June 30, 2005
Todos Santos- Sexy Senorita of Baja Sur: South of the Border Fun!
By Ann Hazard
Todos Santos is growing up, I say to myself as I wander the streets on a balmy afternoon 
in early February of last year. Like a senorita who has just celebrated her quincinera (fifteenth birthday), Baja's hippest town is blossoming into womanhood. Her eclectic expatriate population of artists, writers, musicians and spiritual adventurers number over 600 now. Toss in a few world-class surfers into the mix and things get even livelier.
Because she is more than half Mexican, Todos Santos is joyous, colorful, exotic and more than a little unpredictable. This is patently obvious to me as I tour artists' booths, cruise in an out of galleries, chatting with the artist/owners, watch Mexican folklorico dancers perform in the square and stop in at the Caffé Todos Santos for a Pacifico and a huge serving of their 10th Anniversary Salad. Afterward I meet my husband Terry at the local sports bar, Shut Up Frank's for a Super Bowl party.
It's my first visit to the Todos Santos Festival of the Arts and I'm instantly aware that this is more than just a place to buy paintings, jewelry and handcrafts. A weeklong celebration of Mexican culture that marks its eighth year February 12 to 19, 2005, it offers an in-depth look at Mexican culture and performing arts. Guest speakers host conferences on environmental issues such as sea turtle conservation, family relations, poetry appreciation and Baja history. There are workshops teaching Latin music and folk dancing, along with piano and poetry recitals in the town's historic theater.
Todos Santos is nestled above a large huerta, or palm grove, on Baja's Pacific coast, midway between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, but it's as different from both of these cities 
as they are from each other. Founded in 1724, it was a remote, inaccessible outpost until the late 1800's when its vast aquifer was discovered.
Sugarcane farmers rushed in and it grew into a booming agricultural community overnight. Today, all kinds of tropical fruits and vegetables are grown in and around Todos Santos. Not only has it retained its colonial charm; it's become a bi-cultural oasis-a tropical paradise with a diverse selection of art galleries, shops, a few boutique hotels and several astonishingly good restaurants. You won't find mega-resorts or cruise ships here, and you won't find Burger King or McDonald's either.
Highway 19, which runs from La Paz to Cabo and passes through Todos Santos, was built in 1986, about the time a pair of well-known artists from New Mexico-Charles Stewart and Ezio Columbo-moved to town. This duo played an integral part in perpetrating the American and Canadian artist migration to the area. The surfers came on their own, lured by tales of never-ending, pristine beaches and perfect waves-Endless Summer Baja style. Avid surfer-rocker Chris Isaak recorded a CD (Baja Sessions) here.
The Eagles supposedly sang about the town's landmark hotel-the Hotel California-back in the '70s, but Don Henley vehemently denied any connection. That's a shame. He should stop by next time he's in Cabo. Once he tours the grounds and samples the gourmet fare served in La Coronela Restaurant, I bet he'll change his tune. Hotel California's new owners John and Debbie Stewart have recreated this former eyesore into a one-of-a-kind, one-in-a million architectural, culinary and artistic masterpiece.
What is it about Todos Santos that makes it such a magnet for creativity? According to local painter and gallery owner, Michael Cope, "... the light has the same vortex energy as Santa Fe or the Bermuda Triangle. People talk about the muted colors of the desert. But when you've lived in it, and watched what the light creates, you begin to see in Technicolor." Author Jeanne Cordoba claims it's the air, "which is infinitely lighter than the 
atmosphere in La Paz and seems to melt in your mouth like a fine Parisian pastry." She also maintains that the ground itself speaks in Todos Santos. And that time takes on an ethereal quality. Native Mexicans claim it's in el corazon de la gente-the heart of the people. Others say that the erotic whisper of its tropical breezes attracts those who are "more curious about than afraid of nature's harsh challenges and sensual pleasures."
I fell in love with Todos Santos on my first visit-as a day-tripper from Cabo-back in '95. I come back as often as I can, each time delighting in the changes. I honeymooned here. Since Terry and I moved to the East Cape, directly east of Todos Santos on the Sea of Cortez in 2003, we've made several trips-indulging our mutual passions for beach camping and art, food and culture. It's our home away from home.
Mark your calendar for February 12th to 19th, 2005 and come to the Festival of the Arts this year. Also on February 12th is the third annual Reggae Festival on the beach. March 3rd - 6th mark the dates of the second annual Film Festival-an emerging Mexican version of the Sundance. Stay at least a week - or a month.
If you're in an RV, camp with the surfers and snowbirds at Playa San Pedrito or Playa Cerritos. If you're flying, you can reach Los Cabos from most western gateway cities, rent a car and head up Highway 19. If you're more adventurous, fly into La Paz and rent a car there. Baja California Sur's capital city is an elegant senora - a cultured Mexican metropolis built around a spectacular blue bay.
When you get here, spend a few days at the Hotel California. It's located in the central historical district within walking distance of almost everything. Pick up a copy of El Calendario-the guide to everything Todos Santos. Give yourself a few days to explore the historic district and the galleries.
Eat at every restaurant. Go to Las Palmas beach for a picnic. Take long walks on deserted beaches. Swim in water so clear you can see the fish dart across the tops of the waves. Watch the surfers, the shrimp boats, the whale spouts. Immerse yourself in perfect Pacific sunsets that bounce off the jagged mountains behind you. Paint, even if you've never painted before. The scenery begs to be captured and transported onto canvas. And as always when you travel, get to know the people.
Drive two kilometers northwest of town on a very bad dirt road and spend a few more days at the luxurious Posada La Poza Resort. This resort was created by former Swiss banker, Juerg Wiesendanger and his artist wife, Libusche, you can spend your days by the saltwater pool in a chaise lounge and watching the 70 species of birds as they frolic in the lagoon.
While lazily relaxing at the resort gaze at pelicans soaring above, riding warm air currents and also note the prehistoric-looking frigate birds as they glide along the surface, touch down like seaplanes, snatch up a shrimp, fish or crab and then sail away.
The cries of the birds blending with the pounding of the surf, the steady splash of the pool's waterfall and the hum of dragonfly wings are guaranteed to lull you into siesta-land. After a drink on the sunset deck, dine at the hotel's El Gusto! Restaurant, where you'll be treated to gourmet European-Mexican cuisine.
You will love Todos Santos, and you'll be back ....
Resource Border Crossing:
Todos Santos Website & El Calendario
www.todossantos-baja.com
Visit This Site
Hotel California
www.loscabosguide.com/todossantos/hotelcalifornia.htm
Visit Our Hotel Site
hotelcaliforniareservations@hotmail.com
phone: 011-52-612-145-0525
Posada La Poza
www.lapoza.com
011-52-612-145-0400
Todos Santos Website
www.todossantos.cc
Visit Tourism Site
*above Photos by Terry Hauswirth
SoGoNow.com by: Guest Author on: 7:18 PM
Rockport-Fulton, Texas: A Haven For The Arts
By Shifra Stein & Bob Barrett
At a time when the economy does not bode well for the arts, the coastal community of 
Rockport, Texas seems to be offering shelter from stormy economic seas. This small, but growing area, located just 40 minutes north of Corpus Christi, was recently listed in John Villani's book "The 100 Best Small Art Towns In America".
