December 31, 2005
A Journey Through Quebec's Tourist Townships
by Habeeb Salloum
The cool crispness of an autumn day seemed to energize me as we boarded a bus in
Some 80 km (50 mi) from
Now as our bus entered the Townships, from my comfortable seat, I surveyed the surrounding countryside. A kaleidoscope of colours enveloped the scene, bathing the landscape with an inviting aura. It was a panorama of seductive natural beauty.
As we drove along, the level farmlands leading to rolling hills, whose slopes in many cases were covered with orchards and vineyards hiding charming farmhouses, round barns, covered bridges and distinctive villages. It was a rustic scene of rural enchantment.
The Townships, noted for their fabulous food, unique historical architecture, neat country villages and natural beauty- 80% of the Townships are wooded -
are set in a North American, yet European world. This background gives them a very special appeal for both national and foreign visitors.
The original inhabitants of the Townships were the Abenaki Indigenous Peoples. Today, they are still remembered by the place names for the lakes and rivers they left behind, such as Coaticook, Memphremagog and Massawippi. After the American Revolution, British loyalists fled to this area in
By the 1850s the French-speaking Quebecois began to settle in the area and at the turn of the 1900s they had become the majority in most of the Townships. Today, 94% of the inhabitants are Francophone and visitors will find French-Canadian culture everywhere, giving them a feeling of traveling through
The atmosphere of 
Head- all about a half hour from each other. In spring the budding countryside, invigorating air and the awareness of summer's approach imbue in travellers a feeling of elation.
In summer the fruit-laden orchards, vineyards and the inviting outdoors, made enchanting by the region's crystal-clear lakes, good fishing and world-class hotels and resorts, are sirens, luring the wayfarer into their loving embrace. The Townships have developed a reputation for their tourist abodes, which offer some of the best accommodations in the world.
Even more alluring are the autumn months, the time that we were traveling, with its gorgeous cascades of colours. During this time of the year, the operations of a dozen wineries are in full swing. Events featuring local food products, along with the region's cider and wine proliferate the countryside and towns and French-Canadian hospitality overflows, crowning the marvels of the autumn season.
With only a few days to spare, travellers do not have time to explore the whole of the Townships. Like us they select only a few of the many goodies offered by the Townships to sample.
Our first stop was at the Pinnacle de Glacé, located on the slopes of
After Jennifer, the spokeswoman for the Pinnacle, gave us an explanation of how ice cider is produced, we tasted their tasty sparkling product, then left for the nearby Cidrerie Fleurs de Pommiers, one of the six cider-producing farms in
As we sipped on l'Orpailleur's wine, one of our group remarked, "I've had enough! The cider and wine producers are too generous. Let's now dine! The drinks have aroused my hunger pangs." We all agreed. The wine had unlocked our appetites.
For the next two days we sampled much more of the Townships' offerings as we drove back and forth through the wooded and lake dotted landscape. Among the most memorable of our stops was the Chocolate
Michel Bilodeau, the Museum's guide, after giving us an overview of the history of chocolate as well as the Festival, said that during the spring of 2005, craftsmen will be working on some 55 sculptures made from chocolate- most weighing over 100 kilos each. As we turned to leave, he remarked, "Imagine the attraction this will have for children!"
To me, vying in appeal with the
A part of our tour that was unique was the short trip to Stanstead on the
A few minutes later, I was staring at a painted black line on the main floor in the Haskell's Library and Opera House, dividing the U.S.A. and Canada thinking, "The folly of humans dividing the world as they see fit is clearly shown in this library." Yet, it made for another photo-shoot session. A woman in our group being photographed by the others lying on the floor atop the dividing line ended our visit.
Much more interesting and thrilling was taking the sky lift to the top of Mont Orford- a part of the Appalachian Mountain range in the
It was a stunning sight. The valleys and hills below were a kaleidoscope of brilliant colours, from fiery red to pale yellow. The whole aura of the landscape was a picture postcard of stunning beauty and I stood in awe at the handiwork of nature. It made for a thrilling climax to our last day's meandering amid autumn's fantastic scenery.
All during our travelling throughout the Townships, I never ceased to be thrilled by the deep blue waters of some of the lakes we saw- a few of the 236 in the region. This splendour of nature was greatly enhanced by some 500 quaint cafes and fine restaurants, as well as many inns that dot the countryside and towns. In these oases of food and rest we often stopped to snack or dine, adding much to the enjoyment of our tour.
The ultimate of these stopovers was the fine dining and accommodation at the Manoir Hovey and Auberge Hatley Inn, located near each other on the shores of
For families and nature lovers, the Townships are a great playground. However, for some young men and women, there is something missing- the nightlife of nearby
A young lady hearing this smiled, "The young might yearn for the city life, but I much prefer the joys of the outdoors and the county charms of this tourist mecca."
IF YOU GO
How to Get There:
The Townships are easily accessible from
Two Good Places to Stay and Eat:
There are some 400 hotels, inns and Bread and Breakfast abodes in the Eastern Townships. From
these, my choices are:
Manoir Hovey:
A comfortable and well-run inn, offering excellent food and fine services, 575,chemin Hovey, North Hatley, (Quebec) J0B 2C0. Tel: (819) 842-2421 / (800) 661-2421. Fax: (819) 842-2248. Web Site: www.manoirhovey.com Email: manhovey@manoirhovey.com
Auberge Hatley Inn:
A cozy and comfortable place where to stay and a fine place to eat. Tourism Québec awarded its restaurant the 'best restaurant in Quebec'. 325, ch. Virgin,
Another Excellent Place to Eat:
Auberge Quilliams:
Here one can dine on fine lunches and dinners in a relaxed atmosphere surrounded by a wondersous scenic countryside. 572, chemin
For more Information:
Tel: 1 (800) 355-5755, or see Web Site www.cantonsdelest.com
SoGoNow.com by: Habeeb Salloum on: 5:28 PM | What do you think? (2)
December 29, 2005
Kilimanjaro: A trek to the top...
