August 31, 2005
Bridge of Dreams
By Peter I. Rose
Several years ago I was cruising on the S.S. Universe Explorer in the western Caribbean. Wearing my "travel writer's" cap, I had the opportunity to spend some time on the bridge with a rather young but quite senior officer, Ricardo Ariaza. He spoke to those of us in the press group about the workings of the ship, its history, and its main mission: carrying some 700 students around the world each fall and spring as the floating campus of the University of Pittsburgh's unique "Semester-at-Sea" program.
Between semesters the ship is used by World Explorer Cruises to ply the waters of the Caribbean in January -- as we were then doing -- and the Alaskan coast in the summer months, offering two-week modified versions of the students' voyages through its own scheme for combining adventure and education.
When Second Officer Araiza finished his briefing, he asked if we had any questions. Most of the writers wanted to know about such things as hull speed, stabilizers, safety equipment, and other matters related to the ship. I was more interested in the people, like Ariaza, who run it. I had decided year ago that readers prefer personals and personalities to statistics and data. My first question was "Well, how did you happen to get into the field?"
His answer astonished me. "I got hooked when I was a student on Semester-at-Sea!" Then, qualifying what he said, he noted that it was the forerunner to that program, originally called World Campus Afloat. I followed up with a few further questions and asked to come back. I did ... A day later I had a long colloquy with him and learned much more about the young seafarer.
A native of Los Angeles, Rick Ariaza wasn't sure what he wanted to do when he left high school. He expected to go to college but dawdled around because, he said, he wasn't particularly excited about anything academic. Then ... he saw a brochure for Chapman College and its World Campus Afloat. The program, which allowed students to go to sea one year after another, appealed to his more adventurous spirit.
Rock's only experiences away from home had been several religious pilgrimages to parts of Mexico. He applied and was accepted. He first sailed on the S.S. Universe (recently replaced by Universe Explorer) in the fall of 1972; then went out again in the fall of 1974 and, again, in the fall of 1975. With a twinkle in his eye, he said, "You know, from the moment I stepped aboard, I was hooked."
I thought to myself ... 'who wouldn't be for that first voyage, his very first time at sea, took him from Los Angeles to Honolulu to Singapore, Jakarta, Ceylon, Bombay, Mombassa, Capetown, Accra, through the Suez Canal, across the Mediterranean and the Atlantic to Port Everglades, Florida'?
His second he went from LA to Lima, Valparaiso, Buenos Aries, Rio, Casablanca, Cairo, Istanbul, Athens, and Barcelona; the third took him and his fellow students to Caracas, Dakar, Tunis, Cairo, Istanbul, Naples, Lisbon and many other ports as, once again, the old Universe circled the globe ... that's adventure right off!
Journalism became Rick Ariaza's field of concentration and he became a reporter on the staff of "The Helm," the student newspaper. An assignment by the editor to interview the captain. Captain Ye Chow Jen, changed his life.
As I was to do with him some 25 years later, he began by asking the captain about his life - and his life at sea. As Captain Ye shared his experiences, the young reporter began to have extravagant visions of filling his shoes, standing on the bridge, and being, as it were, Master of the Universe himself. His desire, from the time of this epiphany, he told me, was not just to be a sea captain, but also to be the captain of that very ship, his alma mater.
What made this college student's pipe-dream so different from those of so many young people, who might entertain similar thoughts under such circumstances, was that he was bound and determined to make it come true ... which he did.
Soon after graduating from Chapman, Araiza enrolled in the California Maritime Academy where he received training to become a ship's officer. "For those four years, while others dreamed of commanding giant tankers and container ships, or, perhaps, some elegant cruise ship, I dreamed of that old bucket, the S.S. Universe." Rick said with that sparkle that comes from within.
When he completed his training and began serving in different capacities on a variety of cargo vessels, steadily moving up the ladder of sea-life, eventually to becoming the skipper of the Coolly Maritime, he claims he tried "to make every ship a Universe."
When the Gulf War came his ship was commandeered to carry military cargo from the east coast of the U.S. to Saudi Arabia. The crossings were long, sometimes 27 days, and, he said, "I had plenty of time to ruminate and to think about what I really wanted to do." Again and again, the old dream of serving on the Universe or a ship like her began to haunt him. He put together a resume and sent it off to a number of cruise lines, including that owned by C.Y. Tung of Hong Kong.
The management of American-Hawaii Lines contacted him and he was interviewed - and hired almost on the spot. It was, in part, his enthusiasm for a particular kind of cruising that, he thinks, appealed to Peter Wong, the CEO of America-Hawaii Cruises, whose ship, like the S.S. Universe, was owned by C.Y.Tung.
At 36 Rick Ariaza assumed the captaincy of one of American-Hawaii's ships, the S.S. Constitution. His appointment broke the age barrier and, as he, a Mexican American, put it, "the color barrier, too."
From the start, he spoke to his superiors and his passengers about his experiences on World Campus Afloat and its successor program, Semester-at-Sea. He suggested a similar type of voyage, focusing on the Pacific Rim and linked to the now-Pittsburgh-based Institute of Seaboard Education.
For a variety of reasons, the idea did not receive the hoped for positive response from Pittsburgh. The folks at the Institute have subsequently told me that they wanted to concentrate on their own program. Ariaza and his partner, Paul Peterson, who had been at the East West Center in Honolulu and sailed with Semester-at-Sea, then took their plan to the University of Hawaii. At first those at the Manoa campus were enthusiastic but then cooled to the idea. Other factors intervened and, in the end, the plan was abandoned.