According to the Texas Commission on the Arts, Rockport has the highest number per-capita of artists compared to any other Texas city, with a colony of 100 professional fine artists living and working in the area.
As the hub of the arts community, the Rockport Center For The Arts has established a focus and direction that has helped put Rockport on the map as a welcoming beacon for painters, potters, poets, and art lovers.
Professional and polished without being pretentious, the Rockport Center For The Arts is a gem of a place, providing a synergy between staff and visitors that's palpable. You can feel the energy of color surround you when you enter the brightly lit entrance leading to the exhibit areas.
Coastal scenes and wildlife are depicted in much of the artwork shown here, since boats, and birds sell very well in this area. Works by regional and national artists are on display, including well-known watercolorists such as Pat Deadman, Michael Atkinson, and others.
There is a member's gallery, that offers the work of local artists, and juried shows such as 
the recent "Vitritied Clay International" show that featured works by noted ceramics artists. The center also acts as the host for performing arts events, a writer's group, weaver's guild, and international cooking group.
Incorporated in 1967, The Rockport Center For The Arts was organized in the beginning without any real notion that it would turn out to be so popular.
"The art center is not made up of smaller splinter groups" explains Mary Lucille Jackson, the art center's Executive Director. "Instead, it is one big organization that does it all. "We can go from brainstorming to action in a short period of time. This gives us a lot of creative freedom and lets us serve our member artists well. We like to stretch their limits by bringing in other artists from around the world to share their techniques and visions with them."
According to Ms. Jackson, the art center's long-range goal is to improve and expand its offerings, eventually becoming an ongoing venue for the performing arts, as well as providing exhibits and art education for adults and children. Classes range from beginning watercolor and acrylic workshops, to oil painting, ceramics, basketry, and weaving. Included in this mix are programs for youngsters and classes for winter snowbirds who flock here in great numbers in January and February.
"The major industry in this area is tourism," says Ms. Jackson. "And we're a major contributor to that. Part of our goal is to attract people to the destination through the arts."
More fine art can be seen in Rockport's downtown gallery community, crowded together in and around the main drag of Austin Street. At Estelle Stair Gallery, the wooden floors and tall ceilings add a touch of class to what has become a well-known showcase for south Texas coastal artists. Featured artists change regularly here, and there are always new paintings, sculpture, and pottery on display and there's an excellent espresso coffee bar here to boot.
Just footsteps away is the St. Charles Art Gallery, where work by contemporary local, national and international artists is showcased.
WHO TO CONTACT: For more information:
Rockport Center For The Arts,
902 Navigation Circle, Rockport Texas, 78382,
(361)729-5519.
www.rockportartcenter.org
Or contact:
The Rockport-Fulton Chamber of Commerce
at 800-242-0071;
www.rockport-fulton.org
WHERE TO STAY:There are many listings for places to stay through the Rockport-Fulton Chamber of Commerce website at www.fockport-fulton.org Below are a couple of best bets for artists, families and older adults.
CRANE HOUSE NATURE RETREAT.
www.cranehouseretreat.comThis privately owned nature preserve is a one of a kind find. The bed and breakfast borders the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge and a perfect place for artists, writers, birders, and photographers to relax and enjoy the natural setting. The upscale bungalow offers two bedrooms and a large screened in porch from which to view the wildlife. See the website for more information.
LAGUNA REEF.
www.lagunareef.com
Just across the street from Aransas Bay, the pet-friendly hotel caters to winter Texans and families coming for summer and winter getaways. It features motel rooms along with one and two-bedroom suites with kitchens that are very nice. Daily seasonal activities free coffee all day long, plus continental breakfast is included in the stay. Check the website for more information.
Several other galleries are open to visit in and around the Rockport area and you can see what is available by checking out the area Rockport Guide, available online at
www.rockportguide.com
SoGoNow.com by: Shifra Stein on: 6:54 PM
June 29, 2005
The Warmth of Curacao
Not far from the bustling, candy colored downtown of Willemstad, the capitol of Curacao, the Avila Beach Hotel, once the mansion of the island's governor and also refuge to Simon 
Bolivar, the liberator of Venezuela, sits on the sands of the Caribbean Sea. For more than 200 years, the
Tone Moller was six months old when her family moved from nearby Aruba to
Moller left the island at 18, spending a year at the Sorbonne in
"I lived in the
But though she had glamorous jobs in
"I missed the warmth and I don't mean the weather," she says. "I love all that the island has to offer including scuba diving, flying and swimming with the dolphins."
So when her father, Nic Moller, asked her to return home and take over his hotel in 1990 she quickly said yes.
Becoming the general manager of the 
structure and also the restoration of the Octagon, a two story building with a shingled cupola that housed Simon Bolivar and his two sisters in 1812. Another historic touch are two old trees-a Royal Poinciana Tree, known locally as Flamboyant, which sits on the outer terrace of the hotel's open-air restaurant and a large Mesquite tree or Indiu.
The
Royalty has always stayed at the 
restaurant at the Avila (which features both continental cuisine and island specialties such as Keshi Yena, a baked Edam cheese stuffed with meat), as mix with those who have titles. It's this style that creates the ambience of the hotel, that of a great feeling of old world sophistication and beachfront informality.
"We want everyone to feel at home," says Moller. Music helps make people comfortable 
and at the Belle Terrace there is often a live steel-band or Mariachis music.
Music lovers can also visit the
For more information, visit www.avilahotel.com
SoGoNow.com by: Jane Ammeson on: 10:17 PM
Punalu'u Black Sand Beach- Big Island
A beach of black sand, a beautiful fishing pond surrounded by coconut trees and huge turtles regularly coming up on the beach for a rest, this must be Punalu'u Beach on the Big Island.
The main reason I am writing this article is because it is a request from the Precious Jewel. The Precious Jewel’s name was Grandma in the States but now that she has purchased a home in
This is the most easily accessible black sand beach on the
Most days turtles are on the beach or in the water if you go snorkeling. Stay 15 feet away from the turtles they are protected by state law. The water can be cold and choppy here. Camping is allowed on the beach and restrooms and an outdoor shower are available. People fish here and I once saw a tourist catch a huge fish in this location. This is a decent beach to read on as it is quiet but black sand is harder and less comfortable to sit on so my mom always brings a chair when she wants to read on the beach.
A snack bar/curio stand is also located on the beach where usually you can get junk food, t-shirts and other souvenirs. Only one vendor was opened the day we visited, and when the Precious Jewel asked if he had water he responded “No the others have the water but they haven’t shown up today. I’m going to close too because I’m thirsty”. Welcome to the real
SoGoNow.com by: Kellie Archuletta on: 9:29 AM | What do you think? (3)
June 28, 2005
Peacocks, Lilacs, and Scones, oh my!
