 |
 |
Kilimanjaro: A trek to the top...
In a word, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain and the highest freestanding mountain in the 
world, is simply majestic. It does wonders to one's imagination, just as it has captured the inspiration of millions over the centuries. And, as we know, Ernest Hemingway frequently found a place for it in his romantic works. Its snowcapped peak can be seen from as far away as 100 miles. Yet, its splendor may seem strangely located when one realizes it is situated near the earth's equator.
Before I ever even visited Africa, I had asked myself the question, "Why would I want to climb this giant?" It would possibly be more prudent if not more sensible to simply photograph the mountain's beauty from a distance. However, the ultimate lure for me was that Mt. Kilimanjaro is there for novice adventurers and not just expert, seasoned mountain climbers like Mt. Everest. No ropes, pitons or snap links would be required. However, in their place would be the demand for stamina, endurance, determination, fitness and desire.
As I arrived at the charming Kibo Hotel located at the base of Mt.Kilimanjaro, there was an air of excitement as descending climbers began to celebrate their accomplishments. The impromptu festivities were not only infectious but provided the adrenaline and determination for those who were facing their maiden attempt at the mountain.
The plaque over the entrance of Kibo Hotel informed all visitors that in August 1988, President Jimmy Carter was a hotel guest. My initial thoughts were: "If President Carter could do it, I can do it!"
After years of adventure travel, I prepare myself for most eventualities that may require first-aid. And now, I would probably also face a new malady, high altitude sickness. However, I had the foresight to bring with me a preventive medicine for such a problem. In addition, articles that I had read informed me to drink lots of water and take each stage of the climb as slowly as possible ? never rush.
Each day I would be climbing about 3,000 feet; therefore, my body had to be in continual adjustment to new altitudes and changes in breathing. I really felt I was never more prepared and kept telling myself, "I know I can do it!" In any event, it was now too late to change my mind. "The die had been cast".
I learned from the hotel manager who was also in charge of the climb that weather conditions on the top of Mt.Kilamanjaro could include strong winds and temperatures of 10C. Again, previous adventures similar to the one on which I was embarking had taught me that it is always better to be too warm than too cold. I now rechecked and repacked my gear before spending a restless night of anticipation.
After breakfast the following morning, I was introduced to my guide, William, and the three porters who would carry all of my gear in addition to theirs. They would also have to manage all the food for the entire journey as well as the wood, oil and kerosene for the preparation of our cooking facilities in the mountain huts on our ascent. At about 10:00 a.m., we were driven a short distance to the Marangu Park Gate at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro where I would to register for the climb. We were now already at an altitude of 6,000 feet.
A guide and usually three porters comprise a "team" that accompanies each climber to the absolute summit of the entire African Continent. However, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, even with a team, is most definitely an individual challenge and certainly not a group effort.
From the start, I did not expect to be spoiled. And, my expectations were confirmed when we began our climb in a drizzle. I had already slipped on my rain gear as we began to climb through the tangled rain forest. The early stages took us through the heavy moss that clung to the trees. Our scenery included forests of rotting tree trunks in a myriad of stages of decomposition. Numerous rocks of all shapes and sizes contributed to making the climb more like an infiltration course presenting varying degrees of both hardship and difficulty.
My porters were obviously conditioned to the environment, therefore, they moved at a much faster pace than William and I. In fact, they arrived at our first stop an hour and a half before us. However, before we even started the climb, we had to reach an understanding. That understanding was rather self-evident in that the "team" would set its pace according to how well I became acclimated to the changes in altitude. My linguistic abilities were also on the rise. I found myself frequently saying "Pole ?pole" which in Swahili translates into "Slowly-slowly".
During the ascent of Mt. Kilamanjaro, we encountered numerous climbing parties. Some were going up while others were coming down. The various parties seemed to represent most of the world's nationalities. Therefore, the common language for communicating seemed to gravitate to Swahili. "Jambo" means "Hello" and "Habari?" means, "How are you?" My vocabulary also contained the words "Mzuri" for "Fine"; "Asante" or "Thank you", and the common expression, "Makuna Matata" -- "No Problem".
Affectionately, I referred to my guide as "My William". In return, his appellation for me was "Mama". William was a most kind and gentle man who had a wonderful sense of humor and was always willing to help less fortunate people who were having difficulties along the way.
It was at an elevation of 9,000 feet, some ten miles from our start, we had now arrived at the Mandara Hut, our first stop. Our trek had taken about four hours. There were several Norwegian style "A" frame huts located at each major stop for sleeping and eating. It was no surprise that they were unheated and contained little else than thin mattresses. One of the centrally located huts was designated for eating. Among his many other chores, it was now William's task to prepare our first evening meal.
