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November 2005

November 30, 2005

Tajine: Morocco's Tasty Contribution To The Culinary World

By Habeeb Salloum

My first introduction to tajine, a dish which vies with couscous as Morocco's national dish, took place in Rabat at the home of my friend Idriss. I had met him during his student days in Toronto after he had finished his studies at Laval University in Quebec City. Before he returned to his country, he, with his wife, Amina, had spent some time as our guests and enjoyed our home-cooked meals of Canadian and Middle Eastern foods.PotteryShopMorroco.jpg

Often after a meal, we would discuss the attributes of dishes we had just consumed, after which , more than once, Idriss or Amina would  comment, "You must come to Morocco as our guests! I am sure after savoring our dishes, you will never forget Moroccan food - especially our tajines and couscous."

Now, sitting amid the luxurious Moorish architecture of Idriss's home, I watched a maid place before us a large steaming dish of what appeared to be a colourful stew. Noticing that I was looking at the dish before us, Amina remarked, "It's called Tajine Fas! I'm from the city Fez and we are renowned for our tajines." She smiled as she urged us to dip into that well-known Moroccan dish.

Soon, we were dipping morsels of thick bread - the best way to eat tajines - into the huge common dish. While relishing our Tajine Fas, I looked at Idriss with a satisfied grin, "You were right when you told us in Canada that once we tried Moroccan food, it will always stay in our memory.

Tajine, similar to the French etouffé, is both the name for a vast number of stews found on the menus of every Moroccan eating place and the shallow and handleless earthenware utensil with a cone-shaped lid in which they are cooked. It derives its name from the Greek teganon (frying pan) and is believed to have a history to the times that the Greeks were in North Africa.

Prepared from fish, chicken, lamb or other meats and a wide variety of vegetables, tajines are fragrant, tart, spicy and sweet. Stewed with fruits, olives, lemons, herbs and spices, and simmered to produce tasty sauces, they are a perfect answer to a hungry person's dreams. When cooked in tajine earthenware, they reach their epitome of flavour. The mouth-watering taste of steaming tajines are as a result of the conical-lid capturing the steam and juices from all the ingredients simmering together for long hours over very low heat without the cover being removed.

I had a chance in the 1980's, while travelling by bus from Casablanca to Marrakesh, to sample one these traditionally cooked tajines. During the journey, I became friendly with Muhammad, my seat companion - a jeweler from Casablanca. When the bus stopped for lunch, as the passengers were streaming into a roadside restaurant serving French food, Muhammad took me by the hand and steered me to a nearby peoples' eating place where everyone in the place was dining on tajines.

I learned, as I enjoyed my succulent dish, that the tajines were prepared the previous day and allowed to simmer all night. For a few dirhams, I had savored a memorable meal. When I came to pay, Muhammad pulled my hand back, "Don't think of paying! Are we not Arabs? You are my guest!" That meal, along with Muhammad's hospitality, I have never forgotten.

The Moroccan kitchen would be much poorer without the delectable tajines. Fragrant, zesty, spicy or sweet, they are always delicious and inviting. Simmered to produce tasty sauces, their enticing aromas as they cook, and the flavours of the ingredients all meld together, making even the one who has just eaten yearn to sample the simmering dish.

Outside of Morocco, tajine earthenware utensils are hard to find. However, ordinary casseroles with lids or covered pots simmering over the fire are a fine replacements. The tajines might not be as tasty, but just about.

While dining on tajines outside of Morocco, one can enjoy the dish in various ways - by dipping crusty bread into the stew, or with a side dish of mashed potatoes or rice.

Fish Stew - Tajine Hout

Serves 4FishstewMorocco.jpg

1/2 cup cooking oil

2 pounds salmon or similar type fish steaks

2 medium size onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

coriander leaves

1 small hot pepper, finely chopped

2 cups stewed tomatoes, puréed with 1 cup of water

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 lemon, quartered, then sliced

1/3 cup green olives, pitted

In a frying pan, heat oil, then sauté fish steaks over medium heat for 10 minutes, turning them over once. Remove steaks and place in a casserole. In same oil, sauté onions, garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, except the lemon and olives, to the frying pan contents then pour over the steaks in the casserole. Cover then bake in a 350 F preheated oven for 50 minutes. Spread lemons and olives evenly over the top of the steaks, then bake for a further 10 minutes. Serve immediately with mashed potatoes or cooked rice.

Egg and Almond Stew - Tajine Tufaaya

Serves 4 to 6AlmondPruneChicken.jpg

3 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 pinch saffron

1 1/2 pounds beef, cut into 1 inch cubes

2 cups water

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander

4 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup slivered almonds

4 hard boiled eggs, shelled and quartered

Melt butter in a saucepan, then add the onions, salt, pepper, paprika, cayenne, saffron and meat. Stir-fry over medium heat until meat begins to brown then add water and coriander. Cover, then cook over low heat for 2 hours or until meat is well cooked, adding more water if necessary. Turn off heat and set aside. Heat oil in a frying pan, then add almonds and sauté until they turn golden brown. Remove from oil and set aside. Place meat with its sauce in a serving platter, then garnish with almonds. Place egg quarters spaced on top, then serve hot.

Fava Bean and Meat Stew - Tajine M'qualli

Serves about 4 to 6FavaBeanandmeat.jpg

1 pound beef or lamb, cut into medium size pieces

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

2 cups water

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups fresh or frozen fava shelled beans

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 cup black olives, pitted and halved

In a saucepan, place meat, onion, garlic, coriander leaves, salt, ginger, pepper, turmeric, water and olive oil then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over low heat for 2 hours or until meat turns tender. Add fava beans, then cook for a further 20 minutes or until beans are done, adding more water if necessary.  Stir in lemon juice then place in a serving utensil. Decorate with olives, then serve hot.

