January 31, 2006

British Columbia Wine:The Tip of the Iceberg - Part One

By Ron Kapon

Canada has been making wine since the 1800s and today there are more than 400 wineries made by our northern neighbor. Many of you are familiar with the ice wines from the Ontario region, just over the border from Niagara Falls, but I was surprised at the blank stares when I mentioned I was going to British Columbia to write a wine story.

The region is small with most wineries classified as boutique. Several American and Australian wineries produce more wine than the entire British Columbia region. The areas I visited are at the northernmost tip of winemaking and vine growing. Germany, by the way, is in the same latitude, where the vines struggle to grow ripe fruit with a shorter growing season.

I never saw tour buses or lines of people at the tasting rooms and at most I met the owner or winemaker pouring wines for the visitors. The summers are hot and most grapes are harvested in a long, cool and sunny autumn; sometimes even in winter. Here we find the grapes left to freeze on the vine in order to produce Ice wine, the tip of the iceberg.

The wines of British Columbia are mainly crisp, fruity white Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and late harvest dessert wines, including the ubiquitous Ice wine. More red wines are being grown in the southern end of the Okanagan Valley where the hot, dessert climate and long growing season are suitable to the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir. From Vernon in the north through Kelowna to Osoyoos in the south is about 125 miles.

British Columbia, the most westerly province in Canada, has five designated Viticultural Areas or DVA. There were 110 wineries and 5,400 acres of wine grapes located in two wine-growing regions when I visited the region in the winter of 2005.

The Okanagan, with 70 wineries and 95 percent of the province's wine, and Similkameen Valleys with four wineries, have hot, dry summers, chilly nights, low humidity, long hours of sunshine, with the water from Lake Okanagan used for irrigation. It is the only classified desert area in Canada with less than six inches of rain a year. West of the Coastal Mountain Range in Vancouver it rains a lot.

Those valleys, dating back to the mid-1800s, are located in the central southern part of the province along the border of Washington State. Yes, part of the Okanagan Valley is located in Washington. The coastal regions of the 10 Fraser Valley wineries and the 25 Vancouver Island wineries are an hour's drive north of Victoria. All enjoy warm, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. The three Gulf Islands wineries are off the coast of Vancouver Island and formerly were part of that DVA.

The British Columbia Wine Institute, or BCWI, was established in 1990 to create an internationally competitive wine industry. The strategy included the removal of labrusca (Concord) and hybrid grape varieties (Seyval Blanc) and replanted with vinifera varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon). They have adopted the Vintners Quality Alliance, or VQA seal of approval for wines that pass a taste test and chemical analysis. Wines must be 100 percent vinifera and all the grapes must be from British Columbia. Ninety-five percent of the grapes on a label must be from that variety.

If a DVA is named, then 95 percent of the grapes must be from that DVA. There are provincial designations, like British Columbia, and geographic designations, like Okanagan Valley. If an individual vineyard is named it must be within a DVA and 100% of the grapes must be from that vineyard.

For More Information:
www.canwine.com
www.winesofcanada.com
www.canadianvintners.com
www.winebc.com
www.bcwine.ca

 

SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 2:03 PM

January 30, 2006

Having a whale of a time

Snow-white whales played around the ferry as we crossed the broad expanse of the St. Lawrence river and I think they were enjoying themselves as much as we were. It was an incredible sight. The beluga or white whale grows up to 13 feet long and normally lives in the Arctic but a few hundred have moved south and taken up residence in this great North American waterway.

As the ferry made the 15-mile crossing, the whales swam all around us, surfacing to blow water before diving deep and chasing each other. We were traveling through Quebec, one of Canada's most exciting provinces, and during the summer six types of whales can be seen basking in these waters.

Quebec covers one sixth of Canada's total area yet has a population of just over six million. For most of the population French is the first language, although everywhere we went we found friendly people more than willing to speak English. We started our trip by flying into Montreal and traveled through the province using the marvelous network of Relais and Chateaux hotels.

If it had not been for the chance to get out and walk, cycle or canoe most days, we would have returned home many pounds heavier.

These hotels offer the most stunning food and wines at prices that put most US and European establishments of comparable standard to shame. Most are in idyllic locations, with fabulous views and the rooms ooze luxury although this is not reflected in the prices. They are also conveniently located throughout the province so that none is more than a few hours picturesque drive from the next. La Sapiniere at Val David, in the hills about two hours drive north of Montreal where we had landed and collected our rental car, was our first stop. Rates started at $87 a person a day for bed, breakfast and a fabulous dinner. After an enormous breakfast you could take your choice of tennis, swimming, canoeing, badminton, croquet, cycling, riding and a host of other activities - to work up an appetite for lunch, and then again for dinner.