In a word, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain and the highest freestanding mountain in the 
world, is simply majestic. It does wonders to one's imagination, just as it has captured the inspiration of millions over the centuries. And, as we know, Ernest Hemingway frequently found a place for it in his romantic works. Its snowcapped peak can be seen from as far away as 100 miles. Yet, its splendor may seem strangely located when one realizes it is situated near the earth's equator.
Before I ever even visited Africa, I had asked myself the question, "Why would I want to climb this giant?" It would possibly be more prudent if not more sensible to simply photograph the mountain's beauty from a distance. However, the ultimate lure for me was that Mt. Kilimanjaro is there for novice adventurers and not just expert, seasoned mountain climbers like Mt. Everest. No ropes, pitons or snap links would be required. However, in their place would be the demand for stamina, endurance, determination, fitness and desire.
As I arrived at the charming Kibo Hotel located at the base of Mt.Kilimanjaro, there was an air of excitement as descending climbers began to celebrate their accomplishments. The impromptu festivities were not only infectious but provided the adrenaline and determination for those who were facing their maiden attempt at the mountain.
The plaque over the entrance of Kibo Hotel informed all visitors that in August 1988, President Jimmy Carter was a hotel guest. My initial thoughts were: "If President Carter could do it, I can do it!"
After years of adventure travel, I prepare myself for most eventualities that may require first-aid. And now, I would probably also face a new malady, high altitude sickness. However, I had the foresight to bring with me a preventive medicine for such a problem. In addition, articles that I had read informed me to drink lots of water and take each stage of the climb as slowly as possible ? never rush.
Each day I would be climbing about 3,000 feet; therefore, my body had to be in continual adjustment to new altitudes and changes in breathing. I really felt I was never more prepared and kept telling myself, "I know I can do it!" In any event, it was now too late to change my mind. "The die had been cast".
I learned from the hotel manager who was also in charge of the climb that weather conditions on the top of Mt.Kilamanjaro could include strong winds and temperatures of 10C. Again, previous adventures similar to the one on which I was embarking had taught me that it is always better to be too warm than too cold. I now rechecked and repacked my gear before spending a restless night of anticipation.
After breakfast the following morning, I was introduced to my guide, William, and the three porters who would carry all of my gear in addition to theirs. They would also have to manage all the food for the entire journey as well as the wood, oil and kerosene for the preparation of our cooking facilities in the mountain huts on our ascent. At about 10:00 a.m., we were driven a short distance to the Marangu Park Gate at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro where I would to register for the climb. We were now already at an altitude of 6,000 feet.
A guide and usually three porters comprise a "team" that accompanies each climber to the absolute summit of the entire African Continent. However, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, even with a team, is most definitely an individual challenge and certainly not a group effort.
From the start, I did not expect to be spoiled. And, my expectations were confirmed when we began our climb in a drizzle. I had already slipped on my rain gear as we began to climb through the tangled rain forest. The early stages took us through the heavy moss that clung to the trees. Our scenery included forests of rotting tree trunks in a myriad of stages of decomposition. Numerous rocks of all shapes and sizes contributed to making the climb more like an infiltration course presenting varying degrees of both hardship and difficulty.
My porters were obviously conditioned to the environment, therefore, they moved at a much faster pace than William and I. In fact, they arrived at our first stop an hour and a half before us. However, before we even started the climb, we had to reach an understanding. That understanding was rather self-evident in that the "team" would set its pace according to how well I became acclimated to the changes in altitude. My linguistic abilities were also on the rise. I found myself frequently saying "Pole ?pole" which in Swahili translates into "Slowly-slowly".
During the ascent of Mt. Kilamanjaro, we encountered numerous climbing parties. Some were going up while others were coming down. The various parties seemed to represent most of the world's nationalities. Therefore, the common language for communicating seemed to gravitate to Swahili. "Jambo" means "Hello" and "Habari?" means, "How are you?" My vocabulary also contained the words "Mzuri" for "Fine"; "Asante" or "Thank you", and the common expression, "Makuna Matata" -- "No Problem".
Affectionately, I referred to my guide as "My William". In return, his appellation for me was "Mama". William was a most kind and gentle man who had a wonderful sense of humor and was always willing to help less fortunate people who were having difficulties along the way.
It was at an elevation of 9,000 feet, some ten miles from our start, we had now arrived at the Mandara Hut, our first stop. Our trek had taken about four hours. There were several Norwegian style "A" frame huts located at each major stop for sleeping and eating. It was no surprise that they were unheated and contained little else than thin mattresses. One of the centrally located huts was designated for eating. Among his many other chores, it was now William's task to prepare our first evening meal.
Huts were assigned to climbers as they arrived. "First come ? first served". One never knew who his or her "hut-mates" would be! Here was not the time or place to pick or choose or demand special treatment.
At this altitude, it becomes very, very cold once the sun has set. The only salvation is to retire to one's warm sleeping bag. Early the following morning, I was awakened by the sound of William's knock. He had brought with him a basin of hot water and a cup of tea.
After breakfast in the eating hut, we prepared ourselves for day two of the climb. The previous forests of lichen-covered trees soon disappeared and were replaced with a rolling meadow of giant heather trees. It became obvious that we were on the assent. Moorlands covered with high tussocks of grass, giant Senecio plants and lobelias soon replaced the heather trees. Over the many centuries, these plants have had to adapt to the extreme fluctuations in temperature.
The next ten miles would demand more time. In fact, it would now take an extra hour. Five in total. Our next destination was Horombo Hut at an altitude of 12,340 feet, more than two miles high.
Because of the freezing temperatures, I replaced my windbreaker with down jacket and thermal underwear. It was at this point in the climb that many people suffered from high altitude sickness. The symptoms were obvious: terrific headaches, nausea and difficulty in breathing. From here on, the "drop-out" rate of climbers would increase. I was informed that only 20% of those who embark upon the climb actually make it to the summit. As for my personal condition, I was feeling fine. Walking was somewhat difficult but not impossible. At night I was very, very tired; however, the long sleeps seemed to rejuvenate me.