Almond, Prune and Chicken Stew - Tajine Dajaj bi-Barqooq wa Lawz

Serves about 8EggAlmondStewMorocco.jpg

Chicken, about 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces

3 medium onions, chopped

8 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

4 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pepper

pinch of saffron

3 cups water

1 cup prunes, pitted

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup blanched almonds

In a saucepan, place chicken, onions, garlic, coriander, butter, salt, pepper, saffron and water, then bring to boil. Cover, then simmer over low heat for about 1 1/2  hours or until the chicken is well-done, adding more water if necessary. Remove chicken pieces with a slotted spoon and place on platter - keep warm. Add prunes to the sauce, then simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Stir in honey and cinnamon, then continuing simmering uncovered for another 10 minutes. Pour hot sauce over chicken pieces, then decorate with almonds and serve hot.

Tel: 416-445-4558
Fax: 416-510-2143
E-mail: habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca

SoGoNow.com by: Habeeb Salloum on: 6:49 PM | What do you think? (2)

November 28, 2005

In the Name of Food: The Lengths To Which We'll Go For Our Favorite Foods

By Linda Pernice Kavanagh

How many stores do you shop in when preparing for a dinner party?

How far will you drive for a favorite food indulgence?

Where do you find the freshest produce?

Who carries the finest meats and cheeses?

What makes a particular food item superior to others?

We all do it. We put ourselves out, travel further than we need to, spend more than we have to, and think we have the scoop on the best of the best. All in the name of food. That's right. Although food is a personal, yet, universal pleasure, it's true that some eat to live, while the mass majority of us live to eat! As a food writer and industry professional, I sometimes feel I may go over board when it comes to exploring the magnificent world of food. Not true. It turns out that I am not alone in my passion. In the popular teen movie Harold and Kumar Go to White Castle, two out-of-their-mind college students go to great (outrageous) extents to track down their beloved White Castle fast food – squishy square mini burgers. Sure, it's just a movie, but is it really that far from reality? I don't think so. Here are just a few examples of the great lengths people will go to for the best foods, or to merely satisfy a craving.

One of the nation's leading fast food companies, Nathan's Famous hot dogs, began serving their one-of-a-kind frankfurters back in 1916 in Brooklyn, New York. Coney Island, to be exact. While the franchise has grown to over 1,400 branded product points of distribution in 41 states, the District of Columbia, and 17 foreign countries, there's just no denying the taste of these hot dogs purchased straight from their original location along the boardwalk. One of the reasons for this phenomenon is said to be the salty sea air that contributes to the hot dog's unique flavor. Many argue that it's simply a mind-over-matter issue, creating the feeling of originality that comes with biting into these snappy beef franks while soaking up the historical atmosphere- and hearing the roar of the Cyclone roller coaster in the background. No matter, it's worth the 50 + miles from Fairfield County for a true Nathan's Famous hot dog – with or without mustard. Nathan's Famous, 1310 Surf Avenue, Brooklyn, NY (718) 946-2202

Paper thin prosciutto, tangy provolone cheese, spicy sausage, milky mozzarella, salty sopresate, fruity first-press olive oil, imported Reggiano Parmigiano...do I have your attention yet? I could send you to Little Italy in Manhattan, but you don't need to go that far. In a different New York borough another Little Italy exists. It's called Arthur Avenue in the Belmont section of the Bronx. In 1933 New York City had over 50,000 pushcart peddlers. Each neighborhood, according to ethnicity, specialized in various goods and groceries. Peddlers with imported Italian foods, wine, and linens lined Arthur Avenue and supplied the entire neighborhood with their daily needs. Storefronts have now replaced the carts (some still do exist in the warmer months and during the holidays) and the traditions and recipes have now been passed down from generation to generation. Here are a few favorites: Addeo Bakers produces handcrafted artisan breads such as crunchy bread sticks and biscotti, crusty Italian bread, chewy Ciabatta, and sweet Panettone bread. 2372 Hughes Avenue, 718.367.8316

The Calabria Pork Store has everything you need for the perfect antipasto party. Sopresate, sweet and hot dry sausage, aged capicollo, aged prosciutto, Pecorino Romano and Pamigiano Regiano cheese, whole milk mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, cured pancetta, pepperoni, and salami are just several charcuterie staples. Roasted peppers, imported olives, syrupy balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, and roasted tomatoes round out the meal- don't' forget the bread. 2338 Arthur Avenue, 718.367.5145

Gino Raguso was born in a town called Gravina in Bari, Italy to a family of bakers. In 1957 Gino and his wife Clara immigrated to the United States. In  1961 the couple (and their 6 children) opened Gino's Pastry. Gino has since passed on, but Clara and the kids continue their father's work. My favorites include: Cannoli - fried wine dough shell stuffed with a sweet ricotta filling and fresh chocolate custard, Napoleon - three layers of crisp puff pastry filled with Bavarian custard and iced with fondant and nuts, Pasticciotti - the Italian cream puff! Sweet dough filled with fresh custard, and Sfogliatelle - a crispy shell stuffed with a baked ricotta cream with pieces of candied fruit inside. The crescent and pignoli cookies alone are worth the drive. 580 East 187th Street, 718 584 3558

Peter's Meat Market is what a butcher shop should be. Pete and Mike have been serving their customers on Arthur Avenue since 1966. Hand-trimmed beef, pork, and veal, as well as fresh poultry and more unique (sweetbreads, capon, etc.) meat varieties are always fresh and of the highest quality. Prepared foods and made-to-order preparations can also be ordered, such as braciole (beef rolls), veal rollatini, and fabulous sausages, including pork sausage with broccoli rabe- yum! 2344 Arthur Ave 718.367.3136

Where in New England does one go for the best rich and creamy New England clam chowder? I asked 12 of my friends and family members this exact question and 10 of them (yep, 10) said "The Black Pearl in Newport, Rhode Island." So, off we went, approximately 140 miles north on I-95 to the waterside township of Newport. What makes this chowder worth the drive? Executive Chef Dan Knerr says it's the abundance of clams, butter, heavy cream, and dillweed that are the secrets to his success, and that the recipe hasn't changed in over 20 years! The restaurant produces over 400 gallons of this decadent soup during peak summer months. "People come from all over the country, and the world - Europe, Canada, and Asia. Visitors will come to Newport for sailing regattas and other national events and demand Black Pearl chowder," says Chef Knerr. Soup to go is popular at $12 a quart and $20 a half gallon, hot or frozen, many are buying the famous chowder by the case and stocking up for the cooler months. Sure you can purchase the chowder online, www.blackpearlnewport.com, but it's far more exciting to take the drive, stroll through the shops along the waterfront, and enjoy the New England chowder and atmosphere before heading home with your chowder to go! By the way, the other 2 people polled claimed they couldn't decide between The Black Pearl and The Mooring Restaurant next door. Either way, head to Newport! The Black Pearl, Newport Bannister's Wharf Newport, RI (401) 846-5264

