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The Gentle Breezes of Belize
By Christine Germyn
Welcome to Belize, Mother Nature's best kept Central American secret. Wedged between Mexico and Guatemala, Belize comprises a landmass no larger than the state of Massachusetts – 280km (174 miles) long, and 109 km (68 miles) wide at its broadest point. It boasts the greatest variety of landscapes, people, flora, and fauna of any country of its size in the world.
Belize has it all from luxury resorts to small ship cruising to deep jungle adventure where you can explore the ancient mysterious ruins of the Mayan civilization which flourished over 900 years ago. You also have the opportunity to experience the deep wonders of the world's second largest barrier reef known for its world-class diving and snorkeling. There is a little bit of everything for everyone.
While covering most of Belize's highlights in twenty one days, my journey began while boarding a ten seated twin engine plane with Maya Island Air. This all-day service to and from the mainland provides transportation to various island destinations. While waiting to board my plane, the pilot asked me if I would like to sit in the co-pilot's seat, I said, "Sure". I thought he was kidding, well he wasn't. Being first in line, I followed the isle heading towards the"hot seat" and found an extra steering wheel. I thought to myself, I sure hope the pilot doesn't ask me to fly or else we're in big trouble!
This flight took me to the Northern part of Belize and Ambergris Caye which is located in the North near Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. Ambergris Caye is the largest of the country's 200 offshore islands. Travel time from Belize International Airport is a short fifteen minute island-hop.
Preparing for takeoff, I buckled up and waited for the scenic-ride, this was absolutely thrilling. From the air, I took in the inspiring view of shimmering turquoise waters and endless coral of the Barrier Reef. While enjoying my front seat view, I noticed the steering wheel moving side to side and as I looked over to the pilot I pointed at the untouched steering wheel, he smiled. I guess I better not distract him or else I will have to learn how to fly immediately.
Fifteen minutes of pure excitement went by quickly and now straight ahead was the shortest airstrip I had ever seen. A brief flash back occurred which reminded me of one of the scenes from "Indiana Jones" except this was a smooth ride. Once cleared to exit, I pulled my luggage from the cargo hold, gave the propeller a wide berth and met my ride. My driver and I climbed into a golf cart. Enroute to my overnight accommodation. Golf carts are the primary means of transportation, and are available to rent, as cars and trucks are limited, but there are plenty of taxis to hire. Every street, and every avenue, is a "sandy" lane, as sand replaces asphalt. Caution: It can be dusty at times. While driving along the sandy road I noticed most locals don't wear shoes as they go barefoot to avoid having sand in their shoes.
While driving along this sandy road we pass along Reef Drive sometimes called Front Street which is the main road. The islands only town, the Seaside Village of San Pedro, is located in the Southern end of the island. There is an assortment of tiki bars, small hotels, guest houses, boutiques, dive stores, and an array of eateries.
Continuing towards the South, two miles from the commuter airport we arrive at the Victoria House. This premier luxury resort has 30 rooms featuring thatched-roof casitas, plantation style suites/rooms, and private houses all in a cheery tropical setting. This seaside resort offers several hundred feet of beautiful white sandy beach front, fringed with many coconut palms, lush scented gardens, topped off with Belize's famous barrier reef that lies within sight off shore.
Once I settled in my charming room, I took advantage of the outdoor pool for a cool dip followed by a long beach walk and I then freshened up for dinner. As the night was warm, I dined outside on the patio savoring my delicious traditional Belizean entrée consisting of stewed chicken, beans, rice, plantains, and coleslaw. .This intimate evening was absolutely scenic as I dined in elegance under the stars.
After a peaceful night's sleep, I was eager to take in the sunrise; I walked along the beach with not a sole around in this tranquil setting except me. Within minutes the sun started to rise over the ocean with a striking orange reflection of true beauty. This was my perfect photo opportunity. I then stretched in a hammock closing my eyes listening to soft gentle breezes sweeping through the swaying coconut palms while breathing in the fresh sea air. I then nodded off dreaming of my next visit to the Victoria House, this time a longer stay as one evening is not enough.
Departing Ambergris Caye the following morning with Mayan Island Air I flew to the Municipal Airport in Belize City, a twenty five minute flight away. Upon arrival, I was met by my driver Jose who brought me to the Western part of Belize in the Cayo district. Cayo is the largest and most diverse district of Belize, encompassing over 2,000 square miles it begins with green rolling hills in the North, and gradually builds to the crest of the Maya Mountains in the South.
Jose was taking me to The Lodge at Chaa Creek a five star Jungle Resort and Spa which is a ninety minute drive along the Western highway. After this scenic drive we arrive at Chaa Creek Lodge situated on 330 acres of lush rainforest. The resort offers twenty one palm-thatched rooms including two luxury treetop suites overlooking the Macal River and the famous tower suite named the "Screamers" which was the first honeymoon suite. Well, I was surprised as my room for the evening was the "Screamers". Why is it called this? You can well imagine anything goes especially on your honeymoon night except I wasn't celebrating my honeymoon. The "Screamers" suite is built on top of a water tank in a circular shape surrounded with windows, a large palm-thatched roof along with a darling interior.