The Hotel boasts one of the finest wine cellars in North America and contains more than 400 labels and 7,500 bottles.. If you just wanted to pop in for dinner, the five-course set menu, offering eight choices of main dish, would cost just under $40. After Val David our itinerary took us south by bridge across the St. Lawrence so that we could travel eastwards along its southern shore before crossing by ferry at Riviere-du-Loup and doing the return leg along the northern bank. The circular route covered just over 1,000 km (625 miles) and no hotel was more than 150 miles from the next.

Our second stop was at Auberge Hatley, which overlooks the peaceful Lake Massawippi in the Eastern Townships, and is famed because all its 25 bedrooms are furnished with Quebec antique furniture. Day rates including bed, breakfast and five course dinner start from just $120 and there are miles of paths to walk or ride, or boats and canoes to take out on the lake. Exercise is essential if you are to enjoy to the full the culinary skills of French chef Alaine Labrie and the excellent hospitality.

Wildlife abounds everywhere, the rivers and lakes are teeming with fish and shelfish and you can enjoy virtually any sort of game, from rabbit to bison, from pike to lobster, and of course the freshest of salmon. The Relais & Chateaux hotels are so conveniently spaced through Quebec that you can tour the south of the province fully staying at each for a day or two and still have time to explore the charm of old Quebec City before returning to Montreal and the flight home. The roads in Quebec are excellent and even with the speed restrictions; it is possible to eat up the miles. Car rental is inexpensive and almost all the attractions are free. Virtually every little community has its own museum and all are worth a visit.

There is, however, so much more to do in this young and mostly uninhabited province. There are opportunities to camp or caravan, backpack or pony trek, and take full advantage of the long, hot summers. You can canoe thousands of miles of waterways and lakes, fishing as you go for salmon, bass or trout for your supper. There are horses and bikes for hire, golf courses and tennis courts everywhere, and some of the best skiing in eastern Canada during the winter. You can just walk through the woods, or take up a position by a lake and see what wildlife you can spot. There are still bears and wolves, moose and beaver, raccoon and skunks. The birds are tame and many are brilliantly colored like the red winged blackbird, the cardinal bird and the spectacular humming birds which travel up from Florida for the summer. We never had a bad meal in Quebec but many memorable ones.

Even when we stopped at a roadside pull-in for a quick lunch, the scallops were fresh and delicious. The Hostellerie les Trois Tilleuls on the banks of the Richelieu River, is rightly famed for its wonderful regional cuisine supervised by Quebec born chef Jean-Francois Methot. The dinner menu includes Bio salmon with hazelnut sauce; arctic char and sautéed scallops with fine ratatouille and vinaigrette; and stag, maigret of duck with chanterelles, truffle and celery root sauce. The wine cellar boasts more than 16,000 bottles and the Scotch and Whisky Bar has 120 different brands. After all that wining and dining, you can be pampered in the full service Spa.

On the northern shore we stayed at La Pinsonniere which among its many activities, offers whale safaris in the summer and skiing and sleigh rides in the winter. From the windows of my room overlooking the St. Lawrence I watched the beluga playing before going down to another incredible meal and one of the most spectacular wine lists I have ever seen. It even included a 101-year old Anjou dessert wine. All guestrooms are currently being renovated to include sitting room with fireplace, luxurious spa bathroom and magnificent views of the St. Lawrence.

After breakfast the next day, we waved goodbye to the whales and headed for Old Quebec, the only walled city in North America and declared a World Heritage Treasure by UNESCO in 1985.

This summer fly up to Quebec, rent a car and spend a few days touring the province, living and eating like kings in some of the finest hotels in North America. You will have a whale of a time.

 

SoGoNow.com by: Don Philpott on: 8:31 PM

January 27, 2006

The Magic of the Desert and the Rumbling of the Ground- Greatest Escapes

by Howard Hian, the Practical Traveler

"The Lonesome Gods," by Louis L'Amour, begins with a map of early Southern California. Names leaping from the page include Agua Caliente, Thousand Palms, Taquitz, Moronga Valley, Indian Wells and the San Jacinto Mountains. L'Amour describes the beauty, the colors of the setting sun on the rock formations and the magic and power of the desert. The mystery of the place is enhanced by the rumbling of the ground and the magic of those that inhabit the spiritual home of native Americans who have lived in the region for centuries. I had read half of the book when I experienced the pull of the desert. Let's go! Our home in La Jolla is a short two hour drive to Riverside County, the location of Palm Springs.