There seems to be no shortage of good food and quality restaurants throughout Fairfield County, but there are, however, some specialties that just can't be had in our neck of the woods. Chinese dim sum is one such delicacy. While there are numerous Chinese restaurants serving dumplings, spring rolls, and the like, a true dim sum experience, push cart and all, is best experienced in the heart of China Town on Manhattan's lower East side. China Town is the home of the majority of Chinese New Yorkers, offering visitors and residents hundreds of restaurants and fresh fruit and fish markets, all woven throughout winding and overcrowded streets. Dim sum, a peasant food served primarily for breakfast, brunch or lunch, consists of over 100 "finger foods" served off pushcarts that make their way through oversized dining rooms filled with large groups of friends and families, often sitting for hours at a time while picking on various dim sum varieties. True to form, many dim sum items are either steamed in bamboo or deep-fried. If you are one of those who enjoy ordering off of the left side (appetizers) of a Chinese menu, you will most likely love the dim sum experience. Pushcart upon pushcart wheel by with tantalizing morsels such as:

- Shrimp Dumplings (har gow)- shrimp filling, wrapped in translucent rice-flour skin in a half-moon shape

- Steamed Barbeque Pork Buns (char siu bau)- fluffy white rice flour buns filled with sweet pork meat.

- Rice Noodle Rolls (cheung fun)- filled with either roast pork, beef, or shrimp with soy sauce or peanut sauce

- Sweet Silken Tofu (dau fu fa)- fresh silken tofu served warm with a sweet syrup, often for dessert.

- Spring Rolls (chun guen)- rolled inside a thin flour skin and fried, they contain ingredients such as carrots, pork, shrimp, and Chinese mushrooms.

- Fried Turnip Cakes (lo bak gao)- mashed turnip cake with dried shrimp and pork, served with oyster sauce

- Pork and Shrimp Dumplings (siu mai)- a dim sum staple, are steamed dumplings with shrimp and pork fillings in a thin yellow rice-flour wrapper

- Spare Ribs in Black Bean Sauce (pai gwat)- bite size spare ribs marinated and steamed in black bean sauce

Two favorite dim sum dining rooms are the newly opened, and quite modern, Golden Bridge Restaurant, and the more traditional neighborhood gathering place, Jing Song. Jing Song seats over 1,000 people at a time and is often used for large Chinese banquette dinners and weddings. The ornate décor consists of large chandeliers, golden dragons, red velvet, and walls strewn with messages of wealth, prosperity, and longevity. Golden Bridge, however, is a more modern interpretation, with large flat screen TV's about, and a split dining room which can accommodate banquettes for well over 1,500 people- often serving dim sum to over 5,000 people on the weekend. With 4,000 square feet of kitchen space, and crowds that size, that's an awful lot of pork buns! Golden Bridge Restaurant, 50 Bowery (212) 227-8831 & Jing Song, 20 Elizabeth Street at Canal Street (212) 964-5256

Farmer's Markets have really taken off in our neck of the woods. Throughout the warm summer months, on into the crisp fall air, farmers from across the tri-state area have been dazzling us with their fresh produce, homemade baked goods, tree-picked apples, peaches, and pears, and even fresh water fish. For a weekend drive outside of the area, take I-95 south to I-287 west then 87 north, as all of you foodies out there will be thrilled to learn about Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, set on 80 acres of working farmland, on a renovated Rockefeller estate built in the 1930s. This is a non-profit venture with educational programs (cooking classes, lectures, gardening, etc...) being the focus, as well as a unique place to stroll, have lunch in the café, and buy farm fresh produce, eggs, and even pork and chicken during their farmer's market seasons. The greenhouse projects, as well as the free-ranging livestock program are one-of-a-kind offerings in the Hudson Valley area. The property also houses the popular Blue Hill at Stone Barns, an upscale restaurant that utilizes ingredients nurtured on the property. The secret is out about this exciting food destination! 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY, (914) 366 6200 www.stonebarnscenter.org

Did you think that L.A. Burdick Chocolate was just a catalogue/web driven chocolate store? Think again. These decadent handmade chocolates were created over 16 years ago by Larry Burdick who began making chocolates in New York City for a small number of fine restaurants and caterers. Now it's a booming business, shipping these artisan sweets throughout the country and abroad. The flagship store and café, located in Walpole, New Hampshire is brimming with European charm, savory pastries, steaming lattes, and their one-of-kind handmade chocolates. Their signature chocolate mice (dark mouse features a dark chocolate ganache with freshly squeezed orange - milk mouse features a milk and dark chocolate ganache with mocha - white mouse features a dark chocolate ganache with cinnamon) and penguins (hand piped ganaches of lemon and mocha and dipped in dark and milk chocolate and accented with a touch of white chocolate) are simply out of this world and make great party favors. LAB prides themselves on using only the best ingredients, just like with cooking, resulting in the best product possible. They import chocolate from France (Valrhona), Switzerland and Venezuela, mostly dark, which have higher cacao content. They are minimally sugared and use real vanilla, liqueurs, fresh butter, local milk and cream (no other fats or oils) in all of their preparations. The Walpole location also offers a French-style restaurant, making this scenic drive due north all the more worthwhile. The pristine town, all of 3 blocks, is home to numerous antique stores, art studios, local boutiques, and the nicest people around. That + chocolate = pure pleasure.L.A. Burdick Chocolate, 47 Main Street, Walpole, NH (603) 756-2882.