This night was particularly cold and stormy. However, I awoke to a beautiful sunny sky and a thin layer of new snow. As I surveyed the view, for the very first time, I could now see the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Trees, clouds or the overcast at lower elevations no longer obscured my view. It was a spectacular sight and well worth the effort to be where I was. I knew immediately that it would be worth the upcoming difficulties to reach the top. All I had to do was to remain healthy for two more days.
My planning was paying off. I was taking the high altitude sickness preventive medicine. I was drinking plenty of water and keeping warm. I had comfortable shoes and, of course, I kept my walking pace down to "slowly-slowly". From here on up, the landscape would become progressively more rugged and rocky, almost replicating the surface of the moon.
Now into our third day, we were beginning another ten-mile climb; this time to Kibo Hut. Slower walking meant adding another half-hour to the journey. Now at an altitude of 15,520 feet, the temperature was remaining -10 C. "Drop outs" were on the increase. More and more climbers were "calling it a day" and reversing their direction. As for me, I was very, very cold and tired when we arrived at Kibo Hut. However, this would be a BIG night for me!
Tonight was the night that I would actually climb to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. This was the night that I would reach Gillman's Point, 18,750 feet or die trying!
Kibo Hut is the highest and last rest stop. It is different from the others because there were dormitory accommodations. We arrived at about 3:00 p.m. and now our task was to prepare for the final ascent of Africa's highest mountain. It would truly be my "BIG NIGHT".
To prepare for the climb, it was essential I get some rest in my warm sleeping bag.
The number of climbers had now dwindled to the point where there were only two young Germans to share the large stone dormitory.
After I have rested for a few hours, 'My William" served me some hot tea. The dinner he had prepared was goulash. We ate early because we had to get some more sleep before our midnight "wake-up" call. For me there wasn't too much sleep because I was too excited. Next to my sleeping bag, I had neatly laid out all my clothes I would need for the event of my life.
My head was in turmoil. There was excitement, worry, anticipation, apprehension ? just about everything. My breathing became quicker. And now I had to keep telling myself over and over that I was going to succeed. I also had to calm down and think clearly.
At midnight, William arrived with a candle and hot tea. It was now time to get dressed and have a light snack of bread and jam. We were going to summit!
The group of remaining climbers set off under a brilliant African sky full of stars and the occasional shooting comet. The final ascent was very steep. We zigged and zagged. And, at this high altitude we had to do it even more slowly and in single file. We were no longer trekking. We were plodding.
Breathing deeply, I took only five tiny steps at a time. Then, rest. Five more tiny steps. More rest. More breathing. Five more steps. Stop. Rest. Breathe. Then, I would repeat the sequence. Progress was unbelievably slow but at least it was steady.
The thin air played heavily on the remaining climbers. Even at this point so close to the summit, some actually chose to "call it quits". It became more difficult to breath and it seemed like we were not advancing. I kept talking to myself. I developed a mental rhythm that would maintain my cadence: one, two, three, four, five, rest. One, two, three, four, five, rest again. Over and over ? again and again! I had made myself a victim of my own carrot and stick. If I could make the five, tiny steps ? then I was rewarded with a rest. Punishment, then reward.
It was windy, freezing and I was climbing at a very steep angle. And, I had been doing this for more than five hours. But, it was now only minutes from daybreak. The dark sky soon became a gorgeous pink as the sun appeared over the horizon. What a beautiful and spectacular sight. It was sunrise over the entire Continent of Africa. But, there still was a long way to the summit ? to my destination.
After taking some photos, I "Hit the Wall", an expression used by long distance runners when they face almost total exhaustion. It was now light and I was not making any progress. I kept mentally asking myself, "Should I give up?" I had already seen the sunrise. I was beginning to rationalize quitting. My mind was really playing tricks. "Why go any further?" "I'm already at the top!" It would be such a reward to stop killing myself. I was completely out of breath. I thought I would never make it.
William became my inspiration. He kept encouraging me to go on. He kept saying, "Not too much longer, Mama." I now forced myself to take longer periods between steps before I was entitled to the reward of rest. I was at the point of total exhaustion as well as total frustration. Then William said, "Look! There it is! Only five minutes and you are there!" I couldn't believe it. I kept going, but the final minutes were plodding and crawling ? definitely not walking. And then, I am not certain if I screamed out loud or silently to myself, but I know I screamed:
" I MADE IT! I MADE IT TO GILMAN"S POINT! I WAS AT THE HIGHEST POINT IN AFRICA - MY GOAL! I REALLY MADE IT! I ACTUALLY CONQUERED MT. KILIMANJARO!"
After the traditional signing of the book on the summit and taking a few more photos, we started heading back down the mountain. I could now face the downward journey with a new strength of achievement. My earlier sagging spirits were now completely replaced with a sense of exhilaration and accomplishment.
We had reached Gilman's Point, 18.750 feet on Labor Day at 8:00 a.m. It was truly a "labor day" for me. It now took only two and a half hours to descend from Gilman's Point to Kibo Hut. There we were greeted with the cheer from the porters and glasses of orange juice. We rested for an hour and then proceeded downwards to Horobo Hut for a well-deserved night's sleep.
As I reflected on my accomplishment, I also declared today as the most exhausting day of my life. I seem to have had many other exhausting days to also reflect upon; however, this is one day I will never forget.
The morning came way too soon. I was awakened at 6:00 a.m. for the final day's descent to Kibo Hotel. It was another beautiful day. Of course, I was beaming from ear to ear and anxious to tell everyone I saw that I actually made it to Gilman's Point.
The walk took seven hours. We were now walking quite rapidly and we stopped only once for a brief lunch at Mandara Hut.
Upon reaching the entrance to the park, my legs hurt so much that I could hardly walk. I hadn't realized that coming down the mountain would be so much more strenuous on my legs than going up. I had trekked a total of 50 miles in five days. Could anyone possibly believe it? Could I believe it? I actually conquered the highest point on the Continent of Africa, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
I was now back at the Kibo Hotel. I was looking forward to a wonderful shower followed by a light meal. Of course, I had to say my good-byes to William and my three porters ? my team.