The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew is one far tube stop off the District Line. The second to last stop on the District line to Richmond to be exact, and almost dauntingly too far. I say almost because when it came to a lovely Sunday, as every beautiful sunny spring day in London should be seized, I couldn't resist the beckoning of greenery. After the long, long, long tube ride, I entered Wonderland. It was like a quaint upstate New York town, except deliciously, wonderfully and completely English. It took me a few minutes to get oriented, as though the tube stop is named Kew 
Gardens, the gardens were nowhere to be seen upon disembarking. Although the price of tickets was a little steeper than expected, the call of the sun-kissed lilacs was too strong. Admission price is seven pounds for concessions, which include students and senior citizens, and for all others not eligible for the reduced rate, it costs ten pounds. Children up to and including sixteen years of age are FREE, and entry after four p.m. is a mere five pounds.
The magic of Kew Gardens lies in the delight of drifting off into different worlds with one's family and friends. Within Kew Gardens one can experience a whole slew of wonderful areas. These include the Lilac Garden, the Orangery, a glasshouse where one can sip tea 
and eat scones with jam and clotted cream they make on the premises, the Pagoda, and the Badger Sett, a life-sized replica of a badger sett for children and for the young at heart. Most astounding for me was the peacock wandering around the grounds, unmindful of the day-goers, possessing a curiosity reserved for small children who don't know any better. Vibrant bushes of rhododendrons abound, waterlilies in small algae ponds, a bonsai house, grassy knolls, small student vegetable plots dot the gardens, and rich fragrances fill the air. I recommend the lilac garden and the Japanese Gateway.
Up now is the Gardens of Glass exhibit by artist Dale Chihuly, in place until January 15, 2006. "It is the first exhibition of its kind to be held in Europe" containing "a spectacular sequence of organically shaped and vibrantly colored glass sculptures." I suggest looking at the website for further helpful information, such as opening times which vary, or if you would like to know more about the various displays and gardens. Kew Gardens also boasts plenty of activities to amuse the kids, brilliantly displayed in the Crawlers and Creepers section of the Gardens.
SoGoNow.com by: Valerie Chin on: 10:40 PM
Bagels 24/7 and City Secrets - Calling all bagel lovers
When thinking of England one would not think of bagels as being part of the national fare. Usually thoughts of England bring to mind ales, really, really good ales of the various sort, pub fare such as bangers and mash, toad in a hole, and kidney pie, and nowadays those new London, slightly seedier kebab joints popping up all over the place. Bagels seem to be more inclusive of the American breakfast; who can resist regaling the past night's fun over a scrumptious Sunday brunch of bagels, cream cheese, lox, capers, and tomatoes. Yep, delicious right about sums it up.
But what America seems to be missing, in my vicinity at least, is a 24-hour bagel store. Flipping through just one of many books on what to do and see in London, I discovered an intriguing description of Brick Lane Beigel Bake, written by writer and editor Dan Fox, in City Secrets: London. It is a great book detailing some of the lesser known sights, a book for those who like to wander off the beaten path at a meandering pace that a sloth would enjoy. Lovingly written, City Secrets is filled with the London that Londoners get to know, such as bookstores, secret gardens, and London institutions such as the Brick Lane Beigel Bake on 159 Brick Lane. City Secrets is a compilation of anecdotes and sights written by writers, journalists, historians, designers and even barristers.
At first read the Beigel Bake seems too good to be true, a place that sells bagels all day and all night long. Wandering up Brick Lane from Mile End, it's a pleasant walk along Bengali restaurants, past the Truman Brewery and vintage shops to 159 Brick Lane, the object of your quest. The nearest tube stop is Shoreditch, though it is only open at certain times. The Aldgate East tube stop on Mile End is a fifteen-minute walk away depending on how slowly you meander. And though the price of the bagel with salmon and cream cheese costs slightly more than listed in City Secrets, at one pound twenty, this concoction is well worth it.
City Secrets: London. Series edited by Robert Kahn, Editor Tim Adams. The Little Bookroom, New York. 2001.
SoGoNow.com by: Valerie Chin on: 8:42 PM
Ten Chimneys
For those of us who don't live a charmed life filled with witty friends whose names grace show marquees, there's always Ten Chimneys and the chance to live that swank sort of life vicariously. Located in the very small town of Genesee Depot in Wisconsin 30 miles southwest of A whiff of that whimsy and elegance is apparent in the recent Lunt and Fontanne biography Design for Living by Margot Peters (Knopf 2003, $30). "We can be brought, my dear Mr. Laemmle, but we can't be bored," Peters says the couple wrote in 1931 in a telegram to the head of Universal Studios turning down an offer for a $975,000 two movie deal-a fortune nowadays but even more so during the Depression. Though the fascinating stars who once moved through the 18 lush rooms of the main house at Ten Chimneys, which was recently designated a National Historic Landmark, only one "When Alfred dies, he must be buried in a grand tomb in his native metropolis. It will become known as the bier that made Channing, who was interviewed by phone, wasn't the only movie or stage star to spend a lot of time at Ten Chimneys even though it was so far away from both Dick Van Patten stayed at the house back in 1947 after being chosen out of 80 actors to perform with the Lunts in O Mistress Mine. In an interesting aside, Van Patten, who is probably best known for his role on Eight is Enough, was chosen by the Lunts over Marlon Brando and Roddy McDowell for the role. "I went back there several years ago with my wife after they were gone," says Van Patten in a phone interview from his home in Noel Coward was also at Ten Chimneys. "He was very sophisticated and very witty and whatever you said he would always come back with a quip-a little sarcastic and his humor was very dry, but a real, true wit," says Van Patten who slept in the Helen Hayes bedroom. "He couldn't just answer a question plain, he would have to say something sarcastically funny." Even picking up guests at the train depot was show time for the Lunts. "Alfred would go to the train station in the truck to meet them with a cocktail shaker of gin," says Sean Malone, acting president, Ten Chimneys Foundation. "And Indeed, Ten Chimneys has numerous levels and staircases, less because they're needed and more because the Lunts, consummate actors, knew that poising on staircases creates a dramatic effect. It is fortunate that Ten Chimneys, which remained in the family until 1995 and then was saved from developers, has almost all the original furniture, art work, artifacts and décor. "There's no museum feel to the place," says Malone. Indeed, there are no ropes or barriers-everything is accessible (though one isn't allowed to wander through on their own-groups numbering no more than ten are taken on the tours by docents who have gone through 14 weeks of training). The Lunts designed most of their rooms themselves and, according to Malone, each one has the feel of a stage set as the couple crafted each room with an amazing attention to detail. "Every room evokes a feeling," says Malone. "That's how they wanted it and that's how we kept it. When we restored the rooms we didn't want it to look like brand new, we wanted it to look like it was lived in by people who loved it. And you can feel that." Channing agrees. "Ten Chimneys is permeated with their emotions," she says. "In some houses you go into, you feel bad vibrations, but with this house you just feel that sense of love." One example of their style and stage smarts is the Flirtation Room, a small cozy room with a Swedish stove, comfortable loveseat, a stylish