Harvard Square Café, 52-D Brattle Street, Cambridge, MA (617)491-4340

Northampton Café, 40 Green Street, Northampton, MA (413) 582-0477

Fairfield County is chock full of great specialty markets, high-end grocery stores, and unique culinary destinations such as Gilberties Herb Garden in Westport, Darien Cheese Shop, SoNo Seaport Seafood in Norwalk, and AS Fine Foods in Stamford, to name a few. So, are the days of one-stop-shopping a thing of the past? Do we really need to shop at several different stores to create just one (fantastic) meal? Bill McGowan, Vice President of store support for Balducci's Food Lover's Markets throughout CT, VA, MD, Washington D.C., and NY explains why their stores are often a cook's dream destination. "There are numerous items that our stores carry on a consistent basis that perhaps a more commercial grocery store would not stock, such as dry aged prime beef, breads from the best bread bakers in New York, hand culled Driscoll strawberries, Hay Day peanuts (To die for!), and Jacques Torres Chocolates (exclusive to Balducci's)." Keeping up with the seasonal produce is one of the store's strongest attributes. Mr. Spears Asparagus, heirloom tomatoes, fresh figs, CT corn, NY state apples, and even Amish Romonesco cauliflower are seasonal standouts. Some popular "short cut" items include triple washed baby spinach, exotic cut fruit, light-as-air meringues, and lots of gooey homemade dips and tangy tapenades. And those hard to find items are not so hard to find anymore, as with tamarind pulp for Indian dishes, Champagne vinegar, almond flour, slab bacon, jumbo green Cerignola olives, and pure French butter. Look for special store events, chef demonstrations, and daily food tastings too. Now there's concept- shop while you eat! 1385 Post Road East, Westport, (203) 254-5200, 1050 East Putnam Avenue, Greenwich, (203) 637-7600, 21 Governor Street, Ridgefield, (203) 431-4400

The experts (people who love to eat!) say that one should never deny themselves of food cravings. So, the next time you're in the mood for a real Jewish deli style corned beef on rye, I suggest you hop on Metro-North and head to Stage Deli on 7th Avenue between 53rd and 54th Streets. As for the best of the best, did someone say Vermont cheddar? Grafton Village Cheese Shop in Grafton Vermont is the only way to go! (www.Graftonvillagecheese.com). How 'bout a buttery lobster roll? Boston's Union Oyster House is the place to be. (www.unionoysterhouse.com). And the list goes on and on...

If you're feeling adventurous or just plain hungry, and want to see where everybody else shops for their favorite foods and satisfies those cravings, venture out and taste for yourself!

SoGoNow.com by: Linda Kavanagh on: 1:33 PM | What do you think? (0)

November 25, 2005

Raffles L'ermitage: Quiet Elegance In A Sea Of Hype

By Ron Kapon

Beverly Hills 90210: sunshine; movie stars; Rolls Royce; Rodeo Drive; "love you baby, love you;" "Lets do lunch"; cell phone mania; sunglasses; movie producer with his granddaughter or the reverse, with her grandson. All these images danced through my head as I checked into the Raffles L'Ermitage for my one day Beverly Hills energizer tour.

Editorial Note - I met the mayor of Beverly Hills, Thomas Levyn and representatives of most of the luxury hotels and the public relations agency that handles the Beverly Hills account a few months ago at a press luncheon. I mentioned I was going to be in California (northern and southern) for two weeks starting on Christmas day. I was offered one complimentary night at the Raffles L'Ermitage.

Beverly Hills is a 5.7 square mile city with 33,000 residents and 200,000 daytime visitors. It has over 900 retailers (over 100 on Rodeo Drive alone) and of course is the headquarters of many entertainment blockbusters.

Awarded the AAA 5-Diamond and Mobil Travel Guide 5 - Star rating for 2004, Raffles L'Ermitage is only 1 of 3 luxury hotels in America known as "Favorite Place to Stay" in the 2002 Travel & Leisure Magazine survey. Conde Nast Traveler Gold List calls the hotel a "Top 25 North American Hotel". Raffles International spent $60 million to transform the old L'Ermitage to its present condition.

Start with personal stationary and business cards and a private, direct number on my room telephone that bypasses the hotel operator, to three pre-set climate and lighting contrasts for each guest. Enough? - one button at my bed turned everything on and off and the insertion of my key into the lock re-sets everything to my preference.

Every room features English sycamore paneling and maple wood furnishings with a silk sham on my platform bed. There is a Mitsubishi 40-inch screen TV, DSL & wireless internet access, Bose speakers, audio/video DVD/CD player, a copier/printer/fax machine; 4 multi-line (3) telephones; Aveda bathroom amenities and more. My room (one of 111 plus 13 suites) had French doors and a private balcony overlooking the rich but pleasant area. The room was a generous 700 square feet, with a living room, work area, sitting area, walk-in closet and vanity area and a rack rate (at the time of my visit) of $450.

Although only a few blocks from Rodeo Drive, the surroundings were quiet and I never felt I was in a city hotel. There was a limo available to take guests to any part of Beverly Hills. It was raining and my small umbrella was not enough; of course, they lent me a Raffles "big" umbrella. Even the doorman called me by name each time I entered or left the hotel. I expected that from the telephone operator and front desk.

I did use the roof top fitness center, but not the spa or heated outdoor rooftop pool, as the 60 degrees outside temperature was a bit cold. There is also a complimentary DSL computer next to the concierge desk available 24 hours and no charge for high speed internet access throughout the hotel; ditto - there is no charge for 800 calls. Even the soft drinks and water in the mini-bar are included as complimentary.

What I also liked was the 24-hour flexible check in/ checks out policy. Check in at 8PM- you have until 8PM the next day (24 hours) to check out. I have never seen that policy in a hotel before. I did interview Chef Lopez of Jaan Restaurant (Sanskrit word for dish or bowl) for my radio show but did not accept their dinner invitation because of my desire to see Beverly Hills at night. The cuisine at Jaan is French-inspired that blends with modern California flavors.

I have stayed at many hotels in the luxury category that charge around the same prices as Raffles L'Ermitage. What I have never experienced was the total dedication to quality service and the little things that made this my top choice of any hotel in the 141 countries I have visited over the past 50 years.

TIP - the Beverly Hills Ambassadears - Official docents for the Beverly Hills Conference & Visitors Bureau took me on a 4 hour walking tour showcasing the culture & history of Beverly Hills. Visitors pay $80 for the 4 hours (I was comped). Donna, my docent, started our walk at the Regent Beverly Wilshire and discussed shopping, history, and architecture of her town. Donna was born in LA & moved to Beverly Hills when she was 6 months old. Please follow the walk with a 40 minute narrated trolley tour that departs from Rodeo & Dayton, but not when it rains. ($5 adults, $1 children under 12).