Huts were assigned to climbers as they arrived. "First come ? first served". One never knew who his or her "hut-mates" would be! Here was not the time or place to pick or choose or demand special treatment.
At this altitude, it becomes very, very cold once the sun has set. The only salvation is to retire to one's warm sleeping bag. Early the following morning, I was awakened by the sound of William's knock. He had brought with him a basin of hot water and a cup of tea.
After breakfast in the eating hut, we prepared ourselves for day two of the climb. The previous forests of lichen-covered trees soon disappeared and were replaced with a rolling meadow of giant heather trees. It became obvious that we were on the assent. Moorlands covered with high tussocks of grass, giant Senecio plants and lobelias soon replaced the heather trees. Over the many centuries, these plants have had to adapt to the extreme fluctuations in temperature.
The next ten miles would demand more time. In fact, it would now take an extra hour. Five in total. Our next destination was Horombo Hut at an altitude of 12,340 feet, more than two miles high.
Because of the freezing temperatures, I replaced my windbreaker with down jacket and thermal underwear. It was at this point in the climb that many people suffered from high altitude sickness. The symptoms were obvious: terrific headaches, nausea and difficulty in breathing. From here on, the "drop-out" rate of climbers would increase. I was informed that only 20% of those who embark upon the climb actually make it to the summit. As for my personal condition, I was feeling fine. Walking was somewhat difficult but not impossible. At night I was very, very tired; however, the long sleeps seemed to rejuvenate me.
This night was particularly cold and stormy. However, I awoke to a beautiful sunny sky and a thin layer of new snow. As I surveyed the view, for the very first time, I could now see the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Trees, clouds or the overcast at lower elevations no longer obscured my view. It was a spectacular sight and well worth the effort to be where I was. I knew immediately that it would be worth the upcoming difficulties to reach the top. All I had to do was to remain healthy for two more days.
My planning was paying off. I was taking the high altitude sickness preventive medicine. I was drinking plenty of water and keeping warm. I had comfortable shoes and, of course, I kept my walking pace down to "slowly-slowly". From here on up, the landscape would become progressively more rugged and rocky, almost replicating the surface of the moon.
Now into our third day, we were beginning another ten-mile climb; this time to Kibo Hut. Slower walking meant adding another half-hour to the journey. Now at an altitude of 15,520 feet, the temperature was remaining -10 C. "Drop outs" were on the increase. More and more climbers were "calling it a day" and reversing their direction. As for me, I was very, very cold and tired when we arrived at Kibo Hut. However, this would be a BIG night for me!
Tonight was the night that I would actually climb to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. This was the night that I would reach Gillman's Point, 18,750 feet or die trying!
Kibo Hut is the highest and last rest stop. It is different from the others because there were dormitory accommodations. We arrived at about 3:00 p.m. and now our task was to prepare for the final ascent of Africa's highest mountain. It would truly be my "BIG NIGHT".
To prepare for the climb, it was essential I get some rest in my warm sleeping bag.
The number of climbers had now dwindled to the point where there were only two young Germans to share the large stone dormitory.
After I have rested for a few hours, 'My William" served me some hot tea. The dinner he had prepared was goulash. We ate early because we had to get some more sleep before our midnight "wake-up" call. For me there wasn't too much sleep because I was too excited. Next to my sleeping bag, I had neatly laid out all my clothes I would need for the event of my life.
My head was in turmoil. There was excitement, worry, anticipation, apprehension ? just about everything. My breathing became quicker. And now I had to keep telling myself over and over that I was going to succeed. I also had to calm down and think clearly.
At midnight, William arrived with a candle and hot tea. It was now time to get dressed and have a light snack of bread and jam. We were going to summit!
The group of remaining climbers set off under a brilliant African sky full of stars and the occasional shooting comet. The final ascent was very steep. We zigged and zagged. And, at this high altitude we had to do it even more slowly and in single file. We were no longer trekking. We were plodding.
Breathing deeply, I took only five tiny steps at a time. Then, rest. Five more tiny steps. More rest. More breathing. Five more steps. Stop. Rest. Breathe. Then, I would repeat the sequence. Progress was unbelievably slow but at least it was steady.
The thin air played heavily on the remaining climbers. Even at this point so close to the summit, some actually chose to "call it quits". It became more difficult to breath and it seemed like we were not advancing. I kept talking to myself. I developed a mental rhythm that would maintain my cadence: one, two, three, four, five, rest. One, two, three, four, five, rest again. Over and over ? again and again! I had made myself a victim of my own carrot and stick. If I could make the five, tiny steps ? then I was rewarded with a rest. Punishment, then reward.