It was without a doubt the happiest and proudest day of my life. I had one of the most wonderful, natural "highs" of my life and I know it will be a very long time before my total inebriation of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro will subside.
More about the Kilimanjaro Climb
There are five official routes to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro varying from 5 to 9 days. Umbwe, Machame, Shira and Rongai are the four routes from the southwest and north that require camping in tents.
The Manangu route is on the east side of the mountain and is the most used trail with approximately 10,800 climbers per year. It is nicknamed "Coca Cola" because of its popularity and lower cost. There are three rest stops with hut complexes at 9,000, 12,340 and 15,450 feet.
I chose the popular Manangu Route to the top. There, climbers reach Gilman's Point at 18,760. Climbers on the other routes arrive at Uhuru Peak a few hundred feet higher.
Booking can be made from the cities of Moshi and Arusha in Tanzania. In the United States, it is recommended to go through one of the many adventure travel companies to guarantee a place, especially during the busy seasons. The less busy times are in the rainy months of April, May and November.
Your Africa Guide:
Adventure Travel Companies
Wilderness Travel
Visit Wilderness Site
Visit This Site
www.wildernesstravel.com
800-368-2794
Mountain Travel / Sobek
Visit Mountain Travel's Site
www.mtsobek.com
info@mtsobek.com
888-687-6235
Thompson Safaris
800-235-0289
Visit Thompson Safaris
www.thompsonsafaris.com
Carol Herdegen is the editor and travel consultant for her site www.TravelSite.com
SoGoNow.com by: Carole Herdegen on: 10:36 PM | What do you think? (1)
December 28, 2005
Houston- Space City USA
By Ron Kapon
If you plan ahead, now is the time to get your Super Bowl tickets. The game will take place in the brand new Reliant Stadium in Houston. If you checked Sports Network.com you would have realized that the expansionist Houston Texans beat the "hated" Dallas Cowboys. When we visited Houston recently and toured the stadium with officials from the Texan organization (The Houston Oilers left for Tennessee after the 1996 season) that is all they talked about. "Our first season is already a success". But, there is more than football in Houston. There is basketball (NBA Rockets and WNBA Comets), with their new downtown arena scheduled to open in 2003; baseball (Astros), Soccer (Aeros), and the biggest spectator sport in Houston, the rodeo and livestock show. More of the sports scene later.
Let us start with the statistics, most of which were new to me: Fourth largest city in the US with almost five million people in the metro area; named after general Sam Houston (I knew that); over 39 million visitors-65% of which were leisure travelers; second to New York in number of theatre seats; site of the world's largest rodeo (this is Texas); a port that is the second largest in total tonnage in the US; home of the world's first domed stadium. Finally, the first word ever spoken from the moon was the name of this city, when on July 20, 1969, Neil Armstrong called, "Houston, Tranquility Base here. The Eagle has landed."
Continental Airlines took us from LaGuardia Airport to George Bush Intercontinental Airport in just over three hours. (The former President and first lady still reside in Houston). Our home for 4 days was the recently opened Intercontinental Hotel in the "Uptown" section of town famous for the Galleria Mall with its 320 stores, indoor ice rink and 16 million visitors annually, and located about a half-hour from the airport.
Your first stop should be at the Visitors Center, the largest in the US, located in City Hall in the "Downtown" section, 15 minutes from our hotel -www.Houston-spacecityusa.com –(800) 4- Houston. The theatre district has over 16,000 theatre seats and eight resident professional performing arts groups within a 17-block area in downtown's epicenter. The city is home to more than 500 cultural, visual and performance arts organizations; only New York City has more. We walked to the brand new Hobby Center for the Performing Arts for a backstage tour and then to the nearby Lancaster Hotel (a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World) for dinner. Minute Maid Park, formerly Enron Field, with its retractable roof, is the home to the Houston Astro baseball team. Speaking of Enron, our group wanted their picture taken in front of the now empty Enron building next to the infamous E sculpture, which was sold recently on E-Bay.
The Houston Museum District is only a few minutes from downtown and home to ten museums, including The Museum of Natural Science, a trove of the rare, beautiful and record-breaking. It is located within Hermann Park, which contains a golf course, the Houston Zoo and free Shakespeare at the Miller Outdoor Theater. We toured the Titanic Artifact Exhibit, the Hall of Gems & Minerals, the Butterfly Center, the Planetarium and Imax Theatre. The Children's, Fine Arts and the Holocaust Museum are also located in this area. Nearby is the Texas Medical Center with 13 hospitals, several medical schools and Rice University. There are over 130 biomedical firms located within the city limits.
Also close by is the new Reliant Stadium with its retractable roof and seating for 70,000. The new stadium was built right in front of the old Reliant Astrodome which, when it opened in 1965, was called the Eighth Wonder of the World because it was the first domed stadium in the world and led to the introduction of Astroturf. Its future is uncertain at this time since the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo (the world's largest) drawing over two million people during its 17-day run in February/March will move to the new stadium. This may be the bargain of the whole country as a post-rodeo music concert takes place and is included in the price of admission, which tops out at $32. The highlight of the rodeo is the opening parade, which draws over 6,000-trail riders.
A half-hour outside town is George Ranch (not that George) and Historical Park. It is a 480-acre outdoor history museum within a 23,000-acre working ranch. We got a chance to see the Old West come alive in this living history park, featuring Texas ranching and cowboys circa 1830 to 1930, with costumed re-enactors, cattle and horses surrounded by a working ranch and homes typical of those times. Lunch was "chuck wagon" style cooked outdoors on an open fire. If you are craving for a dinner of real beef, try the Taste of Texas Restaurant renowned for its steaks.
Our trip coincided with the Ballunar Hot Air Liftoff Festival. At the crack of dawn we were at the Clear Lake area, 25 miles southeast of downtown. (800) 844-Lake. After our balloon ride we walked over to the visitors center of the NASA/Johnson Space Center. -www.spacecenter.org. There are live shows, interactive exhibits, hands-on simulators, and space themed movies with a behind-the-scenes tram tour. New is the Robot Circus, the world's first robotic performing troupe. Our group had a private meeting with Dr. Bonnie Dunbar an astronaut who has been in space five times, from 1985 to 1998. This is also the home to the Mission Control Center, where the Space Shuttle missions are run, astronauts are trained and the Space Shuttle program is managed. It also directs the International Space Station program.