Went back to visit an old friend of 30 years- Dennis Overstreet at the Wine Merchant of Beverly Hills. For 32 years Dennis, known as wine merchant to the stars has run this shop, and added a new wine shop and restaurant in Newport Beach. The Wine Spectator named him one of the top 100 most influential people in the wine industry.
Old friends ... new-found treasure at the Raffles L'Ermitage ... a great visit to this area.

INFO -
L'Ermitage Hotel
www.lermitagehotel.com – (800) 800-22113

Beverly Hills Visitors Center
www.beverlyhillsbehere.com

Wine Merchant of Beverly Hills
winemerchantbh.com – (310) 278-7322

SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 1:53 AM | What do you think? (0)

November 23, 2005

Hidden Meadow Ranch: Rustic Beauty and Fine Linens in Arizona

By Leigh Cort

Hidden Meadow 006.jpgIf the ultimate luxurious mountain lodge is something you've only dreamed about, Hidden Meadow Ranch in Greer, Arizona is a must on every traveler's escape list. It's worth the 4-hour car ride from Phoenix or Tucson to get to this elite locale, settled by Mormons in 1879. The ride, interspersed with "Elk Crossing" signs, took us high into the Apache National Forest and the White Mountains, where the world's largest stand of Ponderosa pines surrounds the small towns nestled in the highland valleys.

Here, descendants of Hispanic settlers, European pioneers and the Apaches preserved a rare piece of America; a simpler less hectic spot that embraces cool summers with wildflower meadows, autumns framed by the glow of golden aspen trees, snowy yet sunshine-filled winters and springs full of budding trees with fields of purple iris.

827_3.jpgAlan, a cowboy on horseback, galloped over to greet us and then guided us to a luxurious log cabin-type lodge, custom designed for discriminating guests. The ranch is one-of-a-kind retreat that includes gourmet dining for a select few of about 60 or less. Guests can participate in personal horsemanship instruction; fly fishing on a spring-fed trout pond; tranquil canoe rides; Apache-guided nature hikes or swinging in a hammock surrounded by unspoiled serenity.

Hidden Meadow 005.jpgStrawberry Cactus, one of twelve cabins on the site, was spacious and included two bedrooms, a stone fireplace, premier rustic furnishings, fine linens, antiques and authentic western artifacts. The old-fashioned front and back porches had limitless views of the pine forests and meadows, which were welcomed retreats throughout the day. I awoke to a crackling fire and the cool mountain air as the sun tiptoed through my lodge windows early each morning. Recommended attire for this blissful stay is casual, although dress denim is recommended for dinner in the Ranch House.

Without question, Hidden Meadow has created a luxury lodging experience that perfectly complements the naturally secluded setting. It all comes with fabulous service. The professional staff anticipated every need. Special towels for cleaning dirty boots, turning down the beds, and stacking firewood in each cabin were only a few of the unanticipated yet greatly appreciated services. I especially enjoyed the nightly hand written notes on my pillow and the subdued lighting when I returned from dinner.

Planning for this type of vacation means packing light. Don't worry if you forgot your favorite boots; Hidden Meadow Ranch offers a vast collection to borrow for horseback or hiking. And the Mercantile cabin, a shop that blends an old-fashioned general store with the 21st century creature comforts, offers hats, boots, country clothing and more.

In an era of generational vacationing, Hidden Meadow Ranch is a great destination to share with the family. Whether parent, grandparent or a couple in love, being in the great outdoors and enjoying the simple pleasures of each other's company is easy. We tried fly-fishing, currying and riding horses, making a leather belt and dreaming by a campfire. Don't even think about watching television. Instead open the daily Good Morning list that arrives on the doorstep before breakfast and choose from a day of activities while reading a capsule of world news.

In addition to priding itself on its rustic heritage and wilderness location, Hidden Meadow's sophisticated dining graciously serves all meals in the Ranch House, a cavernous thick-beamed lodge with deer and elk trophies and plush leather sofas to sit and enjoy the impressive stone fireplace.

The heartiest appetites, or most selective, may indulge in Chef Robert Murphy's Mountain Cuisine for a casual breakfast, a leisurely or box lunch to take on the trail, or for a romantic candlelit dinner. Murphy really knows how to wow his guests with regional creative fare. "Cooking for my guests is a personal experience for me and only the best matters," Murphy said during our first dinner. The first evening we dined on Elk Tenderloin, marinated in achiote, a mild citrusy red spice from the Yucatan. The meat perfectly cooked meat was tender and flawlessly presented with roasted fingerling potatoes and Vidalia onions and served in a separate mini-bellini pan. We also shared Cornmeal Crusted Golden Trout, dressed with crispy threads of magenta spinach, followed by a warm, dark chocolate soufflé and fine Port.

A few of my favorites during the 4-day stay included: the pan-seared lump crab cake with avocado corn salad; a roasted poblano and tomatillo soup with lime crème fraiche and manchego cheese; a buffalo burger with sautéed mushrooms, smoked mozzarella and roasted garlic; and a chili-rubbed pork loin sandwich with cinnamon spiced apple and melted brie.

Roughing it in style also means taking care of little wranglers too. There is a 5:30 p.m. seating for small children. After their early meal, there are activities to keep them busy throughout mom and dad's dinner hour. Murphy's menus change seasonally with Southwest specialties prepared daily. His talent ranges from typical southwest specialties of Smoked Pork Soft Taco with Homemade Salsa to weekend campfires featuring their famous 'S'mores and Snifters,' something yummy for the kids and a bit of 'warming' alcohol for the adults.

Those fond of riding are in for the treat of a lifetime. Hidden Ranch owns well-trained horses that can be ridden by either a novice or an expert. We spent an unforgettable morning with Equestrian Director Erin, whose professional and caring horseback introduction to the Apache National Forest was a highlight of our stay. She discussed aspen groves, how elk tear away bark with their antlers, the remnants of bear claws on Arizona White and Ponderosa Pines. Canero Lake was so beautiful it was worth the 3-hour ride on 'Freckles' and 'Cowboy.' Surefooted enough so that we didn't have a care in the world, our mounts took us up and down steep rocks strewn through the forests. It could have been risky as a midday summer storm approached and then took its time passing. But with Erin's guidance and well-trained Appaloosas, Arabian and quarter horses, we were in capable hands.