grandfather clock and six doors. "I just imagine this room as a set from a French farce," says Malone, "with doors for the lovers to leave the room as the spouses walk in." And then there's the dazzling clutter-all artistic and all reflective of the owners' personalities. Delft china, expensive Staffordshire figurines, pre Civil War oil lamps converted to electricity, tinsel prints of 19th century actors in their best roles ("it's the largest in the country," says Malone of this collection), French bottles, a collection of Swedish tile stoves and imported grandfather clocks in pastel colors (no big bulky oak or mahogany clocks for the Lunts) are just part of the enormous amount of items found in the home. "Because that's the way you do it in the theater," says Malone. Channing remembers Alfred rising early to go pick berries and make jam. He was quite a cook specializing in elaborate continental cuisine such as pheasant under glass. "One of my favorite places was to sit by the stove as Alfred cooked," she says. Van Patten remembers that Alfred had ulcers and often couldn't eat the rich foods that he really loved. "When I would get back at night, he'd asked me what I had eaten and I didn't want to tell him it was just hot dogs so I would make up this elaborate dinner that I had had." Ten Chimneys was a working farm with cows, chickens and crops. Alfred hoed the fields, cut brush and drove the tractor. With this exacting attention to detail, it's no wonder that one workman, busy restoring the grand entranceway of the main house long after the Lunts had died, felt someone watching him and turned to find Alfred standing there. "There are spirits here," says Malone who has not seen either Lynn, who died in 1983 at age 95, or Alfred, who died in 1977 at age 84, wandering the halls but has sensed them. It's not hard to imagine that the Lunts, who loved Ten Chimneys so much and poured so much of their creativity into the place might still pay a visit every now and then. It was after all a place that was not only fun but also a refuge for them in times of crisis and sadness. "When Alfred died, George Burns and I were touring and Lynnie called and said Alfred is gone and George who knew them well got on the phone and told her to stay at Ten Chimneys, sit in Alfred's favorite chair and if you miss him too much sleep on his side of the bed," recalls Channing. "This is what he did when Gracie passed away. He said people will tell you to get away, but stay where you feel closest to him. Lynnie later told me that was the best advice she received." Ten Chimneys offers two tours. The full estate tour is $35 per person (in a group of 24 or more that rate goes down to $30) and lasts approximately two hours and includes the Main House, Studio, Cottage and the grounds of the estate. The Main House Tour lasts approximately one and a half hours, costs $28 for both group members and individuals and is designed for those who might have difficulty traversing the full estate. There is For More Information: Call 262-968-4110 or visit www.tenchimneys.org
Milwaukee, Ten Chimneys is the all so glamorous vacation home of Broadway stars Alfred Lunt and Lynn Fontanne who performed on the stages of Broadway and London and almost every where else from the late 1910s until the 1960s. Known as the Lunts, the couple lived a life of high style filled with sophisticated travels, wonderful wardrobes, luxurious surroundings and tremendous wit.
of ten that is related to theater and the arts, are gone, it's almost possible, if you really try, to hear the tinkle of martini glasses clicking in toasts, the laughter and the bon mots of those so famous guests.
"What the 
and rehearsing. "It was a great experience, I was just as in awe of the place then as when I was there at 16."
Though much has been restored to it's former glory very little had to be replaced.
Up the hill from the main house, The Cottage, a red building with white trim that was once a chicken coop, contains traditional Scandinavian folk art canvases that are tacked on the walls. When Alfred, who was doing the decorating, ran out of original canvases but still had wall space he simply painted a set of canvases in the same style. The walls of the entranceway, where he painted designs, still also contain the pencil mark outlines.
considerable walking for both tours including stair climbing and walking on uneven terrain. Comfortable footwear is recommended. Also because tours are limited to ten people per guide, reservations are highly recommended.
SoGoNow.com by: Jane Ammeson on: 4:11 PM
Beach Villages
I often take the roads less traveled, winding, twisting affairs that link small towns and villages, each with its appealing personality. But I've never before followed the shoreline, connecting to small fishing hamlets resting on the sands with almost impenetrable jungle behind-places only accessible by boat.
charm. Located on Bandera Bay considered one of the 25 most beautiful bays in the world, Puerto Vallarta offers not only upscale gourmet dining (the 10th annual Gourmet Festival was held this last November), shopping and nightclubs, it is also renowned for its beautiful beaches. Banderas
But on a sunny, blue sky day, I bypassed the city's beaches and the shopping in the historic district known as Malecon and instead journeyed south on Carretera a Mismaloya, a coastal road that follows the contours of the bay, to Boca de Tomatlan where the Tomatlan River runs into the bay. The harbor here, reached by driving down a steep cobblestone road, is a narrow inlet filled with small fishing craft, palapa covered restaurants and pangas or water taxis.
The road to Boca de Tomatlan, after following the coast, moves inland so the only way p
ast here, besides hiking in, to reach the villages of Las Animas, Quimixto and Las Caletas is by pangas -small, open aluminum boats with powerful outboard motors.
The price of a pangas is cheap and based on destination. It's cheaper to travel to Las Animas, the first beach hamlet and only 10 minutes away from Boca de Tomatlan, than Quimixto (twenty minutes away) and Las Caletas (a half an hour journey by water). Prices in
The three beach villages reached only by pangas are nestled on the white sands of the southern shore of the bay. Behind them soar the mighty Sierra Madres engulfed with rich and dense foliage including banana and palm trees. The sudden rise in elevation produces cascading waterfalls and small pools where hikers and horseback riders can rest and take a swim or go snorkeling.
Each has its own special charm. Yelapa, the largest and furthest away, is frequently 
disparaged by beach purists who say that the village, which specializes in native arts, has become too commercialized now that the population has soared to 2000 and there is electricity, phone service and several streets albeit they dead-end outside the village. But it still fulfills my definition of small and quaint.
Yelapa, which means the gathering place, attracts not only daily and overnight visitors, but also a gathering each month of visitors from
The lack of roads doesn't mean there is no way to explore the thick jungles rambling up the mountainsides. Enterprising villagers in all three hamlets offer horseback riding tours. And there is a path, which follows the one of this area's three rivers that leads uphill connecting Quimixto to Majahuitas, a small cove home to a luxurious, if slightly remote resort. All the beaches in 
is private and does not serve food to non-guests. The walk between the two coves takes about 90 minutes and a guide is needed as the riverbeds merge and then diverge and it would be easy to get lost.
Each of the three towns has an assortment of family run, open-air restaurants that serve the catch of the day. Tuna fish salad takes on a new taste here as all the tuna used is freshly caught. Camarones or giant shrimp are grilled with garlic, butter and spices. Mahi mahi is served with rice and hand made tortillas. In Yalapa, sarandeado--barbecued fish on a stick--is one of the local specialties. There are, of course, margaritas and other beach drinks, but for those inclined to a non-alcoholic and refreshing taste, try the lemonada, freshly squeezed lemons mixed with mineral water and sugar which has a pungent sweet and bitter taste.