In a few minutes we were at the Kemah Boardwalk on Galveston Bay, halfway between Houston, Galveston, and the Gulf of Mexico. Our lunch was at the Aquarium Restaurant that is billed as "an underwater dining adventure". This one-of-a-kind restaurant features three large aquariums and a sea-themed décor. A 50,000-gallon aquarium allows floor to ceiling viewing through acrylic observation panels. Divers make frequent scheduled feedings throughout the day that guests can view. Our final dinner was at Americas Restaurant with its cutting edge décor and creative menu featuring the food of South, Central & North America.
Houston is a very diverse city with over 60 languages, other than English, being spoken. In four days our group did not even scratch the surface of all that the city has to offer. The summer weather is a killer, but the average winter high is 66 degrees, and it is around 80 in the fall and spring. Space City is definitely out of this world and worth a return visit.
SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 8:34 PM
December 23, 2005
Bats, Baseball and Baths: My Visit to Howe Caverns, Cooperstown and Sharon Springs
By Ron Kapon
Two and a half days were enough time to visit three of the most interesting and diverse attractions in New York State. I started my two-and-one-half hour journey by taking Amtrak from NYC to Albany, the capitol of New York State since 1797. This first-class trip was sponsored by the New York State Department of Tourism, you know, those I Love New York folks.
Our luxury van took us west of Albany into the northeast corner of the Appalachian Region on the way to Howe Caverns with our first night's stop at the Howe Caverns Motel. Utilitarian, spartan, but convenient, and all of 100 yards from the caverns.
Before traversing the caves we stopped at the Iroquois Indian Museum, an educational institution dedicated to fostering and understanding past and present Iroquois culture.
In 1842 Lester Howe discovered the caverns named after him, thought to be 10 million years old and a constant 52 degrees. After financial problems forced him to close the caves they reopened in 1929 with more than 200,000 visitors a year. Visitors start by descending 150 feet to begin their adventure, which includes a boat ride on the underground lake. We experienced Howe by Lantern, as all the lights were turned off to relive Lester Howe's era. Another cave nearby, Secret Cave, is filled with fossils and a 100-foot waterfall. Close by is the Old Stone Fort Museum, a 1772 church converted to a fort, attached during the Revolutionary War. On the National Register of Historic Places the seven buildings hold artifacts and military objects. Dinner was at George Mann Tory Tavern, opened in 1711 and restored in the 1900's. Nearby, the largest single-span covered bridge, Blenheim, is worth a Kodak moment.
From cavern bats we moved too baseball bats and arrived in Cooperstown, named after James Fenimore Cooper's family (remember the Last of the Mohicans). The aptly named Fenimore Art Museum is filled with Native American and American Art. The last time I was in Cooperstown I stayed at the stately Otesaga Resort Hotel, built in 1909 on Lake Otsego and went to the repertory opera company Glimmerglass. Also on the lake were Hyde Hall, a National Historic Landmark, circa 1800, and the finest example of a neo-classic country mansion in the north.
I came to town to see the National Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum. Its purpose is to preserve, exhibit and interpret its artifacts and collections to honor those who have made outstanding contributions to the National Pastime. While in town you can view Doubleday Field where baseball was invented and the Cooperstown Dreams Park with its 14 ball fields that host national and regional tournaments.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places Sharon Springs heyday was the turn of the 20th century. There is a frenetic restoration of the golden age for this spa village. The 1927 Imperial Sulfur Spa Baths was part of the Adler Hotel that has been closed, purchased and will soon be returned to its former grandeur. I'd like to come back in about five years to see the changes. Sharon Springs served as the vacation spot for many Jews who were not welcome in nearby Saratoga. I had breakfast at the Clausen Farms Bed and Breakfast Inn with its 90-mile views into the Adirondack Mountains. Built in 1890 it also belongs to the National Register of Historic Places. In 1989 it was restored and converted into a Bed and Breakfast and hosts grazing llamas on its 60 acres. I had a massage at the New Yorker Guest House, a Bed and Breakfast Inn and Wellness Spa originally opened in 1893. Dinner and overnight was at the American Hotel an 1847 property that is on the National Register. That's no surprise, as each guest room is filled with antiques and collectibles.
Information Central
Iroquois Indian Museum- www.iroquoismuseum.org
Howe Cavern- www.howecaverns.com
Secret Cave- www.secretcaverns.com
Schoharie County Chamber of Commerce, www.schohariechamber.com, (800) 41visit
Fenimore Art Museum, www.fenimoremuseum.org
Otesaga Resort Hotel, www.otsega.com, (800) 348-6222
Glimmerglass Opera, www.glimmerglass.org
Hyde Hall, www.hydehall.org (800) 472-9002
National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum-
www.baseballhalloffame.org, (888) 425- 5633
Cooperstown Dreams Park- www.cooperstowndreampark.com
Cooperstown/Otsego County Tourism, www.visitcooperstown.com
American Hotel, www.americanhotelny.com
SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 4:38 PM
December 21, 2005
Club 201 is engaging new dinner and music spot
By Lucy Komisar
A Morocco-inspired decor, a soulful singer of standards and blues, and a choice of superb Latin and Japanese cuisine produce the excitement of Michel Bittan's new 201 Supper Club. The style and panache of elegant dining combine with tuneful cabaret to make this the place to go in 
the
You walk into a dimly lit room of maroon-covered tables and are greeted by the soft strumming of a recorded Spanish guitar. On one side is a long bar, on the other, separated by gauze curtains, are private nooks brightened by small cut-glass Moroccan lanterns. As you sip a delicious white Sangría at the bar or share a bottle of good French or American wine at a table, you relax in the artfully created setting.