Later on in the day, I strolled along a lush trail for my Spa service. This oasis of luxury overlooks the spectacular Macal River Valley with a panoramic view of the Maya mountains and the rainforest. Vincent my massue welcomed me with a sarong. I then slipped into my sarong and was escorted to the outdoor gazebo. I had a Coma Massage which is a Japanese/Chinese combination massage. As I lie down on the massage table I inhaled deeply, while closing my eyes listening to the orchestra of birds. I then fell asleep as my body enjoyed ninety minutes of pure relaxation. Vincent's healing touch proved to me that Chaa Creek is definitely an award wining Spa. It was invigorating.
After my enjoyable stay at Chaa Creek Lodge, I headed to the Mopan River Resort located at Benque Viejo del Carmen, situated on the bank of the Mopan River near the Guatemalan boarder.
Mopan River Resort was Belize's first all- inclusive Adventure Resort featuring nine cabanas, three suites with kitchens, and a wedding chapel.
Upon my arrival I was met by Pam and Jay, my lovely hosts followed by a warm welcome drink.
Afterwards, Pam took me to my spacious cabana, which overlooked a well manicured garden, dotted with many coconut palms, sweet scented mango trees and a picturesque river view.
In the early evening, I joined other fellow guests for happy hour as this is the highlight of the day where guests share their daily activities. While listening to other guests, I enjoyed the live marimba music along with an exotic Banana Velvet house cocktail.
After a couple of drinks, the dinner chime begins to ring and we proceed to the dining area which is open seating. I then indulge myself with a delicious home cooked self serve Thai buffet. During dinner, Jay announced the daily adventure tour which was Tikal. This can't be missed!
Up at the crack of dawn, I joined my group for a hearty breakfast followed by my day adventure to Tikal. We were taken across the river on a motorized raft and met by our driver. Then proceeded to the Guatemalan boarder which is a short ride. Once cleared through immigration we continued through Guatemala for the approximate two hour drive to Tikal. Along the way the roads are a bit bumpy but this is soon forgotten as the scenery becomes friendly and locals waive from their homes with beautiful smiles. Part way through the drive the road smoothes out and we climb to a higher altitude viewing unspoiled scenery of green rolling hills. Closer to entering Tikal we drive along the picturesque Lake Peten Itza which means "enchanted waters," this is where most locals come to relax. Not far from the lake we get closer to Tikal which is set deep in the jungle surrounded with endless greenery. Arriving at our destination we enter a long driveway met by security at the gate, here we pay our admission at the booth. I was excited holding my admission ticket as I was about to see the incredible Mayas of Guatemala otherwise referred to as "The Mystery of the Mayas".
There are two options to view Tikal, one is to sightsee on your own and the other is to hire a guide. As Tikal is over fifty square miles I chose to take a guide. My guide was Carlos he explained the ancient Mayan civilization dating back to 900 AD. Mayan culture is recognized through sculptures, carvings and stone replicas symbolizing sacred Maya beliefs. Gray speckled sculptures depict portraits of gods, Maya kings, and even blood-letting rituals including the Maya ball game. A ritualistic game of two teams in which the loosing team was sacrificed for the gods.
Each massive temple is built on the highest point above sea level rising from the depths of the Guatemalan rain forest. Tikal is surrounded with many temples and pyramid structures which were first discovered in 1848. Most of the Tikal temples were used by the Mayans to worship their gods. The Mayas knew that they could be higher than any one else, this is why the temples were built so tall. Also, they had astronomical purposes. Temple III is the newest which was built in 810 AD standing 55 meters high and TempleVI having been the most recent discovery was found in May of 1951. . I had the opportunity to climb Temple IV which is the highest structure rising at 69 meters. I breezed up the strenuous steep wooden staircase to the first platform followed by original limestone steps, moving along with extreme caution to the top platform. Once I reached the top step, this vantage point allowed me to see a twenty mile panoramic view of lush jungle and several temples. To this day, locals are still learning the meanings of these mysterious temples.
As Tikal was a day trip I recommend at least one week enjoying the all-inclusive adventurous package as there is so much to do at Mopan River Resort.
Small ship cruising is another great way to explore Belize's many Cayes and local Island's. American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line is a small cruise ship company offering fun-filled activities for the casual traveler.
I sailed on their Grande Caribe, a vessel having a length of 183 feet and a draft of only 6 1/2 feet. The features of the Grande Caribe include 50 cabins, lounge area, dining room, spacious deck and the only bow ramp in the cruise industry. The bow ramp is a very convenient feature and as a result of the shallow draft allows the vessel to approach the shoreline close enough to let passengers walk ashore.
This brilliant invention was designed by Andrew Jackson Higgins during World War II and used on small landing craft. Mr. Luther Blount owner/operator of American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line was impressed with Mr. Higgins invention. In 1966, Mr. Blount patented the idea and had built his ships with the bow ramp.