Captain Rick left the company in 1994 and began looking for another command. He drifted around for a while,(so to speak, not nautically) and took relief jobs, while all the time trying to figure a way to realize his dream of serving on a ship that carried students, best of all - a very long shot, he realized - on the bridge of the S.S. Universe. Then, miracle of miracles, at least in the mind of one idealistic alumnus, there was an opening on the successor ship, the S.S. Universe Explorer.
He applied and in the course of the interview he was told that they wanted those on the senior staff to have experience relevant to the special mission of the ship. He told them of his background; and how he got started, He was offered a job almost immediately. However, it wasn't for the position of Master. It wasn't even Staff Captain, the second in command. Despite his credentials (he already had a master's license), his experience and his very special ties to the program, the position offered was only as Second Mate.
Surprisingly perhaps, "Without hesitation," he said, "I took it. I just felt in my bones it would be the right decision. " He was soon to be promoted to Staff Captain.
He paused ... then, in the pregnant silence, he smiled, looked up from the chart table, gazed out over the prow, turned back to me and said, "I'd rather be here than anyplace on earth."
I asked him if he would be interested in bringing student reporters up to see what he was doing - maybe to do for them what that catalyst and mentor Ye Chow Jen had done for him a quarter of a century ago.
"Sure," he said grinning almost sheepishly. Then he added, "And when I'm off duty I want to go below and see what they are up to. I might even take a course or two next semester!" "In navigation?" I asked. "Or, on the anthropology of the regions to be visited?" "No, I don't think so. I'd prefer to focus on poetry." ... a man of many facets that you would enjoy meeting I am sure.
SoGoNow.com by: Peter I. Rose on: 1:46 AM | What do you think? (1)
August 30, 2005
Acoma Pueblo Walking Tour
A
We arrived at the
After a short bus ride we followed our tour guide into the village and eventually into the cemetery and church. The church has paintings that date back to the 1500’s and a beautifully painted alter. Interestingly enough the church is vast but has just a few pews. This is because the
As we walked in the village I was struck with how quiet the village was and how few people were out on the streets. Our guide remarked that the Acoma’s are a shy people and they were probably looking out at us from the windows as sometimes the tour groups are the entertainment of the day.
The village with the cisterns, ovens and wood ladders was really picturesque and an ideal place to take photos. At the end of the tour we had an opportunity to either take the bus down to the
You can get to the
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August 29, 2005
A Conversion in the Desert: Hot Rocks and Hedonism at the Five-Star Camelback Resort
By Peter I. Rose
There are all sorts of conversion experiences. Most are spiritual and many take place in the desert. Some are political and occur in far less arid if no less windy venues. The latter is exemplified by Senator Jefford's decision to leave the Republic Party a few years back. Then there are those conversions that are, well, quasi-religious. I just had one- and in the desert, too.
For some months my wife and I had been planning a trip to a place we'd heard of but never visited, the Marriott Corporation's oldest and still most favored resort, the Camelback Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Situated on over 125 acres on the slope of Mummy Mountain and facing the hump of Camelback 
Mountain, it is everything an exhausted snowbird like me could wish for. The setting is magnificent. The grounds are beautiful (and beautifully kept) and the living (in adobe-like rooms and suites, each with a patio or sundeck and some with their own swimming pools) is easy. The eating is, too. A number of first-rate restaurants, including the elegant "Chaparral" featuring continental cuisine, "Rita's" with authentic Mexican food, and "The 
Navaho" are mainstays. All are located at the center of the complex. "The Grill" is at the golf course a few miles away. And then there is my favorite, "Sprouts". "Sprouts" is. . . . But I am getting ahead of my story.
As we wandered the sometimes walled, sometimes flower- and cactus-bordered paths from our caseta to the big conference center, we were 
struck by something that seems to sum it all up in a phrase: Camelback has five star elegance with low-keyed ambiance. Much of this, we came to realize, is a tribute to visionary Bill Marriott, Jr., and chief implementer, General Manager Wynn Tyner. Wynn and his wife, Terry, an imaginative decorator, have preserved the idea of constantly improving the character of their Shangri-La while maintaining its unique Southwestern-spirit and culture. A dedicated international staff of employees backs these leaders.
Because it is a resort and not just a hotel, we knew the Camelback Inn would have a wide choice of activities of it own: golf course, tennis courts, swimming pools for dunkers and lap pools for real swimmers, and a spa. It was the last place that turned out to be the site of my conversion.
Now I must confess to being a rather highly 
disciplined, rather puritanical, if superannuated, jock. Every day for the last 25 years I have run or biked or swum or skied or walked a long distance. Every day! And, having a compulsive Type A-personality, over all that time I have kept a daily record of my aerobic "points" following the "Air Force" program of Dr. Kenneth Cooper, who founded Dallas' Cooper Institute for in 1970. I started my regimen in 1977, shortly after reading his first book.
In my distinctive (some would say mono-maniacal) quest for maintaining fitness by driving 
myself harder and harder, I never thought of going to a spa or even having a massage. The latter was something our daughter had repeatedly told me would do me a world of good. "It would calm you down, dad, make you relax." (I now know I should have listened to her pestering as I did years ago when she urged me to have acupuncture for post-operative pain which, in desperation, I finally did – and got almost immediate relief!)
But.... "Massage?" "A spa?"
"Come on," I said to Lies, "That's for rich yuppies with money to burn and no inclination to really work out." I was wrong. I admit it.
Knowing I was a writer, Camelback staff members arranged for me not only to visit the Spa but to experience it. Game, but admittedly skeptical, I let them schedule me for some of the principal activities. It was then that my conversion began.