Having arranged with our panga driver, Juan Hernandez for a return trip, we board the pangas in late afternoon. The tide, which is going out now, is gentle. Somewhat lethargic from all the sun, I am almost dozing when Hernandez points to a not too distant point. It is a humpback whale arching upwards above the water.
"Tres," says Hernandez, explaining that whales jump three times before diving to the bottom. Sure enough, after the third arch, the whale dives to the bottom, its tail suspended briefly in the air before disappearing.
AeroMexico provides daily service to
SoGoNow.com by: Jane Ammeson on: 3:51 PM | What do you think? (4)
Rum & Coca Cola: Viva Bacardi and San Juan
By Ron Kapon
This was not meant to be a travel story, so let's get the travel facts first, and then we will 
deal with the rum. I had last been in Puerto Rico ten years ago so I was pleased when Bacardi invited a large group of journalists to experience their new visitor's center - Casa Bacardi. American and Jet Blue will get you there as well as other carriers.
San Juan taxis do have meters, but in my four days there, I always was quoted a flat rate. Airport to my hotel on Condado (Wyndham Condado Plaza) - $12.50; Condado to Old San Juan- $13; Condado to Isla Verde (the other grouping of hotels and casinos) - $15.
For the budget conscious the B21 bus goes to Old San Juan and to the Mall of the Americas (largest in the Caribbean), costs 25 cents & stopped right next to my hotel. Don't even think about the bus if you are in a hurry. Their frequency of 20 minutes weekdays and 30 minutes on weekends is a myth, and there is no late-night service.
Tip - Most hotels charge a considerably Internet service through their business center and mucho dinero for even local calls, and skip the mini-bar. Local calls outside are 50 cents, 
and check your cell phone company before leaving the U.S. Mine had no towers in Puerto Rico that matched my phone service. There is an internet café along Ashford Avenue, Condado's main street and it is $3 for up to 20 minutes on high-speed computers. Next door is a Walgreen's where I purchased my soda and snacks at a 500% saving.
San Juan- There are over 1.2 million cruise ship visitors a year with the piers adjacent to the Old San Juan area. From anywhere else on the island a bus or taxi will leave you at the entrance of Old San Juan. Walk, don't drive, and end up at El Morro. The streets are very narrow and traffic jams are very common. They are paved with blue cobblestones, so leave the high heels back at the hotel.
Recommended Restaurants: Parrot Club in OSJ - Puerto Rican Latin fusion cuisine - Try lunch; dinner is packed. Tequila on the roof on the El San Juan Hotel in Isla Verde - Mexican cuisine. Pamela's in the Numero Uno Hotel in Ocean Park- Caribbean food. Passaggio in Isla Verde - Italian. I ate at all the recommended places.
Rum and Bacardi - The Bacardi Rum Distillery at Catano is just across the bay from San 
Juan. You can take the ferry from Pier 2 in Old San Juan and then a taxi to the plant.
Facts - 75% of all Rum sold in the U.S. comes from Puerto Rico and Bacardi has about 50% of the entire Rum market. Other brands include the number two seller, Captain Morgan, Barrilito, DonQ, Castillo (also owned by Bacardi) and Palo Viejo. Puerto Rican Rums must be aged at least one year in charred white oak barrels. Because of the tropical climate, one year of aging in Puerto Rico is like three years in Scotland.
In 1493, on his second voyage, Christopher Columbus picked up sugar cane and brought it to the Caribbean. Juan Ponce de Leon planted sugarcane in the 1500's. Rumbiullion was its original name in 1650 that was shortened to Rum. George Washington toasted his troops with Rum. Paul Revere kept warm during his midnight ride with Rum and General Dwight David Eisenhower celebrated the Allied victory in World War II with Rum. Do you see a pattern here?
The Pina Colada, Puerto Rico's most popular Rum drink was created in San Juan in 1954 at the Caribe Hilton Hotel. The bartender came up with the ingenious idea of mixing Rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and ice, all in a blender. Other popular drinks include: The Mojito with light Rum, lime wedges, mint leaves, sugar and soda water, crushed ice all shaken. We must not forget the ever popular Rum and Coke.
Casa Bacardi reopened in April 2003 after extensive upgrading. The Visitors Center seamlessly blends contemporary architecture and modern technology with a century and a half of heritage and tradition. Each room is an impressive, full sensory experience. Visitors using handheld audio guides, in Spanish and English, learn through sight, sound, touch, smell and taste the Bacardi experience. Casa Bacardi is now the number two attraction in Puerto Rico, after Old San Juan. They expect 250,000 to 300,000 visitors a year.
In 1862 the founder, Don Facundo Bacardi Masso began distilling Rum in Santiago de Cuba. Visitors begin their experience by entering a replica of a mid - 19th Century courtyard with the Bacardi Bat fountain. The bat became a good luck symbol when Don Facundo's wife noticed fruit bats inside the first distillery. They symbolize good health, fortune and family unity. The Bat Theatre shows a 10 minute film of the history of the family from its humble beginnings to today where Bacardi is the Number one premium distilled spirit brand in the world.
There is a re-creation of the first Bacardi distillery, an office representing the Cuban headquarters, containing family portraits and documents. Step inside an interactive blending tank and learn about the art of creating premium rum. There is a series of nosing booths built into oversized rum barrels. Continue your journey through a re-creation of the companies 1930's art deco bar. A live bartender explains the different Bacardi products and how to make the original Cuba Libra, Mojito and Daiquiri.
Finally, you will travel through a timeline of the advertising and history of Bacardi. There are screens where you can send an e-video postcard from the nightclub-like spirits room. Visitors will be taken by tram around the distillery and enjoy two complimentary Bacardi cocktails as they relax overlooking San Juan Bay or shop in the gift store.
Bacardi contributes over $250 million in tax revenue to Puerto Rico mainly through the excise tax rebate program. This makes Bacardi Puerto Rico's largest corporate contributor to its economic growth. Our group had the opportunity to taste all the Bacardi Rums: light, golden, extra, reserve (last two are currently not available in the U.S.) and Bacardi 8, sipping rum and my favorite.
When I asked why there were no older rums produced, it was explained that, in the tropics, the climate causes huge evaporation of the distillate. If the rum was left to age for 15 to 20 years, the casks would be completely empty - and that would be a shame.
If you Go:
Bacardi Tours - Monday-Saturday – 8:30AM - 4:30PM
Info- (787) 788- 8400
www.bacardi.com .
Tourist Information - Consumer Hotline
(800) 866-7827 (USA)
www.puertorico.com
At the San Juan airport - (800) 866-05829
Old San Juan- (787) 722-1709- Next to Pier 1
SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 3:16 PM
June 25, 2005
Manuka Bay- Big Island
A desolate tropical beach alone with my husband, we must be on
If you have a 4 wheel drive vehicle you can experience a beautiful, deserted beach on the
Once we left Highway 11 it took us just under an hour to hit the beach. It is only 5 miles from the highway but the road is rough. Surprisingly, my husband’s cell phone worked on the bay.