Departing Belize City for eleven nights the ship stopped at several Cayes situated along the worlds second largest Barrier Reef followed by visiting small island's. Our fist island stop was Placencia which has the "world's narrowest main street" recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records. The second stop was Punta Gorda which is the last town of Belize situated near the Guatemalan boarder its known as PG. Here there are many locals carrying their backpacks filled with hand made crafts for sale. I sure got carried away.
After having stopped twice in Belize our third stop was Livingston Guatemala which is only accessible by boat located at the mouth of the Rio Dulce. No other cruise line can travel the Rio Dulce except American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line. The Rio Dulce is a jewel in its own as it flows through a magnificent winding gorge between steep limestone cliffs with a backdrop of lush vegetation and cascading waterfalls. I can see why the first Tarzan movie was filmed here as it's so exotic.
This was my first small cruise ship experience. What I enjoyed the most was the relaxed atmosphere, no dress code, no waiting in lines and no added bill at the end of the cruise. American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line offers a set price with each cabin category which includes excursions, meals, and deck activities like hermit crab racing which replaces a casino. This is an absolute hoot!
Cocktails are enjoyed with a BYOB policy. Every night there is a happy hour also a few deck activities including an open bar and live local entertainment which is brought on board. An example of the live entertainment brought on board while in Guatemala, was the Garifuna dancers and Marimba performers
A stewardess will walk through the ship ringing a bell letting you know its time to eat, this originated way back in the Mark Twain era. All vessels in American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line have an open seating dining room policy that allows you the opportunity to meet and dine with different passengers at every meal
The on board Naturalist, Luz a native Belizian educated us on unique wildlife, plant and marine life. We were also introduced to the many wonders of the incredible Barrier Reef. Having Luz on board was a great learning experience finding out Belize's many treasures.
While visiting Livingston Guatemala Yolanda native to Guatemala joined our group to educate us on Guatemala's highlights. I was lucky to share a delightful afternoon with Yolanda as we walked through the village in Livingston. We had met several locals carrying on with their daily tasks including a lady who was carrying fresh corn tortilla mixture in a large pink bowl on top of her head. I was curious to see how fresh corn tortillas were made. So Yolanda asked locals where we could find fresh tortillas. We then experienced fresh hot tortillas off the grill at a local family's home. From here we walked back to the main street of Livingston stopping off at a café savoring fresh coconut milk this was refreshing. Sharing this cultural experience with Yolanda was a remarkable introduction to Livingston.
Cruising with American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line left an appreciation of the culture and history of Belize and Guatemala which will always remain a wonderful memory.
On my last day, I stayed at Kanantik Reef and Jungle Resort located in Southern Belize. This new upscale all-inclusive resort offers 25 thatched – roof cabanas set in a private setting nestled between the lush green forest and sparkling Caribbean Ocean.
This secluded resort is laced with 300 acres of untouched land, with an array of wildlife and a 1,300 foot white-sandy beach. With many activities being offered throughout the day I decided to remain at the resort and experience Kanantik's well deserved service as Kanantik is Mayan for "to take care of". The staff definitely treated me like a queen. While stirring my Pina Colada, I had an opportunity to read my last chapter of my novel while relaxing on a comfy lounge chair overlooking the Caribbean ocean. This felt like a dream. Everything was perfect as I just experienced paradise at its best!
Airlines
Continental files direct from Houston, Texas to Belize International Airport
www.continental.com
Maya Island Air has many daily flights to various destinations within Belize
Toll Free 1-800-225-6732
www.mayaislandair.com
Belize Tourism Board
1-800-624-0686
www.travelbelize.org
Resorts
Victoria House
Reservations 1-800-247-5159
www.victoria-house.com
The Lancaster
While overnighting in Houston, I stayed at Houston's only small luxury boutique hotel located in the heart of downtown close to the theatre district.
Reservations 1-800-231-0336
www.lancaster.com
The Lodge at Chaa Creek
Reservations (501) 92-2037
www.chaacreek.com
Mopan River Resort
Reservations (501) 823-2047
www.mopanriverresort.com
Kanantik Reef and Jungle Resort
Reservations 1-800-965-9689
www.kanantik.com
Small Ship Cruising
American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line
Reservations 1-800-556-7450
www.accl-smallships.com
Tour Operators
Sea and Explore
Thirteen years of customized tours to Belize. Offering air inclusive packages including; luxurious accommodations, personalized itineraries, tailored tours, and water activities. Sea and Explore are the experts on Belize.
Reservations 1-800-345-9786
Discovery Expeditions
Telephone (501) 223-0748
Offering many tours of Belize's highlights such as:
A full day tour to Lamanai Archaeological site located in the east-central part of the Orange Walk District. This tour includes a scenic boat ride up the New River on a breathtaking journey to the ruins of Lamani known as "Submerged Crocodile". Once was the country's largest ceremonial centers for the ancient Maya.
Sunveil Sun wear
1-800-565-0585
www.sunveil.com
To avoid a nasty burn, Sunveil has a variety of SPF sun wear which will block against the damaging sun rays.