The waiter brings a complimentary dish of banana chips with chopped tomato garnish. From the Latin 
menu, I choose rosemary lamb chops with balsamic juice, butternut squash and Shiitake mushrooms prepared in a delicate brown sauce. My companion orders pinwheels of salmon and flounder with basil pine nut pesto, white clam sauce and sautéed spinach. Both dishes are flavorful and subtle. We share an excellent bottle of Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé but also try a glass of more earthy Argentine wine. For desert, there's scrumptiously dense cheesecake and elegantly light Tres Leches rum cake.
The Latin cuisine is prepared by Andrew DiCataldo, who spent nine years as a chef at the popular
Michel Bittan's decisions about this complex are very personal. He was born in 
and worked in
Bittan has a history that helped inspire this restaurant. After his father died in 1963, his mother decided to leave
He jokes about how his identity has changed as he's moved around the world: "In 
called us Jews; in
His love of dining and music translates into cabaret in the supper club and a disco upstairs. Soon after my companion and I arrive, so does Bobby Curtis, with his backup keyboard player and drums, to entertain us with the kind of melodic mood music that never goes out of fashion: "A Foggy night in London town," "Have I told you lately that I love you?" and "The way you look tonight." This is music at a sophisticated level where you can hear yourself speak.
Bittan was out of the restaurant and music business for a while. He worked in fashion (Sassoon Jeans and then Guess Jeans) and still deals in real estate (hotels and medical centers). He arrived in 
But he wasn't satisfied. He decided the city needed an upscale restaurant. And, "There was no space in the area where you could have a party for more than a few people." So he created Club 201, with a supper club on the ground floor and a large disco above it. The disco, with comfortable Moroccan-style couches, has a DJ and colorful light shows as well as an arcade room. Bittan adds, "I give all charities the space free. Last week we raised money for hurricane [relief] and for a book fair."
On the night I visited the Supper Club, patrons were having a smashing time. "I love it, I love the atmosphere," said Daryl Richardson, a pressman for a Wall Street newspaper. "Curtis is not so overwhelming, he blends in." His companion Carla nodded, "The ambience is great."
At another table, two couples, including a dentist, doctor, and real estate agent, agreed. One said they liked getting cabaret for the same money as a restaurant meal. Another echoed, "Bobby Curtis is great. The atmosphere is fabulous, lively. It brings new life to
Think Mediterranean coast, with a hint of
If you go:
Club 201 Supper Club
http://www.201club.com
On the Spanish menu, appetizers are $7 to $14, main courses $18 to $29. Sushi menu starts at $2 a piece, $5 for rolls, $9 for Maki and $18 to $25 for combination entrees. A bottle of wine costs from $45; wine by the glass is $7-9, beer is $7, pitchers of Sangría $29. There is no minimum or music charge in the club restaurant. The valet parking lot is free
At the entrance to the complex is the Sangria-Sake Restaurant with a Sushi Bar, a less expensive menu and a younger clientele. http://www.sangriasake.com
In the back, a 200-seat terrace has been built for the Matt and Alex Mediterranean & Grill restaurant set to open in Spring 2006. http://www.mattandalex.com
All restaurant hours: Mon, Tues, Wed 12pm-10:30pm; Thurs & Fri 12pm-11:45pm; Sat 4pm-11:45pm; Sun 3pm-10:30pm.
The Club 201 Disco has a cover charge of $20, free to restaurant diners. Thurs 10pm-2am; Fri 10pm-3am; Sat 10pm-3am.
Photos by Lucy Komisar
Tel (201) 541-0101
Fax (201) 541-0004
SoGoNow.com by: Guest Author on: 9:04 AM
December 19, 2005
Help! Please lead me to a quiet retreat for the holidays
Looking for a quiet place to visit during the holidays- an oasis that offers peace and tranquility instead of constant hurry up, hurry up?
How about an old world location smack-dab in the middle of the
A time to remember family and friends gathered around the Christmas tree while Mom was in the kitchen getting ready to adorn the dining table with Mr. Turkey along with whipped sweet potatoes, cranberries, straight-from-the-oven biscuits and all the other lovely holiday foods that make this season special.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula has everything: great forests filled with giant trees, quaint villages, ski slopes topped with powdery snow, iced lakes to skate on, interesting little shops to browse through and wild animals (deer, moose, bears and small game) to hunt or to photograph.
Keep in mind the animals claim their space on the highways where-ever they please. If a 600 pound black bear wants to sit on the road enjoying the sun nobody argues with him!
All the towns in the area are interconnected by good highways, with each community hosting a variety of holiday celebrations open to the public. "Michiganders" are friendly and welcome guests with open arms.
This time of the year produces a plethora of bazaars filled with interesting craft items made by local residents. Hand made quilts, carved wooden toys, hand crafted furniture, oil paintings of local points of interest, hand knit garments and baby clothing made with delicate, tiny stitching to give an added beauty to the garment- all make splendid gifts. You will not find any of these marvels in a department store.
Each small town has several cafes standing ready to serve patrons regional food: try the hearty beef stew, or a Texas-sized plate of spaghetti and meat balls, a king size steak, or a local all-time favorite and star, the "pasty. You will not leave the table hungry.
The pasty (pronounced past-tee) has reigned supreme with the locals from the turn of the century when Cornish miners immigrated to the Copper and Iron Mining Regions of Northern Michigan. This melt-in-your-mouth wonder consists of a flaky crust filled with bite-size pieces of tender steak, potatoes and grated onions. All of this is topped with a big "chunk" of butter which melts down into the ingredients during the baking process- producing a taste-to-die-for flavor. This masterpiece of culinary art is served piping hot with a salad and dessert.
Now about dessert- brace yourself: any of the regional specialties mentioned above are usually accompanied by a grand selection of fresh from the oven baked pies. Diets out the window friends, the pie is served with whipped cream or ice cream. Oh, my.
There are several small towns in this area. One of my favorites is 
population 1,791. This small community is unique- it is built on a steep hill with the main street dominated at the top by the historic Iron County Courthouse. The building, constructed in the early 1800s and listed in the National Registry, is an imposing brick structure with a grand bell tower which houses a spectacular clock. Since the locale is primarily rural both the residents and visitors enjoy a laid-back existence free from the frantic rush of the metropolitan areas.