The first 2 miles of the road is in an Ohia, and Kukui Nut forest. These are scraggly trees; it reminded me of the forest in the Wizard of Oz, right before Dorothy gets to the evil trees surrounding the Wicked Witch’s house. The next 2 miles are lava rock, and more lava rock, at one point it was black at least a mile in any direction you looked from the truck.
The last mile you can see the bay and a tropical forest. This is a Kupika (a forest that lava missed).
The beach is covered with large pieces of coral and black lava rock; in the places where the beach is sandy it is a salt and pepper beach (black and white sand).
My husband spied a Miloli’i fishing boat off the coast. We also discovered drilled out holes for large fishing poles in the lava rock and some 20 pound fishing line. I wouldn’t swim here, the water is choppy and rough and the rocks are sharp.
The coast was wild with two 25 foot deep blow holes and an inlet where the sea makes explosive noises as it crashes against the black lava rock. The water is so turbulent in this spot that it is a sky blue and frothy white.
This is an excellent beach to relax, have a picnic, and watch the sunset.
On our way
home
we saw two trucks on
the road. We asked if they needed help. A nice gentleman said to me “Son guys fishing broke da car”. Luckily for me my husband speaks fluent pigeon and translated. Apparently, this man’s son and his friends went fishing, and the truck broke down. The father was in the process of repairing the truck.
To get to
SoGoNow.com by: Kellie Archuletta on: 12:18 AM | What do you think? (2)
June 24, 2005
Traveling the Canadian Rockies in Style: Scenery, Service and Savory Cuisine
By Fyllis Hockman
It has all the markings of a five-star hotel - impeccable service, remarkable attention to detail, gourmet food and presentation, incomparable views - but this vacation getaway is hurtling across the Canadian Rockies on train tracks. Welcome aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, traveling from Vancouver to Banff/Lake Louise and trying very hard to live up to its self-proclaimed designation as "the most spectacular train trip in the world." I'll go with certainly one of.
There I was, comfortably seated, head back, Bloody Mary in hand, staring through dome-high windows at scenery changing from farmland to lake country, bountiful forests to semi-arid land, deep ravines to towering mountains. I knew then that the books I had brought along for entertainment would never be opened.
The two attendants servicing our car, one of about 20 snaking through the countryside, start the first morning off with Champagne and OJ, setting the bar (so to speak) for the rest of the journey. As we toast to scenic vistas and making new friends, attendant Ron proffers Nicorette gum to smokers to ease the trauma of having to do without all day. First impressive attention to detail.
The attendants on board provide colorful and informative commentary during the two-day daylight journey (there's an overnight stay midway through in Kamloops) on the history, ecology, wildlife and significance of what you're seeing, most of which, according to Ron, is actually factual. Interpersonal bantering and occasional bad jokes add to the local color.
Lisa Wood and John Bailey from Worcester, England were "very impressed with the knowledge of the attendants. We tried to stump the commentators, but haven't been able to." Added Lisa: "There's something so romantic about the railway - it held the country together."
Which was literally true of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, upon whose tracks the Rocky Mountaineer rode. CPR, Canada's first transcontinental railroad, was completed in late 1885. But the motivation to build it impacted our country as well.
When Canada became independent in 1867, it consisted of Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To ensure that what remained of the territory did not become part of the U.S., then Prime Minister John Macdonald proposed a railroad connecting the continent. That persuaded potentially fickle British Columbia to join the confederation in 1871 - thereby "holding" the country together.
Let's be very clear. Meals are important on the Rocky Mountaineer, especially if you're in the upgraded Gold Leaf service (more on that later). Breakfast and lunch, served in the dining car, are accompanied by fine linens and fresh flowers.
The choice of gourmet offerings, as appealing to the eye as the scenery out the window, might include a baked wild British Columbia salmon glazed with maple and ginseng (a local delicacy) served on corn meal polenta, accompanied by maple pickled veggies and organic greens in a delicate strawberry vinaigrette.
Or perhaps a slow roasted Alberta bison glazed with maple and ginseng (a local delicacy), finished of by a brownie-mountain dessert surrounded by a mango sauce river, with a chocolate-shaped train traveling wafer-thin tracks. How's that for imagery? And if the ginseng affords an opportunity to eat to your health, the fine wine selections allow you to drink to it, as well.
"I've traveled all over and never encountered this level of service before," gushed Carl Ricketts from New Orleans. "From the pre-planning to all the explanations to the transport at Kamloops -- all so smoothly maneuvered from beginning to end. Not to mention the quality of the food and its presentation."
During periodic "photo ops," the train slows to "Kodak speed" - although, I suspect, digital cameras are making that particular reference more and more obsolete. With a wildlife spotting, the word travels the length of the train, and you hope the bison, bear, elk, big-horn sheep or eagle is still there by the time your car arrives at the area of sighting.
The most spectacular scenery reveals itself during the second day. In the middle of lunch, the loudspeaker announced "photo op on the right"; conversation and chewing stopped as everyone lurched to one side to catch a glimpse of your everyday rushing rivulet prancing over rocks though a valley of wildflowers beneath a backdrop of mountains. Oh, that again. A chorus of oohs and ahhs ensued before chomping commenced once again.
Be sure to visit the vestibule between railcars to get a much more exquisite -- and personal-- view of the scenic drama unfolding in front of you. The rumbling of the train, the crispness of the air, the immediacy of the mountains make for a far more tangible immersion in the experience.
As Alison Michaelson, from the Channel Islands in England, observed from her vestibule vantage point: "All the senses come together. I can feel the train moving below, listen to the rush of movement and feel the wind against my cheek. It is so much more exciting than sitting at my seat."
The on-board newspaper - printed in English, French, Japanese and German - provides a fascinating alternative should the views outside the windows start seeming redundant. Full of maps, routes, history, anecdotes, photo suggestions and more, it's like a Rocky Mountaineer primer that parallels the trip - and the history of the railways - mile by mile.
Whether you're reading - or talking or watching - if it's more than two hours since you last ate, chances are good you'll be offered some wine and cheese, or perhaps some home-made cookies to tide you over until the next meal. Attention-to-detail option #327.
Such is one of the differences between the Gold Leaf Service and the less-pricey Red Leaf version: there, the cookies are packaged. But there are other more significant differences. The visual expanse of the dome car is replaced with large side windows that stop short of reaching overhead.
The gourmet meals `a table are relegated instead to continental breakfast and a pair of luncheon entrée choices served at your seat. And the open bar now costs $6 a drink. However, the on-going commentary stays the same, and the views outside the windows remain constant for both tiers of service.
And attention-to-detail #328? When stopping at a hotel in Kamloops for the night, passengers receive their keys to the rooms before disembarking so they don't have to wait on line to check in. And the luggage awaits them in their room. Would that be #328 AND 329?