First I was given a hot stone massage, a remarkably refreshing treatment which was clearly a variation on some Native American practice; my wife (whose epiphany was almost as profoun
d as mine) was given a different kind of massage. We tried other treatments and used the facilities in the exercise room (one of the few places that was perfectly adequate but not anything too special). We met the trainers who taught aerobics, yoga, the Pilates system and other and watched some classes. We swam lap after lap in the 25 meter outdoor pool with views of the mountains and were tested by physical fitness specialists who used the Cooper Institute's protocol and then sent off the results to Dallas for evaluation.
It was the first time since I began my aerobics regime that I had been checked out. I was pleased to be told by the therapist that I was the first 70 year old guy who could do 60 pushups in a minute and that I had more than held my own in other measures devised by Cooper and his colleagues. (While in the little testing lab I realized that what I really needed was guidance in pacing myself, in learning to unwind. Perhaps, I thought, another massage might do the trick. And I had another one!)
According to my evaluator, I even came in well under the requisite weight for a person of my age and body-type. And this despite the fact that I had been sampling, no, indulging in, the varied fare in the gourmet restaurants already mentioned, and in "Sprouts" located on the grounds of the Spa. "Sprouts" is the special domain of Rhode Island transplant, Executive Chef and Good Food Guru, Donald Rini.
When I first went to "Sprouts" for lunch, knowing its raison d'etre, I expected, well, 
sprouts, and carrot sticks, egg-beaters, and unleavened bread. Rini and his manager, India-born Australian-trained Heman Ahlowalia, do serve that, but much, much more. Rini's self-described "curative cuisine" is, in fact, a tasty, low-fat, low-cal menu of Dungenes crab, various fish and filet mignon salads, special elixirs and smoothies, and fantastic desserts, some even made with cheeses and custards.
My spa experience started on the second day of what was to be a week of "R&R." We managed to rest and to do the things we enjoy, including visiting regional museums and getting a sense of local color. But until we had to leave Paradise Valley (the actual post office address of Camelback Inn) and its 75-degree mid-January temperature for the frigid shore of Paradise Pond in Northampton, Massachusetts wh
ere we live, Hedy and I spent a good part of every day in that sybaritic temple of the body and soul (and also of the taste buds) situated on the northern edge of the Marriott's flagship property.
Before leaving the Spa at Camelback for the last time, I was told that that earthly corner of Paradise was about to undergo its own transformation "from being a great facility for both guests of the inn and local residents to an even grander one." I asked myself, "How much better can it get?" Then, I thought, "I can't wait to find out!"
Like all true converts, I am ready to spread the word about my conversion experience to all those other skeptics back home and also to start planning for my first annual pilgrimage to that special place in the Sonoran Desert known as Camelback Inn.
*Peter Rose is a sociologist and free-lance writer. His most recent book is Guest Appearances and Other Travels in Time and Space (Swallow Press, 2003).
This article was first posted on www.travelworldmagizine.com
SoGoNow.com by: Peter I. Rose on: 1:27 PM | What do you think? (1)
Adventure at Lands End
Los Cabos is unbeatable for outdoor fun and adventure. Known as the marlin fishing capital of the world, and the championship golf capital of Latin America, this world-class vacation playground is also home to an impressive array of watersports, endless miles of beaches, intriguing desert and towering mountains. Snorkel, dive and kayak in nature's swimming pool- the Sea of Cortez- where there are more species of marine life than anywhere else in the world. Don't forget that yearly vacationer, the gray whale, who swims 6,000 miles just to hang out in Cabo. Whatever your energy level, you'll find fun for the entire family where the desert meets the sea.
Watersports
Picturesque San Lucas Bay is a protected marine sanctuary. Home to schools of diverse tropical fish, sea lions and seabirds- snorkeling, diving and sightseeing are all terrific here. For families, a glass bottom boat tour out to the famous El Arco, Cabo's famous arch, is ideal, or plan a snorkeling tour and swim with sea lions and tropical fish.
Snorkeling and SCUBA diving are excellent for all levels near the arch. For the less experienced, try Pelican Rock, Neptune's Finger and the Sea Lion Colony. Advanced divers will be amazed by the Abyss, 100 feet from the arch. Both the North and South Walls are canyons of steep granite with ledges at 100 feet. The Sandfalls is a dramatic 90-foot dive documented by the late Jacques Cousteau.
There's something for all ages at Medano Beach. Hobie Cat, boogie board, kayak and ski boat rentals are along the beach. Thrill seekers will love the action on a Jet Ski or Waverunner, or if you're feeling daring, one of the best views you'll ever have of the arch is at the end of a 600-foot rope while parasailing.
At Chileno Bay, family snorkeling is fantastic around the reefs. This is also an excellent spot for kayaking. If you have never tried this sport, kayaks are stable, user-friendly and a great way to see the natural beauty of Los Cabos from the water. Nearby Santa Maria Bay, a marine sanctuary in a protected cove, is another excellent snorkeling spot for all ages.
Boat Cruises
A fantastic way to experience Los Cabos is on a boat cruise. Daytime snorkel cruises depart mid morning for a few hours on the water, sailing to Santa Maria Bay or Chileno. Two hour sunset cruises leave an hour before sunset, taking you around Land's End, then out into the open ocean for a look back on Cabo San Lucas Bay. Glass bottom boats run all day from the marina out to and around Land's End, with a view of the marine life below.
If you're up for an exciting adventure, take a ride on the pirate ship Sunderland, an original tall ship built in 1885 with working cannons. Available for sunset and snorkel tours, this is one activity no mate should miss. Another way to get out on the water is on the Rissalena, a 37-foot power catamaran. This a one-of-a-kind cruise experience with customized itineraries, and snorkeling and sunset tours.