Guests can choose from a variety of horses to blaze through the untamed mountain trails, the Knoll, Strawberry Canyon, or while riding through the meadows looking for bald eagles, wild turkey, coyotes, bobcats or elk.

As I bid Hidden Meadow Ranch goodbye, I knew I would always recall the grand mountains, untamed desert and a spirit of adventure that made the pioneers our heroes. Settling back into the airplane that took us home, the quiet was comforting. All I needed to remember was how the ranch captured a part of my spirit and passion for America, like no other love before it.

Hidden Meadow Ranch
Greer, Arizona
866-333-4080
www.hiddenmeadow.com 

   

SoGoNow.com by: Guest Author on: 11:41 AM | What do you think? (0)

November 21, 2005

Road Trip!: Unique Journeys Not Far From Home

By Linda Pernice Kavanagh

Let's see...where shall we go? Just for a night. Maybe two. Let's just get in the car and go! New York? Been there. Boston? Done that. How 'bout Nantucket? It's too crowded during the summer and too quiet through the off months. We want great food and wine, lots of shopping and exploring, a relaxing place to stay, and, above all, something different. With a search engine at my fingertips, AAA maps, and some great word-of-mouth suggestions, my favorite travel companion (my sweetheart) and I were off on a few New England road trip adventures.

My first "scoop" was a luxurious escape destination in Barnard, Vermont called Twin Farms. As we Twin Farms dining fire vert.JPGdrove our way up I-95 and I-91 north, approximately 230 miles to Route 12, we found ourselves at an unmarked iron gate where we (buzzed) announced our arrival. The exclusivity of this unique location was clear from the start. Situated on 300 acres of quintessential Vermont fields, mountains, lakes, and gardens, one is instantly at ease with the world. The concept behind this country oasis is simple; a retreat that combines lush accommodations (master suites, private cottages, blazing fireplaces, jaccuzi baths, and modern amenities) with first class service, and everything within your reach such as a game room and pub, fitness center with spa treatments, a Japanese furo (hot tub), ski slope, kayaking, fishing, hiking trails with a guide, and whatever your heart desires. There is never a need to leave the property.

The Main House, which serves as the hub of the property, complete with dining and living rooms, guest rooms and a library, was built in 1795 and was formerly the summer residence of the Hawaii-based Twigg-Smith family (private collectors of contemporary art). Each room/cottage has it's own personality, which is reflected through it's architecture and interior nuances, brilliantly designed by Jed Johnson and Alan Wanzenberg of New York City. An eclectic collection of artwork, antiques, fabrics, and furniture dazzles in each environment, whether it be whimsical, European, floral, or even with a canine motif! We stayed in the Orchard Room, an oriental theme with subtle colors and artwork, two fireplaces, and a large marble and stone-shower bathroom. Breathtaking views of the mountains and nature were all around us.

Price points reflect the entire experience from beginning to end- superlative. The room reservation is The Castle Guest Suite.jpgall inclusive of fabulous four-star meals, wines/spirits, activities, and lots of little extras throughout. No tipping is necessary and requests are met with ease. Chef Neil Wigglesworth prepares daily menus that are paired with the appropriate wines. The food is based on local ingredients with clean preparations. Guests simply fill out a form, which notifies the chef of any requests or dietary restrictions. As for us, we were game for anything! A romantic evening in the main living room found us alone with a fireplace, candlelit table, an attentive staff, and a fabulous meal featuring superb varietals from their 26,000-bottle wine cellar.

Needless to say, bidding farewell was hard to do. So much so in fact, we took our room key home with us! A sheer sign of the denial we were in. Route 12, Barnard, VT, (800) 894-6327  www.Twinfarms.com

But, how 'bout something closer to home, something quaint and off the beaten path? One of our favorite hobbies is wine collecting. We could have ventured up through the Finger Lakes region of New York, but that was a bit farther than we wanted to go. We decided on New Hope, Pennsylvania and Frenchtown, New Jersey, bordering Bucks County neighborhoods that house a few soon-to-be popular wineries, charming bread & breakfasts, lots of antiquing, and beautiful scenic drives along the Delaware River. 118 miles south on I-287 to Route 202 and then Route 32, my true map of the area was found on a great web site called thefrenchtowner.com, as well as newhopepa.com. Both lead us to a cozy nights stay, New England's signature comfort foods, and a few vineyards that were at opposite ends of the grape vine.

Frenchtown, New Jersey is, as the web site says, a "funky little town" that is full of culture, art, warmth and hospitality. Unique shops, local cafes, and a diverse residential population of 1,500 or so, makes up this delightful artisan destination. After a day of sightseeing and shopping we headed back out onto Rt 32 to Indian Rock Inn and Restaurant for a hearty "New England meets the Mediterranean" style meal. This is definitely where the locals hang out- sing and socialize over a cocktail or two and unwind from the day...as we did- minus the singing. www.thefrenchtowner.com

breakfast at Chestnut hill.JPGTime to rest up after our drive and a chilly day of gallivanting around town. We landed at Chestnut Hill, a lovely bed and breakfast situated on the Delaware River in the tiny town of Milford. Owned and operated by Linda and Rob Castagna, it was obvious that this was no ordinary B&B. Plush accommodations included private baths (Jaccuzi bath, heated floors/towel racks, and nice amenities), flat screen TV, and a to-die-for four-poster bed (one of the best night's sleep we've ever had) with cotton quilts and soft sheets. Each Chestnut Hill Guest Room photo by Paul Bartholomew .jpgroom was absolutely darling, as were our hosts. There is plenty of privacy and everything is made quite convenient for a comfortable stay. The next morning we awoke to a scrumptious breakfast of stuffed French toast and we were on our way to the vineyards!