"The usual expectations of a train is that it takes you from Point A to Point B," says Guest Services Manager, Shauna Hetherington, who's been traveling the rails for 6 years. "What happens in between is the adventure. It's not only the constantly changing views that bring excitement."
And then she proceeds to tell the story of the past summer when the train all of a sudden slowed down, "because of all things" there was a bull on the tracks, slowly making its way westward. Given little choice, the train followed for 20 minutes. "The crew used Super Soakers to try to move it out of the way, and then we chased it with mops and brooms."
Apparently, the bull protested but it remained unmoved -- literally. When the trainsfolk got too pushy, the bull reared up - causing the employees to drop everything and make a quick retreat. The bull finally wearied of toying with the train, and wandered away under its own steam, so to speak. Nine-hundred passengers waved goodbye. Not too many of them are going to forget their trip aboard the Rocky Mountaineer!
Okay, I didn't see any bulls along the way - or any other wildlife, for that matter - but I did see turquoise glacial waters, waterfalls tumbling down mountainsides, snow-capped peaks rising overhead, my head straining skyward to view them, towering trees in greens and reds and yellows, and rivers and ravines and ravishing vistas.
And I dined as well as at a Michelin 4-Star restaurant, conversed with interesting co-travelers from around the world, and was entertained and educated for two-days as if attending something between a history seminar and a comedy club. As I said, welcome aboard the Rocky Mountaineer.
If You Go Trip Planner
Prices for the 2-day train trip from Vancouver to Banff or Jasper, which runs mid-April to mid-October, including overnight accommodations, are $429-$569, per person, Red Leaf and $869-$1119, Gold Leaf, depending upon time of year; Vancouver to Calgary, $489-$629, Red Leaf and $959-$1209, Gold Leaf. Options for sightseeing at both ends are also available.
Rocky Mountaineer Vacations also offers a wide variety of rail, rail and motorcoach and non-rail packages from 3 nights/4 days to 11 nights/12 days throughout Canada, including luxury accommodations and extensive sightseeing opportunities in the cities visited. Or choose from grizzly viewing, kayak/canoeing, winecountry tours, ranch stays, resort options and other travel adventures.
For more information contact Rocky Mountaineer Vacations at
800/665-7245 or
Visit Our Mountaineer Site
www.rockymountaineer.com
SoGoNow.com by: Guest Author on: 8:31 PM
Samba South of the Border: Rio is Back
moving, as is the sway of the people passing by - Beautiful People, South Beach Miami? No. Rio de Janeiro, on the come-back. Pack a fake Rolex or plated necklace and head where this side of the world learned to enjoy life. Your money goes far and you can too. It's not Carnival and that's important; prices are great and the atmosphere is also. Bad reputations lead to tomorrow's travel dreams and bargains. One sure sign was the travel industry people I ran into at the well-appointed bar at the Rio Atlantico Hotel. Richard Lewis, Managing Director of Summit Hotels, was checking the Atlantico as a new member. Al Merscen, managing partner of Myriad Travel, gave the best explanation of Rio's regeneration; "Rio wanted to straighten out its problems, before crowing ... now it can".
I am happy to report that since my last visit in 1996, Rio is alive and well.
Like a Fish in Water:
The biggest unifying feature for Cariocas (as Rio's residents are known) is wide sandy beaches. In fact a 60-mile stretch of hedonistic pleasure is yours for the asking. Sunning, swimming, flirting or just plain relaxing is a daily event oceanside. There is a beach that caters to everyone. Copacabana and Ipanema are just two that are world famous. Some of the others such as Praia do Diabo (Devil's Beach) or the far-flung Grumari offer solitude and specialized activities.
I ended up staying on Copacabana. Its wide swath and endless people-watching suited me perfectly. With its kiosks and beach soccer arenas the area was busy. It is also base for many good restaurants and hotels. Walking to Ipanema is easy and worthwhile. It is also where the, "Girl From" was found. A large black and white tile walkway (calcadoa) provides a great place to people-watch.
Ipanema is also memorable for restaurants and bars. It is, in fact, the spot where Jobim wrote the Girl song at Garota de Ipanema. Still a great place to lift a cool one. The beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema are lit at night making them much safer than in years past. Needless to say if seaside is your Rio goal, it's easily done.
After The Lotion:
Even the hard-core sun worshipper will agree that Rio is more than sand and sea. It has culture and spirit. Rich or poor, gay or straight, Cariocas have their own style. Love, lust, romance, energy and music ooze from their very pores. The best display can be found at
Rio's Baixos (By-shows) South Side streets. Areas where cafes, restaurants and dance clubs all center. In Ipanema, Baixo Quiteria on Rua Maria, between Visconde de Piraja and Prudente de Morias is a good bet. Pre-dinner and apre beach usually center around chope (beer) or Caiparianha, a drink made of cachaca sugar cane rum and lemon juice. My favorite choice for that was Academia De Cachaca. There are over 500 varieties of the poison (er, potion) served. Careful, they are all potent!
Dinning:
Whether fancy or at a botequin, street bar, usually provides an eclectic culinary treat. Surprisingly meat, all you can eat rodizos, Brazilian Barbecue, is offered more than fish but the choice of fruits and vegetables is astounding. Just remember that eating is far later than in the U.S. and an early bird dinner unthinkable!
Meet and greet:
If you find yourself still standing and even craving more, Rio has one more bullet in its arsenal besides the countless sidewalk bars and cafes. The gafiera or samba parlors are a great place to meet locals and test your dance skills. Be forewarned - Brazilians move like no others. Salsa, lambada and other ballroom beats are all part of the scene.
All too soon the sun rises and Cariocas (Rio residents) slowly head home after stopping for coffee and sweets - usually beachside. Fresh coconut milk is available, and I was told that it gives one energy. Alert! - it's needed because the whole routine starts again that afternoon!
What Else:
Save your sympathy for the Cariocas heading off to work. You too will have a very busy
day. Rio's got great things to see and places to explore. In the hopes that fresh coconut milk gives you energy, I have compiled my top 10 Rio sites.Head up to Corcovado and see what lies ahead. This is the mountain with the big Christ statue. Take the small train up and double your pleasure. It is truly one of the world's best city views. In fact its only rival is next!
Sugarloaf is reached by two cable cars and not for those with fear of heights. From the top the beach views are perfect. As with Corcovado try to time your visit with clear skies.
Tijuca Forest has the distinction of being one the world's largest urban parks. It was also named a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995.The area was originally used for coffee plantations and is very diverse. It is filled with rain forest, waterfalls and tropical trees bearing fruits.
Rio's Museum of Modern Art (MAM) was founded in 1948 and houses collections by artists such as Rodin and Brancusi. It stands in the heart of Flamengo Park with gardens designed by Burle Marx.
Jardim Batanico is home to 2,600 species of plant life. Yes, Rio has abundant natural endowments. Toucans, Tanagers and Marmosets can be found just hanging out. Prince Regent D. Joao of Portugal created the gardens in 1808.