Horseback Riding
Exploring the mystical desert is easy on horseback. There's no way to describe the sense of freedom you'll feel while riding through the desert on a fine mount. Cuadra San Francisco at Cabo Real offers desert and beach rides and specializes in family tours. Riders are matched to the perfect horse for their skill level with plenty of practice time in the ring before heading out with radio-equipped guides. Ride trails into Arroyo San Carlos and Venado Blanco, or ride near the surf on miles of sandy beach. In Cabo San Lucas, Rancho Collins leads trail and beach rides close to town.
Hiking, Mountain Biking and Eco-Tours
Los Cabos offers an incredible range of outdoor opportunities, from long, empty beaches to desert and mountain challenges. Guided day hikes and eco-tours to backcountry sites include the Hot Springs near Santiago, a small village an hour north of San Jose. This is an easy uphill hike through a maze of boulders and rock formations. At the top are pools of clear water perfect for relaxing and picnicking. Other hiking and natural history tours feature fossil fields, challenging hikes into the Sierra de la Laguna and daytrips to old mining ghost towns.
North and east of San Jose are miles of trails and backcountry roads. Mountain bike excursions range from casual family outings with a stop for a picnic along the way, to challenging off-road tours led by experienced guides.
Extreme Sports
If your idea of a vacation is conquering world-famous breaks, climbing and rappelling Cabo's amazing rock formations, or test driving an authentic Chenowth off-road race car, extreme sport enthusiasts will love Cabo's diverse challenges.
Whale Watching
Whale watching from January to March is another great reason to be in Cabo during these months. During whale watching season, you'll spot whales frolicking off the coast without even trying! For a closer look, take a whale watching cruise or head out with experts in Zodiac inflatables.
Even if you've come to Los Cabos to land the big one, or to tee off on Jack Nicklaus' favorite three finishing holes in all of golf, you'll find a diverse playground awaits you with so much to do and discover. Let Earth, Sea & Sky be your guide to the best outdoor adventures at Land's End.
Insider's Tips
With more than 18 years in Los Cabos, Earth Sea & Sky Vacations' on-site representatives know Cabo best. Be sure to use our valuable resources when planning your activities.
Watersports are ideal during the morning when the ocean is calm and clear. For snorkel cruises, take along a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, a cover up and beach towel. Make sure to arrive at the designated dock a minimum of 15 minutes before departure time for all cruises.
For desert excursions, a hat, sunscreen, running shoes, long pants and a long sleeve shirt are a must for protection against the sun and prickly plant life. And don't forget your camera!
SoGoNow.com by: Guest Author on: 12:06 PM | What do you think? (1)
August 26, 2005
Where to Kiss a Dolphin
By Sharon Spence
On a quiet Florida Sunday morning, I'm waist deep in Miami Seaquarium's "Flipper Lagoon." With me on the underwater platform is the world's most amorous couple. Across the Lagoon, six dorsal fins glide ominously through the water like a scene from Jaws. This is not my typical Sunday morning, I assure you.
Mercedes and Alex Bowwet gaze tenderly into each other's eyes, like country western music video lovers. Mercedes' waist length auburn hair trails romantically in the water, Alex is mesmerized by her movie star beauty.
Suddenly the fins cut through the water, speeding across the lagoon toward us. Mercedes screams with delight. Six bottlenose dolphins arrive for our morning swim. One of their trainers, Angela Boucher, tosses each a fish, which they greedily gulp. "Ok, people," she says to us, " Ripley, Sundance, Samantha, Noel, Joley, and Panama are here to give you a dolphin kiss. So pucker up."
Now I've kissed my share of frogs, hoping each would change into my true Prince. But why kiss a frog when a dolphin's so much cuter? However, these are old fashioned dolphins, so playtime comes before anything as serious as a kiss. They take off, zooming around the lagoon, leaping in and out of the water like exuberant kids.
"Dolphins navigate using echolocation," Angela tells us. "It utilizes their exceptional sense of hearing, rather than sight. They send out clicking sounds that bounce off objects in the water, and in seconds know your size and where you are in relation to them. It's amazing how well this biosonar enables them to navigate their surroundings."
Samantha swims over to Mercedes, Alex, and me, squeaking and grinning. Such a flirt. Wrapping my arms around her, she's a huge slippery rubber balloon. "Their favorite things are food, toys and hugs," Angela says, "so she's as thrilled as you are."
Mercedes swims into the water, grabbing hold of Samantha's dorsal fin. Off they go, surfing the lagoon, the lovely Mermaid riding her pet dolphin. Sundance begs Alex for a fish and a hug, then they're off for a second dolphin ride.
Mercedes and Alex laugh hysterically, thrilled by their close encounter. Samantha and Sundance drop them back at our platform. Angela gives them a hand signal, and all six dolphins arch out of the water, dancing backwards on their tails. (Remember Michael Jackson dancing backwards in "Thriller?" I think he learned his technique here.)
"Dolphins are very social," Angela explains."They're playful, creative, inquisitive. And very emotional. You've probably heard about dolphins saving humans who get into trouble at sea. It's true, they've actually saved people from drowning."
I flash back to my favorite TV show when I was ten. Nothing could get me home before dark, except Mom calling out the front door: "Sharon, Flipper is on TV." I never missed a show for 5 years, and always fantasized that someday Flipper would save me from drowning in a ten story tsunami.