Upper Michigan is known for its love of music. Frequent holiday programs or dances are open to the public not only in
There is a wide selection of motels in the area. The Iron County Chamber of Commerce will answer any of your questions regarding lodging etc. Please call (906) 265-3822 to speak to Bill Leonoff.
Since the villages are interconnected with good highways you might like to drive to
Be sure to stop at 
granted a stunning view when looking out the windows from this historic treasure: beautiful
As an added bonus each room has a different theme. My favorite is the "Amelia Earhart" room. Decorated with elegant traditional furnishings and a cozy fireplace gracing one corner, it has one blade of an authentic high-gloss airplane propeller attached to a wall beside Ms. Earhart's photograph. All of this plus the heart-stopping, panoramic display of gorgeous, cobalt-blue
SoGoNow.com by: Maxine Sommers on: 8:02 PM
December 17, 2005
NFR- Vegas Rodeo
Thomas and Mack the site for the rodeo is packed with people. Tents with the sponsor logos imprinted on the outside fill the parking lot. If you want to avoid the parking fees and traffic you can park on Maryland Parkway outside the UNLV campus and take a short walk to the arena.
The show starts with country western stars singing the national anthem, continues with fireworks and then proceeds with the contestant parade. If you really enjoy a particular singer you can usually see the songbird perform after the rodeo at one of the casinos. I was fortunate enough to see LeeAnn Womack (thanks Carla) this year. She was amazing, I actually cried when she sang “Crazy”.
I was lucky and got to see NFR Day 3 and Day 10 this year. My friend Susan had several extra tickets and I was the recipient of her largess. My favorite event was the first event, Bareback Riding. It is thrilling to see cowboys ride a bucking bronco live. I love all the events and really got a kick out of the bravest cowboys in the rodeo, the clowns. I also love the atmosphere of all the people young and old having fun and dressed in their biggest belt buckles and festooned with rhinestones.
All types of people love to come to this rodeo, from the NFR aspiring barrel racer and trainer, Hannah Montey, longtime fans such as my friends Carla and Susan, to people like myself who know little of rodeo but learn to love it quickly once they witness the fabulous show.
SoGoNow.com by: Kellie Archuletta on: 7:48 AM | What do you think? (4)
December 14, 2005
The Adventure Begins- Part 2: My Trip to South America
By Ron Kapon
Part 1 ended as I flew to Santiago Chile. Brian Pearson, owner of Santiago Adventures, was waiting at the airport to drive me to The San Cristobal Towers, part of the Starwood Luxury Collection (Diplomat, Phoenician, and Gritti Palace etc). Built in 1998 it is attached to the older Sheraton Santiago Hotel. The 21st floor lounge had a sumptuous breakfast spread and fabulous views of the city. My modern, large room had a bathroom the size of a Manhattan studio apartment. Brian arranged a private car & his top guide for a four hour city tour. It was winter holiday break with lots of families and locals in the streets and shops. Viewing the Presidential Palace, Plaza de Arms and the luxury estates on San Cristobal hilltop reminded me how much Santiago, with modern buildings, parks, wide streets and the warm winter weather, was like Buenos Aires.
An interesting side note to the Chilean free economy; Micros, are those yellow buses that are privately owned, with the drivers working on commission, based on the number of passengers picked up. It is the Indianapolis 500 on the streets that soon will be changed as there are too many accidents; they will become a public transit system. Concesinario's are private toll roads in and around Santiago as well as the road to Valparaiso and the Pan American Highway (drive from Alaska to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Chile). Private companies will maintain the roads; collect the tolls, with a 30 year old lease. The free roads tend to be narrow, bumpy and crowded (are you reading this Mayor Bloomberg?). By the way there is an excellent Metro system.
If God had created a vineyard it would have been Errazuriz in the Aconcagua Valley, about an hour from the airport. My full wine story will appear elsewhere but having lunch on the terrace with bright sunshine, warm temperatures, the view of the snow-covered Alps and the hillside terraced vineyards made me glad to be a wine writer. There are wineries north, east and south of Santiago all within an hours drive. Brian, whose company organizes wine tours, offered to drive me during my two days in the Colchagua Valley two and a half hours south of Santiago. Alfredo Vidaurre, one of the owners of Montes winery, put us up at the Santa Cruz Hotel overnight. If Argentina is beef, Chile is fresh seafood (think Chilean Sea Bass). Sebastian Lopez of Concha Y Toro put me up at the Hotel Atton back in Santiago as I had a 6:50AM flight to Lima. He even arranged a car to pick me up and I zipped to the airport in 15 minutes for my TACA 31/2 hour flight to Lima.
My Gray Line connection came in handy here as a representative of Viajes Pacifico, the Gray Line agent in Peru, drove me to the Sofitel Royal Park Hotel. I never saw another guest the day I stayed there. This was still the winter holiday vacation time (think Thanksgiving/Christmas/New Years period) and many people were on holiday. I walked around the San Isidro neighborhood which is residential with hotels and restaurants. I was picked up for my city tour and learned Lima had 8 million people, representing 30% of the country. It was founded in 1535 by the Spanish Conqueror Francisco Pizarro. The next day was a national holiday marking the founding of the country and everything was closed for a very long weekend. This is getting to be a habit as Uruguay celebrated their national holiday while I visited 1 1/2 weeks ago. Lima is a UNESCO World Heritage city for its colonial architecture and is a melting pot of mixed-blood people and cultures, again like Uruguay. There is the obligatory Plaza Mayor (main square) with its Presidential Palace, City Hall, Cathedral and Archbishops Palace sitting on its four corners. It was filled with people getting ready for the national holiday the next day. Nearby are the Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia de la Merced and Iglesia de Santo Domingo where San Marco University- the first in South America- was founded in 1551. We visited the ruins of the old wall that once surrounded Lima and glimpsed Acho the oldest bullfighting rink in the Americas and the third oldest in the world.