Santa Teresa District is just south of the city center and is a neighborhood that best exemplifies past Rio. It is craft shops and old trolleys. Have lunch in a small café. You deserve it! Afterward, go to the Museum Chacera de Coy (Farm in the Sky). Once home to an eccentric arts patron, it is now home to pieces by Matisse, Monet and Modigliani.
The National Museum of Fine Arts is downtown and housed in an impressive French Renaissance style building. If Dali isn't your style, check the amazing African collection.
You are downtown and deserve a break ... again. The Confeitaria Colombo is perfect. Since 1894 it has served the well-heeled with food, tea and coffee. The Belgian crystal mirrors and old style service is a must.
Praca Quinze has everything; historic landmarks such as Tiradentes Palace, Candido Mendes and the Church of Nossa Senhora. There is also an antique fair on Saturdays.
Overall best site is the old coffee plantation owned by Burle Marx, Brazil's Renaissance man. A lion of the arts community. He truly painted Rio with plants. His residence was an ex banana plantation and is open for scheduled visits. The artwork and agriculture is sublime. The home is south of Rio and can be reached by mini bus from Copacabana Beach.
More Please:
Rio's offerings are seemingly endless. That thought came to me as I was dangling from a paraglider high above the city. The scenery below alternated from rainforest, skyscraper, favela (Rio's slums)) to ocean and beach. After the soft landing on Pepino Beach I was already thinking about doing it again. Rio is just that kind of place. A place where anything can happen.
Directory:
Rio is a city that has countless activities for the visitors. The best site to virtually tour the city before arriving is http://www.ipanema.com/citytour/ipanema
Everything from getting a visa to buying a newspaper is covered.
Some sites for individual places mentioned:
Tijuca Forest
www.destinationrio.com/todo/tij.htm
Corcavado
www.destinationrio.com/todo/corc
Botanical Gardens
www.destinationrio.com/todo/bot.
Downtown Sites
www.destinationrio.com/todo/urt.htm
Burle Marx http://translate.google.com/translate
Hang Gliding http://rioadventuretours.com/Hang_Gliding
Best Bars www.worldsbestbars.com/city/RiodeJaneiro/AcademiadaCachaca.asp
Info from US citizens living in Rio
www.expats.com.br/noticias.php?cod=2189
Brazilian food
www.destinationrio.com/todo/rest.htm
SoGoNow.com by: Kent St. John on: 4:30 PM
Lisbon: The City of Discovery
By Ron Kapon
Webster's Dictionary defines Discovery as-"Disclosing or bringing to light; revealing or making known; a finding out or bringing to sight or knowledge". Since I had not been to Lisbon for 10 years, I needed a little "knowledge" and found it at the Portuguese National Tourist Office- 590 Fifth Ave- 4 Floor- NYC 10036- 1-800-Portugal- www.portugal.org. The " bringing to light " was supplied by my TAP-Air Portugal flight from JFK. Just as the sunlight engulfed the plane's cabin, we landed, a mere 6-1/2 hour flight. A short 20-minute taxi ride and I was at the centrally located Hotel Lisboa Plaza, just off Avenida da Liberdade, the major shopping and promenading street in town, and only a few blocks from the metro and railroad station. The sights of Lisbon waited.
The first stop in the search for discovery should be the Lisboa Welcome Center at Praca do Comercio, near the port and Tagus River. www.alt-turismolisboa.pt. This very large space contains tourism information for the city, accommodations, show tickets, guide books to museums, shopping and restaurants. You can purchase the three special Lisboa cards there. 1- Lisboa Card for free access to public transportation and free or discounted admission to over 50 museums and sites. The cost is about $11.25 per adult for 24 hours and $4.50 per child. 2- Lisboa restaurant Card gives you discounts at more than 40 restaurants for a 72-hour period. The cost is $6 per person, or $10.50 for a family with 2 children. 3- Lisboa Shopping Card gives you up to a 20% discount at over 200 shops. The cost is $3 for 24 hours. The Welcome Center also has an exhibition of traditional Portuguese handicraft and art, plus an auditorium, café, grocery store and a fashion and design shop with clothes and decorative objects for sale. One of Lisbon's top restaurants Terreiro do Paco is located here.
The Lisboa Card allowed me to see the entire city in less than a day. Lisbon is built on 7 hills, so up I rode to St. George's Church for a panoramic view of the city. Alfama is the oldest part of the city with small houses, tiled panels and fountains and is perfect for walking. The center of the city is Rossio Square where the train station is located. Marques de Pombal Square is another large meeting place with cafes and small shops.
It was back into the Metro system to the Belem area and the Belem Cultural Center whose conference center is also used for exhibits and performing arts. Everything in this area is reachable by walking starting with the Tower of Belem, a 16th Century guardian of the river and a UNESCO World Heritage Building. The Belem Palace is the official residence of the President of the Republic. The nearby Jeronimos Monastery was built in the beginning of the 16th century and is the burial site for Vasco da Gama; the monastery is another UNESCO World Heritage Building. Across the road and right beside the Tagus River is the Monument to the Discoveries built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th Anniversary of Henry The Navigator's explorations. During the 15th & 16th Centuries Portugal had a huge overseas empire. Next to the monument is a map of the world with all their former colonies noted. In the same Belem area is the Coach Museum with uniforms and coaches of the royal family in an 18th Century riding ring.
Having spent much of the early afternoon in the Belem area, I did not get to the following three museums, but my guide highly recommended them. The National Art Museum has the finest collection of Portuguese art from the Middle Ages to the 19th Century. The National Tile Museum shows the art of the tile over the past five centuries and is housed in the cloisters of a 16th Century convent. The Fado House & Portuguese Guitar Museum is self- explanatory and during my last night in Lisbon, I had an opportunity to listen to Fado at a local club.
It was late in the day when I arrived at the other side of town at National Park, the site of the 1998 Expo and World's Fair. The area is being converted to housing, but most of the buildings have been retained and upgraded. Vasco da Gama Tower is the observation platform overlooking the whole park. There is a chair lift that transcends the entire park. The Oceanarium is Europe's largest aquarium. The Atlantic Pavilion can hold up to 16,000 people for sporting events or concerts. There is a live interactive Science Center and the country's biggest bowling center. I decided to take the Lisbon by Water route on the River Tagus that runs between the National Park and the Belem area. Again, my Lisboa Card was used, as well as the Metro return to my hotel. I had spent 12 hours touring and rested for my trip the next day.
As I mentioned, my hotel was within walking distance of the railroad station. In less than an hour I was in Sintra, again using my Lisboa Card. The whole area is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My first stop was the Pena National Palace on top of a mountain. The brave ones walked up; I choose the bus. This 19th Century romantic palace was built in the revivalist style with artwork and souvenirs of royalty abounding. The Sintra National Palace is the former royal palace with Moorish, Gothic and Manueline architecture style. The conical chimneys visible on the outside of the building are the most photographed sights of Sintra. They are still part of the kitchen, which is used, even today, for banquets. The Queluz National Palace is an 18th Century palace with spacious gardens filled