It was windy, freezing and I was climbing at a very steep angle. And, I had been doing this for more than five hours. But, it was now only minutes from daybreak. The dark sky soon became a gorgeous pink as the sun appeared over the horizon. What a beautiful and spectacular sight. It was sunrise over the entire Continent of Africa. But, there still was a long way to the summit ? to my destination.
After taking some photos, I "Hit the Wall", an expression used by long distance runners when they face almost total exhaustion. It was now light and I was not making any progress. I kept mentally asking myself, "Should I give up?" I had already seen the sunrise. I was beginning to rationalize quitting. My mind was really playing tricks. "Why go any further?" "I'm already at the top!" It would be such a reward to stop killing myself. I was completely out of breath. I thought I would never make it.
William became my inspiration. He kept encouraging me to go on. He kept saying, "Not too much longer, Mama." I now forced myself to take longer periods between steps before I was entitled to the reward of rest. I was at the point of total exhaustion as well as total frustration. Then William said, "Look! There it is! Only five minutes and you are there!" I couldn't believe it. I kept going, but the final minutes were plodding and crawling ? definitely not walking. And then, I am not certain if I screamed out loud or silently to myself, but I know I screamed:
" I MADE IT! I MADE IT TO GILMAN"S POINT! I WAS AT THE HIGHEST POINT IN AFRICA - MY GOAL! I REALLY MADE IT! I ACTUALLY CONQUERED MT. KILIMANJARO!"
After the traditional signing of the book on the summit and taking a few more photos, we started heading back down the mountain. I could now face the downward journey with a new strength of achievement. My earlier sagging spirits were now completely replaced with a sense of exhilaration and accomplishment.
We had reached Gilman's Point, 18.750 feet on Labor Day at 8:00 a.m. It was truly a "labor day" for me. It now took only two and a half hours to descend from Gilman's Point to Kibo Hut. There we were greeted with the cheer from the porters and glasses of orange juice. We rested for an hour and then proceeded downwards to Horobo Hut for a well-deserved night's sleep.
As I reflected on my accomplishment, I also declared today as the most exhausting day of my life. I seem to have had many other exhausting days to also reflect upon; however, this is one day I will never forget.
The morning came way too soon. I was awakened at 6:00 a.m. for the final day's descent to Kibo Hotel. It was another beautiful day. Of course, I was beaming from ear to ear and anxious to tell everyone I saw that I actually made it to Gilman's Point.
The walk took seven hours. We were now walking quite rapidly and we stopped only once for a brief lunch at Mandara Hut.
Upon reaching the entrance to the park, my legs hurt so much that I could hardly walk. I hadn't realized that coming down the mountain would be so much more strenuous on my legs than going up. I had trekked a total of 50 miles in five days. Could anyone possibly believe it? Could I believe it? I actually conquered the highest point on the Continent of Africa, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
I was now back at the Kibo Hotel. I was looking forward to a wonderful shower followed by a light meal. Of course, I had to say my good-byes to William and my three porters ? my team.
It was without a doubt the happiest and proudest day of my life. I had one of the most wonderful, natural "highs" of my life and I know it will be a very long time before my total inebriation of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro will subside.
More about the Kilimanjaro Climb
There are five official routes to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro varying from 5 to 9 days. Umbwe, Machame, Shira and Rongai are the four routes from the southwest and north that require camping in tents.
The Manangu route is on the east side of the mountain and is the most used trail with approximately 10,800 climbers per year. It is nicknamed "Coca Cola" because of its popularity and lower cost. There are three rest stops with hut complexes at 9,000, 12,340 and 15,450 feet.
I chose the popular Manangu Route to the top. There, climbers reach Gilman's Point at 18,760. Climbers on the other routes arrive at Uhuru Peak a few hundred feet higher.
Booking can be made from the cities of Moshi and Arusha in Tanzania. In the United States, it is recommended to go through one of the many adventure travel companies to guarantee a place, especially during the busy seasons. The less busy times are in the rainy months of April, May and November.
Your Africa Guide:
Adventure Travel Companies
Wilderness Travel
Visit Wilderness Site
Visit This Site
www.wildernesstravel.com
800-368-2794
Mountain Travel / Sobek
Visit Mountain Travel's Site
www.mtsobek.com
info@mtsobek.com
888-687-6235
Thompson Safaris
800-235-0289
Visit Thompson Safaris
www.thompsonsafaris.com
Carol Herdegen is the editor and travel consultant for her site www.TravelSite.com