63 Church Street, Milford, NJ, (888) 333-2242 www.Chestnuthillnj.com

So, over the bridge we went, into Bucks County, PA. Our first View of the Delaware River from Chestnut Hill.JPGstop was to see Joseph Maxian at Sand Castle Winery. Joseph's Czechoslovakian lineage in winemaking plays a major role in his knowledge and passion for the art of wine making. As a seasoned viticulturalist, Joseph recognized that the Pennsylvania land and climate was prime for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling grapes on the same field. Today, Sand Castle is one of the few wineries exclusively growing European vines on the East Coast. In 1988 this 72-acre estate released their first vintage to the public. We had a blast in the underbelly (30-feet down) of this operation where large stainless steel vats and oak barrels age the wines to perfection. The next phase for Joseph is the construction of his dream chateau, a mammoth undertaking that will house a tasting room, special events rooms, outdoor patio overlooking the river and vineyard, as well as touring facilities for Joseph's exciting wine symposiums. Sand Castle Winery is a must see, and taste!

755 River Road, Rt 32, Erwinna, PA, (800) 722-9463 www.Sandcastlewinery.com

Next, working our way through the "hippy" village of New Hope, PA, we came upon Crossing Vineyards. The polar opposite of Sand Castle, Crossing Vineyards is brand-spankin' new (established in 2000- first vintage in 2002) and practices more modern, state-of-the-art wine making. Tom Carroll Jr, formerly an actor in California, convinced his parents, Tom Sr. and Christine, to join him in this venture, a dream he had to own and operate a vineyard in his hometown. Housed on 15 acres and in a 200-year-old estate, the Carrolls have created a contemporary winery and event venue that produces "true to the land" wines (on the light side) and educates people to the fabulous world of food and wine and how they should be enjoyed together. 1853 Wrightstown Road, Washington Crossing, PA,(215)493-6500 info@crossingvineyards.com

For more information on Pennsylvania wineries and special events, check out www.pennsylvaniawine.com

New Hope, PA (still on Route 32) is a colorful little community of streets lined with gingerbread style boutiques, galleries, antique stores, small eateries, and quaint inns. Yes, there is a Starbucks in town, but here it doesn't seem to matter. A bit tired from exploring and driving (and sipping wine) we decided to settle in at The Mansion Inn, a 1865 Victorian manor home with creaky wooden floors, crystal chandeliers, floor to ceiling windows with billowy drapes, and stunning archways. Our room had a simple grace about it, full of antique furnishings, lacey linens and a pristine bathroom. After our complimentary champagne cocktail, we enjoyed an elegant dinner of saucisson en croute, monkfish Osso Bucco, veal tenderloin with crab imperial, and a warm bread pudding with brandy cream sauce. Homemade cookies and a glass of sherry greeted us back in our room. A good night's sleep was next on our list. 9 South Main Street, New Hope, PA, (215) 862-1231 www.themansioninn.com

Talk about a great find right in your own backyard! Neighboring Westchester County, yes, that's right, Tarrytown and Pleasantville to be exact, have some truly exciting destinations as well as a few simple stops worth the drive. Taking 95 south to I-287 west to the Saw Mill River Parkway, a neat little gem is Prospero Winery, a family owned and operated winery and shop featuring California born grape varietals. Melissa Prospero runs the operation locally and promotes what she calls " every day wine for every day people." The wines are quite good and come from family recipes minus the made-in-the-basement varietals! Many of the wines are aged on the property. Bottling begins in September. Have a taste - you'll be pleasantly surprised. 134 Marble Avenue, Pleasantville, NY (914)769-6870 

Taking I-95 south to I-287 west then 87 north, all of you foodies out there will be thrilled to learn about Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, set on 80 acres of working farmland, on a renovatedStone brook farms greenhouse interior.jpg Rockefeller estate built in the 1930s. This is a non-profit venture with educational programs (cooking classes, lectures, gardening, etc...) being the focus, as well as a unique place to stroll, have lunch in the café, and buy farm fresh produce, eggs and poultry during their farmer's market seasons. The greenhouse projects as well as the free-ranging livestock program are one-of-a-kind offerings in the Hudson Valley area. The property also houses the popular Blue Hill at Stone Barns, an upscale restaurant that utilizes ingredients nurtured on the property. The secret is out about this exciting destination! 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY, (914) 366 6200 www.Stonebarnscenter.org

It is time to relax, absorb the day and look forward to the evening. We get back on I-287 and take exit 1 in Tarrytown and wind our way up the driveway to The Castle on the Hudson, a majestic 125-year-old castle turned luxury hotel and restaurant (Equus) overlooking the Hudson River. This is the ideal romantic escape, complete with spacious guest room suites, over-sized beds, and lavish bathrooms, fireplaces, and rich furnishings. Live jazz serenaded us in the lounge as we sipped cocktails before dinner. I thought this to be more of a corporate destination, but was pleasantly surprised to see couples enjoying dinner and families and friends gathering. Dinner in the garden room, prepared by Executive Chef David Haviland, included a melt-in-your-mouth tuna tartar Napoleon, escargot bouillabaisse style with wild mushrooms, tender veal sweetbreads with lentils, fresh broiled branzini with salmon roe and spaghetti vegetables, and a decadent pineapple tempura for dessert. The wine list is iThe Castle Fish Dish.JPGncredible and the service is right on. Special events, wine makers dinners, and cooking classes are constantly being added to their calendar. I can be really corny here and say that we felt like a king and queen during our visit...but, you get the idea. 400 Benedict Avenue, Tarrytown, NY (914) 631-1980 www.Castleonthehudson.com


Also be on the lookout for The Greater New York Wine & Food Expo in Lyndhurst in October (888) 454-3011 www.thejournalnews.com/wine/general.html

www.Westchestertourism.com

Back on I-287 west to I-87 north then onto Route 9 north, approximately 190 miles in total, my boyfriend and I headed to the horseracing town of Saratoga Springs, New York. This Victorian town with tons of history dating back to the 1700s is brimming with museums, parks, spas, cozy bistros, shops, and inns. The exciting Saratoga Racetrack season runs from July-September, in tangent with their Polo season, one of oldest polo clubs in the nation and a favorite Saratoga pastime dating back to the 1890s. Visitors take heed, this tiny village turns into a raging metropolis in peak season- one needs to plan accordingly. Upon entering town we stopped at Beverly's for lunch (47 Phila Street). Can I just say that every town should have a Beverly's! This petit luncheonette brought me back to my childhood (remember Woolworth's counter seating on Greenwich Avenue?) with simple comfort foods, local patrons, and the best cream of broccoli soup I have ever had! A comfortable and convenient place to stay is the Saratoga Arms, an 1870 Second Empire brick hotel, located on Broadway in the heart of the historic downtown district. Guest rooms boast period pieces as well as more modern amenities. A hearty breakfast is included so you're fueled for a day of placing those bets! For dinner we dined at Springwater Bistro, the Saratoga Polo Club caterer, Chef David Britton's, popular dining and gathering spot.