So here I am, years later, swimming with dolphins in Miami Seaquarium's Flipper Lagoon, where the TV show was filmed in the 1960's. Is this serendipity or what? Mercedes gets lucky too. Samantha swims over to her presenting a plastic water bottle. Opening it, Mercedes peers inside, and screams. Alex slips a two carat diamond engagement ring onto her finger. She cries, he cries, they hug, we applaud. Samantha leaps out of the water like an Olympic Gold Medalist. The other dolphins mimic her, spinning and chortling like circus clowns.
Ripley arrives to take me for a ride. Hanging on to his dorsal fin, we speed through the waves, me wishing I could speak with this magnificently lovable beast. But words aren't really needed. Ripley and I are members of the Mutual Admiration Society. He swims me back to the platform, where Mercedes and Alex, newly engaged, are locked in a lover's embrace. Ripley gets the idea. As he and I exchange a most romantic kiss, I wonder why I wasted so many years kissing all those frogs.
TRAVELERS INFORMATION
Swim and kiss dolphins at Miami Seaquarium, 4400 Rickenbacker Causeway, Miami Florida 33149-1095. Tel: 305-365-2525. Web: www.miamiseaquarium.com
Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau, 701 Brickell Avenue, Suite 2700, Miami, Florida 33131. Tel: 800-955-3646. web: www.TropicoolMiami.com. HELP DOLPHINS IN DANGER
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August 25, 2005
Stoop-Shouldered on Sanibel
By Peter I. Rose*
On my first early morning jog along the beach on Sanibel Island near
Long before the horrendous hurricane season of 2004 nearly flattened the island and its neighbor isle, Captiva, giving the area a new note of repute, Sanibel was known to aficionados as the shell-picking capital of the western world. Maybe of the whole of Planet Earth. There they could find examples of all sorts of esoteric sounding- and lovely looking- sea shells. I guess I knew that but we had been drawn to Sanibel by another attraction: the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge, a southern counterpart to the Cape Cod National Seashore and Audubon's Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary both within a mile of our summer home.
Motivation for the trip aside, my wife and I quickly got caught up in shelling and started to do our own variation on head-down strolling on our own. We quickly discovered the appeal of collecting samples of the wondrous shapes in the sand. We purchased a guide book and started to learn about the variant forms of nerita, limpet, turbo, spirata, cancellaria, and other little creatures we'd never heard of.
Each time we'd go back to the beach, we would watch as one after another of our fellow beachcombers stopped, stooped, picked up a specimen, examined it closely and then debated about whether or not it was a keeper. If deemed worthy, the shell was popped into a small plastic bag to join other treasures of the deep. Then the quest was resumed. We found ourselves following the same routine.
Chatting with fellow stoopers along the strand, I learned that, indeed, many had come there "just to shell." Others, however, were drawn- as we had been- by man and nature's other gifts by the sea: the sheer beauty of the well-preserved place with its low-rise condos and hotels (many then being rebuilt after the great storm and now fully restored), handsome drives, bountiful vegetation, miles of white sand beaches, bike trails and bird sanctuaries. The best of the last is that "Ding Darling" Refuge, a 6000 acre wonderland of mangrove forests, fresh water ponds, and salt water lagoons inhabited by large and small sea birds, alligators, crabs and other crustaceans, and all sorts of fish, some of them great jumpers.
To us, the birds themselves were the main attraction. Perhaps the most interesting, and surely the most colorful, was the roseate spoonbill, a plump, pink creature with a bill that flares out at the end, well, like a . . . ! It is best seen late in the day along with its immediate kinfolk and a variety of other species.
Most common is the white ibis, an imperious-looking, long-legged bird that, while wading, seems to be looking down its long beak in distain of lesser creatures. There were also various sorts of herons- great blues, little blues, and the magnificent "tri-colored;" snowy egrets; anhingas and their look-alike relatives, the cormorants, both of which stand tall and proud on rotting stumps with their wings akimbo as the dried them; and many big white pelicans, too. The latter are clearly cousins of those somewhat smaller brown ones constantly seen flying, diving and swimming along the sandy beaches of the
There are various ways to see the birds of the Refuge. While on the island, we took advantage of all of them: first driving and later cycling through the five-mile sand road maintained by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and open from early morning until 5:30 in the afternoon. Hedy and I also walked along some of the trails and, best of all, rented kayaks at the Tarpon Bay Boat Basin, a part of the refuge, and followed a well marked watery trail across an open bay and then through the mangroves. From the water we were able to creep up on many of the birds to watch them. Some even seemed eager to pose for their pictures.
During a week on the island, we made many trips to the Ding Darling sanctuary and also explored other parts of the island, and its neighbor, Captiva. There we visited the town hall and library (a good place to check on e-mail) and spent an afternoon at the famous, handsome and pricey colony called The South Seas Plantation.
The South Seas is a self-contained resort that seems to combine the best of Hilton Head, various
Every morning I ran several miles along the beach at sunrise. Each evening we walked along it at a much slower pace, often gathering shells. And we both enjoyed swimming laps in our hotel pool and longer distances along the shore before heading off for a day's adventure.
After sunset, we would set out to find places to eat. We had fine meals at the bistro-like Twilight Cafe and at Pippin's, and at several other upscale restaurants, like Dolce Vita and Porter House, most offering local delicacies along with their own specialties, American or continental or Asian fare.
For two people who maintain a frenetic pace most of the year, it was a true holiday.
If you go, I promise you, too, will leave well rested and filled with vivid memories of spectacular bird life, egg boxes filled with sea shells, and only a bit stoop-shouldered.