Of course, I went online to check our hotel options and realized that, on the way over, a stop at the Mission Inn in Riverside would be a perfect addition to our getaway. The Mission Inn, in this writer`s opinion, is the most unique hotel in all of California and worth a special trip. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and is a member of the Historical Hotels of America. It is like staying in a Spanish castle. Officially, the architectural style is Mission Revival, but it feels and looks like Spain or Portugal. There are nooks and crannies, rotundas, courtyards, chapels, niches, patios, fountains, spiral staircases, galleries, stained glass windows, doors of all sizes, gardens, turrets and domes, statues, and catacombs. The owner and restorer of this masterpiece is local businessman Duane Roberts. I promise you will be surprised and amazed by the beauty and wonder of this eclectic and eccentric hotel in downtown Riverside. There is a well equipped fitness center, an Olympic sized pool and Jacuzzi; massage therapy is available, The rooms feature mini bars, cable TV, evening turn down service with chocolates and a most appreciated morning paper delivered to your door. The most fun, though, is to roam the hotel and grounds. Find a shady spot and read and relax. That's what this magical place is all about.

The Mission Inn began as a 12 room adobe boarding house in 1876. In 1902 the expansion began and continued for the next 30 years! The Mission Inn today is completely renovated and is first rate. The hotel features 235 architecturally unique rooms and suites and two outstanding restaurants, Duane's and the Mission Inn Restaurant. The hotel operates the Mission Inn Coffee Company which features, sandwiches, salads and soups along with a range of coffee items for casual dining. The Mission Inn also features a legendary Sunday Brunch; people travel from all over the area to attend this extravaganza. Taking care of guests and dining is taken very seriously at the Mission Inn.

Our first night my wife and I ate at Duane's, the signature restaurant. This elegant dining room features prime steaks and seafood and has an extensive wine list. Our first surprise was a complimentary bruschetta served by our knowledgeable waitperson. Everything is ala carte and there is a wonderful selection of appetizers, salads, entrees, and side dishes. We I chose the honey glazed shrimp and smoked salmon as our appetizers. We were not disappointed. We then split a wonderful beef steak tomato, grilled Maui onion and roasted garlic salad course. It was flavorful, fresh and easily enough for two.

For our main course, my wife ordered a steak and Lyonnaise potatoes. I chose a veal chop and grilled portabello mushrooms. Duane`s offers a choice of four sauces to accompany your beef: merlot, Duane's special sauce, bearnaise, and mustard and peppercorn. We asked to sample all four and our request was cheerfully honored. The steak was tender, flavorful and prepared perfectly. The veal chop was outstanding and the portabello mushrooms were easily the best I`ve ever tasted. Desserts were offered and we shared a white chocolate macadamia nut cake. Duane's is deservedly a busy place; the service is up to the ambience and the food. It is a very special restaurant. Make reservations before you go, as they fill up quickly.

Try to arrive at the Mission Inn midweek. "Riverside Wednesday Night" takes place then and is a wonderful farmer's market featuring locally grown fruits and vegetables along with arts and crafts. Bands play throughout the venue and

Main Street

is closed off to traffic. It is fun! The local Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau are also located downtown and offer a wide array of walking maps, historic tours and arts and cultural information. The Mission Inn Foundation and Museum offers a first rate, 70 minute tour of the hotel. Do it; it is fascinating and educational.

"The Lonesome Gods" spoke to us while we were at the Mission Inn. L'Amour's description of the earth rumbling came alive as a magnitude 7.1 earthquake rumbled through the desert! Was it a coincidence or did the "The Lonesome Gods" intend to send a message to the "Practical Traveler" of Greatest Escapes? Information on Riverside can be found at http://home.pe.net/~rdp/ or call the following for maps, tourist info, etc.