This is New England fare at it's best, including the rustic charm.

497 Broadway, Saratoga Springs, New York (518) 584-1775 www.Saratogaarms.com

139 Union Avenue, Saratoga Springs, NY, (518) 584-6440 www.Springwaterbistro.com

www.Saratogaracetrack.com and www.Saratogapolo.com

I love Newport, Rhode Island. So easy to get to (140 miles, I-95 north to Route 138 east over the Jamestown/Newport bridges), this waterfront tourist town has always been a fun place to be for Sakonnet grapes.jpgsummer beaches, autumn mansion tours, and holiday festivities. For this article I thought it was a bit too mainstream, that is until my contact at the Newport Conventions and Visitor's Bureau suggested that my friend and I venture 15 minutes outside of Newport proper into Tiverton Four Corners, a rural village dating back to the seventeenth century. Here, historic houses, fine art and antique galleries, gourmet food and several wineries can keep one busy for an entire day. We absolutely adored a scrumptious gourmet food shop called the Milk & Honey Bazaar (3838 Main Road). We were in smelly cheese heaven! Charcuterie favorites such as prosciutto di Parma, along with fresh breads, tapenades, Sakonnet Tasting Room Bar.jpgand accoutrements made for a fabulous picnic to take with us to Sakonnet Vineyards & Winery. This 25-year old vineyard highlights their estate grown grapes featuring such local varietals as the vidal blanc. Up the road at Greenvale Vineyards we enjoyed the 2001 Skipping Stone White, a blend of Cayuga and Vidal Blanc. Our last stop was Newport Vineyards, the most modern of them all. All of these wineries feature group tours, wine tastings, special events, live music, and a highly anticipated chef series. It's worth checking out their web sites. What could be better than a bottle of wine, great food, and live jazz in the middle of a vineyard? Nothing.

www.Milkandhoneybazaar.com

www.Sakonnetwine.com

www.Greenvale.com

www.Newportvineyards.com

Chanler with Ocean View.jpgEnjoying our anonymity from Newport proper, we decided to hide away at The Chanler at Cliff Walk, a sophisticated European style mansion overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, bordering the last yard of Newport before crossing the line into Middletown. Estate and manor style rooms feature private patios, outdoor hot tubs, comfy beds, gorgeous bathrooms with porcelain vanities and marble showers, first class service, and a tranquil atmosphere. My friend and I chuckled realizing that these rooms are indeed meant for couples on a romantic holiday. That's okay we decided - we're worth it! With that said, we also treated ourselves to an extravagant dinner at the equally extravagant Castle Hill Chanler Room 1.jpgInn & Resort located on the west end of Newport's world renowned Ocean Drive. This oceanfront restaurant is lead by Chef Casey Riley, one of the island's most prestigious chefs. Known for their elaborate weddings and signature wine dinner series, we indulged in everything from native lobster to New York foie gras, seared Georges Bank scallops to Ridgefield Farms beef short ribs braised in Newport Storm Porter, and ended with Belgian chocolate and Grand Marnier soufflé with Tahitian vanilla crème. Need I say more?

117 Memorial Boulevard, Newport, RI (401)847-1300 www.Thechanler.com

590 Ocean Drive, Newport, RI, (888) 466.1355 www.Castlehillinn.com & www.Gonewport.com

No passports, planes, security check points, or tourist books needed. Fill the tank up with gas, grab your travel companion (and a map), and just GO! No need to forward your calls, check email, or find somebody to cover you at work- you won't be gone long to fall behind, but you will feel like you're on vacation!

Quick Tips For Quick Trips:

Web sites rock! Contact visitor's bureaus and chamber of commerce sites. Check out special event calendars especially.

Off-season may shock you. Better prices, smaller crowds, and lots of surprises. There's more going on than you think.

Ask for recommendations while at your various destinations- local businesses support each other and take special care of word-of-mouth visitors/customers.

Spur of the moment trips are a blast, but a little planning will go a long way. Have the basics planned out, such as a place to stay and the directions!

Some favorite and handy sites:

www.Escapemaker.com

www.Onlyinn.com

SoGoNow.com by: Linda Kavanagh on: 3:34 PM | What do you think? (0)

November 14, 2005

Yachtsmen Without Yachts

While it's wonderfully possible to be an aimless wanderer among the islands of the Pacific, it must be remembered that nearly all island groups insist that visitors be able to support themselves and are in possession of ongoing tickets. In short, the once common status of being a penniless "beachcomber" is no longer permitted.

So - considering all the above - let's suppose that a reasonably solvent traveler has been drawn to the myriad islands of the South Pacific or South East Asia, and that - he or she - has a keen interest in boats that move among these bits of land. Such a person is often defined as being a "yachtsman without a yacht,"and such a person will, almost surely be looking for a piece of sea going action. Being of similar persuasion, my modest success at setting out to sea on other people's boats prompts me to offer a measure of advice and encouragement.

First of all, in the district center of any island group, or town where land touches the sea, there's likely to be a marina or yacht club. And in these places - unless the club is very private, very posh - visitors will be welcomed by boat owners who are happy to talk with kindred spirits.

Better yet, some of these folks may offer more than just conversation.

As case in point I once strolled among the forest of masts on the docks of the Ala Wai Marina in Honolulu and fell into conversation with the crew of a 35 foot sloop who were loading nourishment onto that vessel. My interest must have been seen as enthusiasm, for I was invited to join them for the afternoon sail. We were only gone for two hours but during that time the matter of long distance voyaging came up and with it the possibility of becoming a crew member was approached. The