For further information check out
The Sanibel and
E-mail: info@sanibelisland.com
*Peter Rose is sociologist and writer with home bases in
SoGoNow.com by: Peter I. Rose on: 1:49 PM | What do you think? (0)
August 24, 2005
Sailing the Route of the Hurtigruten...
By Ronald Jacobs
Picture yourself on the deck of a ship traveling through high, twisting narrow gorges. Thousands of meters up near the top of gorge, torrents roar from unseen sources and fall in icy crystalline crescendo. The plummeting water noisily explodes in sparkling icy mists as it crashes over rocky outcropping...finally dissipating itself, spreading in slowly dying eddies over the placid surface of the Sognefjord...the longest, deepest fjord in all the world.
Startling white seagulls caw raucously, whirling and dipping against an almost cloudless azure sky...ahead a tiny village clings impossibly to steep grassy slopes leading to the water's edge.
For untold centuries, the people living along Norway's rugged coast and fjords have been totally dependent on coastal vessels for their survival, particularly during the winter months.
Today, the Hurtigruten, or Coastal Steamers, share these ancient routes (and some of this planet's most varied, beautiful and unspoiled vistas) with their passengers. For those seeking a unique travel adventure, there can be no more enchanting place in the world.
Bold Vikings in their long-ships plied these very waters. This is the land of the midnight sun...the place where the Aurora Borealis' mesmerizing displays fill the skies during the months of darkness...where the surrounding plateaus and valleys are home to the mystical Sámi people, still traveling with, and endlessly seeking greener pastures for their reindeer herds
Since before recorded time, the sea has provided Norway's people a means of transport and its great bounty...salmon, sea trout, lobster, cod and more.
Another kind of bounty results from the Gulf Stream's close proximity to Norway's northern coastal regions helping to temper its winters, and produce fabulous crops of summer vegetables.
Norway's' venerable Bergen Line has been operating Coastal Cruises in these waters for more than a century, offering visitors unforgettable voyages aboard their 12 ship fleet.
Bergen Line's 1,250 mile Coastal Voyage operates in both directions from Bergen in the south, and Kirkenes, far north of the Arctic Circle. Travelers have the option of seven-day cruises from south-to-north, or north-to-south. A twelve-day, round-trip voyage is available, as are a variety of 11 to 14 day fly/cruise and shore excursion options. The fleet calls on 34 ports, 365 days per year.
A number of the ports visited by the Coastal Voyage ships beg for more exploration than is possible during the average stop. To accommodate this need, Bergen Line offers numerous "shore excursion" packages giving passengers the opportunity to visit the sights and re-board at the same or next port.
We prefer to leave the ship in selected ports, check into a local inn or hotel, and conduct our own "day-trips" to the surrounding countryside. The frequency with which Coastal Voyage vessels visit every port makes it easy to board another ship and continue ones' journey. All of the Line's new ships can carry cars, so we find it convenient to bring along a rental car to use at the stops of our choice.
This kind of day-tripping takes a bit of planning and coordination, but is very much worth the effort. Norway's roads are well marked and well maintained. As English is mandatory in all Norwegian schools, it's relatively easy to find one's way...even getting lost can be an adventure!
We also prefer traveling in Norway from south to north...there is something calming about leaving the hustle and bustle of Oslo and Bergen for the less populated, unspoiled regions of Northern Norway; Finnmark and Grenseland.
Sailing north from Bergen, our favorite stops include Molde, a charming town known for its roses and jazz festival. During a recent visit, a ceremony honoring Norway's' postal service, drew large crowds to admire the vintage horse drawn carts, skis and other mail delivery paraphernalia.
Norway's second largest glacier, Svartisen is located at the very end of the Holandsfjord, reached by small launch. This formidable sight is worth the trip, particularly when one realizes that glaciers such as this were Mother Nature's principal tools in carving the Holandsfjord, and Norway's other spectacular fjord.
Several years ago, Trondheim, the country's third largest city celebrated its 1,000 the anniversary and Norwegian King Haralds' birthday in one jubilant summer long event. Trondheim is both beautiful and historically important. Norway's' largest medieval church, Nidaros Cathedral, was built on St. Olaf's burial ground. Construction began in 1070 but the church was damaged by fire on several occasions. Today, the oldest remaining portions date from the 12th century.
North of the Arctic Circle lies the town of Troms...part of its appeal is its history as the starting place for so many North Pole and Arctic expeditions. The town is also home to the famous and distinctively designed and built Arctic Cathedral. Known as the "ice cathedral" because it looks like an iceberg. The enormous stained glass window at the front of the church is the largest in all of Europe. Tromsø' also happens to be the home of Macol, one of Norway's fine locally brewed beers.
At latitude 700, 10', 21", North Cape (NordKapp) is Europe's northernmost point. The North Cape visitor's center is a five-story architectural marvel, carved into the face and top of a granite plateau, hundreds of meters above the Arctic Ocean.
The Center holds displays of North Cape's significant maritime history, offers visitors a variety of food and beverage choices, an extensive gift shop, and its own post office . . . and a charming rock grotto chapel that has become an increasingly popular wedding site. Newlyweds can spend the night in a unique honeymoon suite in a dome atop the center.
North Cape shares Magerøya Island with five small fishing villages. The island's main port and largest town, Honningsvag, is where most visitors arrive after a 45-minute ferry trip from Kafsfjord on the mainland. The island's Arctic scenery is fascinating in summer when some 4-to- 5,000 reindeer are brought over for grazing.