Historic Mission Inn Tours at 909-781-8241
Riverside Visitor Center 909-684-INFO

Next we were off to Palm Springs and our stay at the San Marino Inn, just a short 45 minute drive away. On the way over, we stopped at the Windmill Farm. What is that you might ask? Well, after the oil embargo in 1973, finding alternate power sources was a big political issue. Believe it or not, the Windmill Farm "grows" electricity. Palm Springs is in the Coachella Valley. The entrance to the valley is one of the windiest spots in the world! There are 3,000 turbine windmills that provide electricity to 155,000 homes each year. They dot the landscape like extraterrestrial sculptures. Stop in, the tour is fun and educational. Take a look at www.windmilltours.com
Now on to our choice for lodging, the San Marino Hotel. This cozy 15 room inn was designed in 1947 by noted Palm Springs architect William Cody. It is an example of the Wright school of architecture, with extensive use of glass and angular stone walls. Each unit is uniquely furnished, including interesting use of color and design. The artist wife of the innkeeper has several of her original pieces in each room. The inn is built in a U-shape around a pool and garden area featuring the San Jacinto Mountains as a dramatic backdrop. The San Marino hotel is centrally located in the heart of Palm Springs just one block off trendy and historic Palm Canyon Drive. You can easily walk to shops and restaurants. A hiking trail into the desert mountains is two blocks away and provides a wonderful early morning trip. Don't forget your suntan lotion, good walking shoes, a hat and lots of water. The secret to any outdoor activity in the desert is to hydrate and rehydrate!

Since we had chosen a room with a kitchen, our first stop after unpacking was for supplies at a very convenient supermarket. The hotel offers a delightful continental breakfast so all we needed was lunch and dinner. The San Marino has a BBQ and supplies for guest use, so our choices of entrees were centered around outdoor grilling. A couple of nice bottles of wine (on sale, of course!) and locally grown fruits and tomatoes and we were ready to settle in, read, relax, eat and enjoy the desert. The San Marino Hotel is a real charmer and an easy place to unwind.

Palm Springs is a well known and famous destination. As a result there are many activities that compete for your time. The golf is superb, tennis courts abound and a full range of dining and shopping is available. The Visitor Center offers free coupon books to save money at restaurants, shops and attractions. The Tourist Bureau offers free guides, brochures, etc. Their website is www.palm-springs.org. In town, pick up free copies of Travelhost, Desert Key Magazine, Palm Springs Visitors Guide and the Best Read Guide Palm Springs. They all contain valuable tourist information, coupons, maps and shopping tips.

This trip had one purpose, R&R. So we chose to sit pool side, enjoy great weather and read. I finished "The Lonesome Gods" on our second day just as the sun dipped behind the San Jacinto mountains. As the sky turned gold than red and dark purple, I understood the power, mystery and beauty of the desert and L'Amour's love for its lore. Try it...

Western Watch: Upcoming at Greatest Escapes will be the "Practical Traveler's" getaway to beautiful Coronado, CA and the Glorietta Bay Inn.

How did the "Practical Traveler" save money on this trip?

1. Found online specials for hotel rates and traveled in a shoulder season.
2. Asked for equivalent discounts such as offered to AARP or AAA. Even if not a member; most hotels will extend them to you.
3. Shared a salad course and dessert.
4. Asked the waiter for a suggestion on a value priced wine.
5. Rented a poolside room with kitchen facilities and shopped at the local supermarket.

Here is my closing money saving hint: check out www.surcharge-free-atms.com for a list of ATMs without service charges.

Happy travels....

SoGoNow.com by: Howard Hian on: 9:26 PM

January 26, 2006

Chocolate Covered February:A Chocolate Immersion Day

By: Sandra Scott

As every chocoholic knows anything can be covered in chocolate. But how about a whole, entire month covered in chocolate? In fact during Chocolate Covered February you can literally immerse yourself in chocolate! Where can you celebrate Chocolate Covered February? Why, in the "Sweetest Place on Earth"- of course- Hershey, PA. Actually, everyday is "chocolate covered" in Hershey but during February there are special chocolate events and menu offerings.

My hubby and I started our "Chocolate Covered" experience at Lebbie's Restaurant at the Hershey Lodge with breakfast of kiss-shaped chocolate chip waffles topped with whipped chocolate butter. We even remembered to have our fruit- dipped in the chocolate fondue fountain.

The Spa at the Hotel Hershey was our next stop for some immersion therapy. The Spa is a place of hedonistic pleasures. The elegant surroundings set the mood and so does "quiet time." After enrobing we found a quite spot. Actually my husband headed to the silent no-talking room. I relaxed in a leather chair snugged in an mahogany paneled alcove of the "sitting room" with a view of the snow covered lawns and hill.