I moved to the Swissotel in the same San Isidro neighborhood where I was scheduled to stay one night. I was given a room on the executive floor that had the best service I have ever experienced in a hotel. Computers, a full breakfast, lunch snacks, a full dinner and open bar. I had so much fun that I cancelled my stay at another hotel to stay here an extra night. This chain is owned by the Raffles folks and now I understand why I loved the hotel so much. My last day in Lima I was taken 19 miles south of town on the Pan American Highway to the Pachacamac Temple, built entirely of clay and including the Temple of the Sun & Moon. After lunch it was off to the Mujico Gold Museum that is world-renowned for its gold, silver and brass collection from the pre-Inca & Inca cultures. A separate part of the museum contains the very large Weapons of the World area.
I spent a day and a half in the Ica, Pisco, Paracas area that is 3 1/2 hours south by luxury bus from Lima. One of the highlights was an hour and a half flight from Ica over the Nazca Lines (80 miles away). There are over 70 giant figures and 10,000 lines imprinted in the earth (monkeys, spiders etc) dating from 500AD. They are referred to as Geoglyphs by pre-Inca cultures of the Nazca and Paracus Indians. I stayed overnight at the Pacific Ocean seaside resort the Hotel Paracas. Early the next morning I joined a group on a fast boat ride to the Ballestas Islands which is home to sea lions, monkeys, penguins, otters, dolphins and many many birds. It was back on the bus for my return trip to Lima and the end of country number four.
MORE INFORMATION-
www.visit-chile.org
www.santiagoadventures.com
www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury
www.graylineperu.com
www.peru.org.pe
www.lima.swissotel.com
www.sofitel.com
SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 11:23 PM
December 13, 2005
Dolores Hidalgo
Someone has gotten carried away with the ice cream flavors.
"Pulpa?" asks one of the many vendors, each with a stand in the four corners of the zocolo or town square of Dolores Hidalgo, a small city tucked away in the Guanajuato Mountains.
Dolores Hidalgo is famed for their nieves or ice creams, all homemade and sold from carts that come out every day and set up in the town square which is bordered, on one side, by the magnificent Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, an amazingly Churrigueresque style church with an elaborate façade of intricately carved pink figures and rose stucco walls that was built in the 1700s. My Spanish is not great but I know enough to understand that the flavor he is offering is octopus. I shake my head no.
"Camorones?" he asks pointing to a container of pink colored ice cream with flecks of minced shrimp.
Oh what the heck. It's only five pesos, about a nickel in American money, and so I order the shrimp ice cream which he scoops up generously and places in a paper cup. I pick up a small wooden paddle spoon and take a taste. Not bad, but I don't think it's going to become a big hit in the 
mixture containing shrimp, octopus and other creatures of the deep. Dairy Queen aficionados would not be happy with this selection.
Loading up on several flavors, including chili, an interesting looking orange brown nieve that has a hint of heat, I walked towards the Nuestra Senora de los Dolores where a crowd is forming. Today is September 16th and 195 years ago, the Priest Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla delivered El Grito, an impassioned, spur of the moment cry for independence that started the Mexican revolution against Spanish rule. Every year, El Grito is re-enacted in this historic square whose buildings date back almost 300 years that intrigue with their style-- including the Visitor's House, with its faded pinkish stone and five ground level arches topped by second story stone balconies and the nearby Museo de la Independencia, filled with artifacts from the historic struggle, which is lit up at night creating an appealing glow across the zocolo. 
Like many small Mexican towns, downtown of Dolores Hidalgo is centered around a square where musicians play on Sundays and families gather to visit and to sit on wrought iron benches, enjoying the trueno and palm trees which shade the walkways. Because it is not a tourist destination for those across the border, it retains much of the charm of old
But there's more to Dolores Hidalgo besides history, Baroque style architecture and fanciful flavored ice creams. Just blocks off of the zocolo, tucked away on quiet side streets are stores selling Talavera, a Mexican variation of the Spanish majolica pottery made in just a few cities. In an interesting aside, Father Hidalgo, an intellectual who was also considered a man of the people, introduced Talavera pottery techniques to the
people of Dolores Hidalgo during the years he lived there as well as silk worm raising, harness making, blacksmithing, weaving leather tooling and wine and olive oil production. The stores, such as Talavera Cortés, La Casa de las Artesanias and Talavera Vázquez, overflow with brightly patterned and colored Talavera products ranging from soap dishes, light switches, small vases and tiles to large-mosaics and bird baths to the too large to even think about taking home on the airplane--pedestals and bathtubs and bathroom sinks.
The Talavera, no matter what the size, can be shipped home. Unfortunately, after developing a taste for papaya ice cream, the nieves cannot.
SoGoNow.com by: Jane Ammeson on: 5:03 PM
December 12, 2005
Hotsprings and a Holy Mountain: Japan's Kurama Village and Spa
By Lucy Moss
Tucked away among the cedar forests of
From
Despite its remote location, people have lived in the vale of Kurama for millennia. Even now the houses
are all in the traditional style - low wooden structures with wide eaves, lanterns and bamboo-slatted windows. We stop for a snack at one of several charmingly ramshackle cafés. A large iron kettle whistles on the stove and the cheerful proprietress serves us steaming bowls of Japanese udon noodles and hot green tea. The room is crammed with various knickknacks and souvenirs for sale. Shelves of small clay figures vie for attention with packets of the dark, finely diced vegetable pickles that are a specialty of Kurama.
On the wall behind the counter hangs a red mask, its huge nose quite out of proportion to its other features. This is a representation of the Tengu, the 
mythical creature said to live on the
Just beyond the café, a broad flight of stone steps leads up to the lower gate of the temple, Kurama-
dera. A monumental timber structure, it is guarded by two huge sculptures of divine kings. Their muscles bulge as they raise their huge weapons to strike down any evil spirit audacious enough to attempt to pass. From here it is a long steep hike up and up through the forest, past tiny shrines, waterfalls and burbling springs until eventually one arrives at the temple itself. A small cable car carries those unwilling or unable to walk. However you reach the temple, the trip is well worth the effort and the views of undulating cedar-forested hillsides are spectacular.
The temple itself was founded in 770 AD to offer spiritual protection to the newly founded capital of Heian-kyo (present-day