The Coastal Voyages' northern terminus is the town of Kirkenes, located just a few dozen miles from Norway's border with Russia. Across the Pasvikelven river, which marks the border, is the town of Boris Gleb, site of a Russian Orthodox chapel which, after perestroika, reopened for use in the summer of 1992. For the more adventuresome, there are cruises from Kirkenes, along the Russian coast to city of Murmasnk, once the site of the Soviet navy's nuclear powered submarines. The sub "pens" are still visible at this vast facility.
We found the food aboard the Coastal Voyage ships to be wonderful...breakfast is the typical Norwegian buffet, myriad cheeses, cereals, eggs, smoked salmon and pickled fish, breads, flatbrods, lots of steaming coffee, tea and hot chocolate...lunches are hot and cold buffets, and three-course dinners are served on crisp white linen. One of the nice things about Hurtigruten fare is that menus are that are so varied...adapting regional culinary styles, selecting produce from the best of the ports visited. Meals may also reflect the season or a festival...
Before or after dinner, comfortable lounges serve not only mixed drinks and wines, but also create just the right setting to meet with other passengers to share highlights of the voyage.
For brochures and all travel information, Norwegian Coastal Voyages, Inc. /Bergen Line Services' New York office can be reached at 800 323-7436...or on the Internet at http://www.coastalvoyage.com/main/
SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Jacobs on: 1:46 PM | What do you think? (0)
Little Louisville: Big-Time Pride of Kentucky
By DAN SCHLOSSBERG
It takes two minutes but lasts all year.
There's really no other way to measure the impact of the Kentucky Derby- not only in the host city of
The party starts nearly a month before the Run for the Roses, always held on the first Saturday in May.
Pyrotechnics, fashion shows, and a lengthy celebrity guest-list must make the horses wonder what the commotion is all about.
The
Though its one-mile oval track and mile-and-a-quarter Kentucky Derby distance remain from the 19th century, virtually everything else has been upgraded or expanded during an ongoing $121 million facelift. Though it remains the oldest continuously-operated racetrack in the
The annual run of three-year-old thoroughbreds attracts
Winning jockeys must not drink them- or anything else that might add excess pounds. Maintaining their svelte figures is a must, according to displays at the Kentucky Derby museum, at Gate 1 of Churchill Downs.
So handsome that even those with no interest in racing will be enthralled, the museum offers an optional hour-long backside tour through the stable area and infield, with two photo stops, for an extra fee.
Louisville Slugger bats, a baseball staple since 1884, come out of a Main Street factory that also features a museum- devoted to the history of hitting a ball with a stick. Nearby Louisville Slugger Field houses a Triple-A team called the Bats- named for the wooden variety, not the kind that hangs out in caves.
The local sports calendar includes the 2006 Breeders' Cup, a world-class day of racing hosted five times previously at Churchill Downs, and the 2007 Summer National Senior Games. In addition, the Valhalla Golf Club, site of the Senior PGA Championships in 2004, will host the 2008 Ryder Cup.
College basketball is a passion for fans of the
With warm weather invariably lasting longer in
Two sports legends- Baseball Hall of Famer Pee Wee Reese and heavyweight boxing champion Muhammad Ali- called
The city also produced musician Lionel Hampton, actor Tom Cruise, actress Irene Dunne, comedian Foster Brooks, television anchor Diane Sawyer, Supreme Court Justice Louis Brandeis, and Colonel Harland Sanders, founder of Kentucky Fried Chicken.
The city was founded in 1778 by George Rogers Clark, whose brother William was co-commander of the later Lewis & Clark expedition. The famed explorers met in
Louisville's location was no accident: it was chosen because rapids along the
Named for French King Louis XVI, the city has an official seal that reflects both history and heritage: the French fleur-de-lis is a tribute to French aid given to the Colonies during the Revolutionary War. Virginia Gov. Thomas Jefferson, the future President, signed the town's first charter, in 1780.
The
The site of the Great Southern Exposition, forerunner of later World's Fairs,
The 
vessel of its kind. That boat and its sister ship, the Spirit of Jefferson, offer daily dinner and sightseeing cruises along the Ohio River, which stretches 981 miles and is one of three major rivers on the American continent.
Horses hooves have been heard in town since 1875, when Churchill Downs held its first "Run for the Roses," the first leg of the thoroughbred Triple Crown.
Thanks to the
That brand name is almost as old as Churchill Downs; it was first applied in 1893, nine years after John (Bud) Hillerich crafted the first model in his father's woodworking shop. Modern bat-making is such a precise art that professional players sometimes visit the factory to inspect ordered bats before delivery.
The city is steeped in history far beyond the
History also comes to life in the buildings along West Main Street- the nation's top collection of cast-iron storefront facades outside of
The Seelbach Hilton, built in 1915 and immortalized in F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby a decade later, is a registered national historic landmark, while The Galt House has nearly equal claims to fame plus proximity to the waterfront. Though many celebrities have stayed there, most locals swear the best thing ever to come out of the downtown Brown Hotel was a cheese-topped turkey & bacon sandwich called The Hot Brown.
Derby Pie, another local delicacy, is a chocolate-and-nut concoction created by the Melrose Inn of nearby Prospect,
Derby Pie is distributed by Kern's Kitchen, a small, family-run operation. It sells like hotcakes at
Food, drink, and frivolity are also on tap at 4th Street Live!, a one-year-old, $70 million entertainment complex that embraces 350,000 square feet. A short hop from both the convention center and downtown hotels, it features bookstores, bars, free special events, and such food finds as Cold Stone Creamery [perfect for the hot, sultry
The city's
The funky side of town is the Bardstown Road district, where fusion food takes on a whole new meaning and culinary students learn their future trade [at a goumet restaurant named Winston's].
Residents head to the river to cool off, especially since the June 2004 opening of the Waterfront Park's second phase. Most of the 90-acre mix of picnic areas, walking paths, pavilions, playgrounds, viewing porticos, and docks has been completed, with an average annual attendance stretching into seven figures. The designers did well: the complex has won several awards from the American Society of Landscape Architects.
Also near the finish line are the Muhammad Ali Center, a $41 million futuristic structure that will be part museum and part educational complex, and the Kentucky Center for African-American Heritage, to be housed in the historic Trolley Barn on the west side of town. Already open, albeit less than a year old, are the Marriott Louisville Downtown, a 617-room, $10 million convention hotel, and the Frazier Historical Arms Museum, featuring historic weaponry from around the world.
Even historic Churchill Downs is getting a new look, thanks to a three-year project that cost $121 million and caused considerable changes but kept the famed twin spires intact.
As all Kentucky thoroughbreds know, getting around Louisville is equivalent to a hop, skip & a jump: trolleys on tires troll Main and Market Streets, charging 25 cents a ride but offering free gallery hops the first Friday of every month. The trolley stops right in front of the Kentucky Museum of Art & Craft, home of numerous Kentucky-made items. For antiques, the top spot in town is Joe Ley, one of the nation's largest and most unusual treasure troves.
Louisville has a compact city center surrounded by a network of interstates that go north to Cincinnati, west to St. Louis, and south to Atlanta. Louisville International Airport, with more than 100 flights per day, is only seven minutes from the heart of downtown. Independence Air, a discount carrier based in Dulles, links Louisville with more than 40 different cities.
Because of its central location, simple transportation system, and 17,000 hotel rooms, Louisville has become the permanent base of at least a half-dozen national conventions. The list includes the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association's annual convention & trade show; the International Lawn, Garden & Power Equipment Expo; the National Street Rod Association's Street Rod Nationals; the North American International Livestock Exposition; and the National Farm Machinery Show.
For further information, contact Greater Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau, Suite 2300, 401 W. Main St., Louisville, KY 40202 (Tel. 888-LOUISVILLE, Fax 502-561-3120, www.gotolouisville.com)
_____________
Former AP newsman Dan Schlossberg of Fair Lawn, NJ is president of the North American Travel Journalists Association, contributing editor of the 'Travel With Kal' radio show, and author of 31 baseball books. His e.mail address is ballauthor@cs.com.
SoGoNow.com by: Dan Schlossberg on: 1:06 PM | What do you think? (0)
August 23, 2005
Santa Fe Indian Market
The
Photos taken by Toni Fahnestock.
My girlfriend Toni along with our two 13 year old sons went to
All the museums, shops and restaurants are open and the city is teeming with people. The Native American crafts are both original and traditional with some winning prizes for best of market. As we meandered along the streets we saw all types of people with the most spectacular huge pieces of Indian Jewelry. If you were ever tempted to take out all the turquoise jewelry you own and wear it in public this would be the place to look right at home.
We passed enough people with Indian tacos and fry bread in their hand that we were really getting hungry. We headed to the buffet at La Fonda and got a table, it was great food and good margaritas.
The boys had enough shopping so we headed to the churches in the Plaza area. We went to Saint Francis Cathedral. The founder of this cathedral, Jean Baptist Lamy was immortalized in Willa Cather’s book “Death Comes for the Archbishop”. The cathedral has interesting and beautiful paintings of Christ. We also went to Loretto Chapel. This church is known as the church with the spiral staircase rumored to be build by
We had a wonderful time in
SoGoNow.com by: Kellie Archuletta on: 8:23 PM | What do you think? (3)
Up in the Hills of Old Acapulco
Up in the hills of old 
narrow streets lined with flowering bougainvilleas, is the house of Dolores Olmedo.
Though the street called Cerro de la Pinzona has many stucco mansions surrounded by high walls and protected by iron gates, Olmedo's home stands out. It is here that in the mid 1950s her good friend Diego Rivera created a 60-foot mural along the outside stonewall.
Rivera, considered one of the greatest artists of this century and also the husband of artist Frida Kahlo, spent 18 months using a combination of tiles, seashells and stones in a 
sparkling array of vivid colors to fashion his mural de la serpiente emplumada (the feathered serpent). These are fantastical forms including the serpent that uncoils across approximately 30 feet of the mosaic, include the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl, the mythological dog Tepeziuncle as well as a dragonhead and a flamboyant face with a cactus growing from the top of its head. Rivera, along with two other artists, produced this art form now known as Mexican muralism. To do so, he immersed himself in the mythology of
Inside the empty modernistic house with its broad expanse of glass and flat planes of stucco, is another treasure trove of Rivera's works. The house, which was Rivera's studio, is not normally opened to visitors, though it is scheduled to become a museum in the future. But I am with someone who knows someone and so we are allowed to go through the rusted iron gate, through a tangled, overgrown garden of palms and birds of paradise and up a narrow staircase past buckets of plaster and tools left by handy men.
Though the Mexican government asked Rivera to remove a hammer and sickle representing his communist beliefs from the outside mural, inside, these symbols along with a dove carrying an olive branch are part of an elaborate mosaic on the ceiling. Other mosaic designs are more whimsical, a plane flies above a line of blue waves while a bright yellow and red fish swims in a single wave. Seashells dot the black tiles that offset the brilliant hues that Rivera selected for his compositions.
Up another flight of stairs is an open roof overlooking the many hills of
To many,
But beyond the beaches, the La Quebrada high divers who arc off the craggy rocks 120 feet down into the shallow waters of the Pacific and the numerous nightclubs,