All my cares drained away during the Whipped Chocolate Bath of foaming chocolate milk. After the bath I headed for my secret spot- the Oasis, not for lunch but to recline on the leather lounging sofa surrounded by filmy drapes feeling like Shaharazade. I expected my toga-clad servant to arrive momentarily with grapes. That didn't happen - maybe the next time! Too soon, Kim, my spa hostess, arrived to tell me it was time for my Chocolate Sugar Scrub. By this time I couldn't even envision the "real" world!

While my skin was being transformed into something silky soft and chocolately smooth, I learned about Milton S. Hershey's connection with Cuba- hence the sugar additive in the scrub and the Spa's offering, "The Cuban Experience." Did you know there is a Hershey, Cuba?  While no longer part of the Hershey, PA family it was where Hershey acquired cane sugar plantations and constructed refineries so he would have a reliable source of sugar. He established a planned community for the workers, called Central Hershey, similar to the one in Pennsylvania including a school for orphaned children. By the end of World War II, the company found it no longer needed its Cuban sources, so the holdings were sold.

My whole body was then ready for a Chocolate Fondue Wrap! Warmed moor mud and essence of cocoa revitalized and nourished my skin. After the body brushing and fondue application I was swaddled in a soft warm blanket.  With my skin nourished it was time to nourish myself in another manner, so after a Vichy Shower I headed to the restaurant.

Feeling renewed physically and mentally I waited for my hubby to join me at the Oasis Restaurant, which is open only to spa guests. Robes are the uniform of the day. My husband had his own chocolate spa treatment that included Chocolate Hydrotherapy and Chocolate Bean Scrub.

"One of the best things about all this chocolate is that they don't add a single calorie," claimed my hubby. Initially he was less than enthusiastic about spending the day at the spa but since it was a gift he couldn't decline. One treatment- and seeing all the other men at the spa- and he became a spa enthusiast.

We enjoyed views of the lawns, cloaked in fresh snow and lunched on healthy veggie warps and salads, so we felt we deserved the yummy chocolate creme brulee. Then it was time for more pampering. While my husband had a Hot Stone Massage, I had a Cocoa Message. We hated to leave so we spent an hour reading in one of quiet rooms. Well, if the truth be told- he napped!

The day was so special we didn't want it to end. Luckily my hubby had the best idea, "Let's go to the Iberian Lounge for a cocktail before dinner.

And so we did. I had a Chocolate Amore Martini while my husband had the Iberian Lounge's signature drink, The Hotel Hershey. And surprise!  Every specialty martini comes with Hershey Kiss or Hershey Hug in the bottom of each drink. What a concept!

Hershey! Feeling that guests that were poor tippers or less prominent were "stuck in the corner" he created a dining room with no corners. Gotta' love that man for creating a chocolate heaven! My husband ordered what he always orders- scallops- but this time it was Cocoa Seared Scallops! I opted for Grilled Sea Bass with Vanilla Scented Endive and a Mocha Reduction!

Stretching the day out even longer we returned to the Iberian Lounge where Gene Zvolensky the beverage manager suggested we try the chocolate wine or chocolate beer! However we opted for a Milton Hershey Chocolate Coffee Kiss! Sitting around the roaring fire we plotted the next day's activities. We still hadn't explored the world of chocolate and wine pairing. And, maybe more spa time!

"I have to admit, a spa day wasn't first on my list of things to do, but what a wonderful escape! Thanks!"

Photos courtesy of Sandra Scott, John Scott, and Hershey, PA.

Make your chocolate dreams come true: Call (800) HERSHEY or check www.hersheypa.com or www.ChocolateCoveredFebruary.com

Links:

http://www.travellady.com/destinations/pennsylvania.htm

http://www.travellady.com/Special/chocolate.htm

http://www.travellady.com/Special/weekend.htm

http://www.travellady.com/Special/weekend.htm

SoGoNow.com by: Sandra Scott on: 1:29 PM

January 24, 2006

Bryce Canyon in Winter

Photos by Toni Fahnestock-Bryce Canyon is my favorite National Park. I love the hoodoos and the surreal landscape of the canyon, but visiting in the winter was a real treat. The canyon was pristine and unoccupied, not to mention visually stunning.

The park was beautiful filled with snowcapped hoodoos and we had the park virtually to ourselves; after experiencing the park several times in the summer, the height of tourist season, it was magical to be able to hike my favorite trails without battling throngs of tourists.

Toni and I had originally planned to snowshoe over the rim trail but when we got to Bryce and asked the waitress at Ruby's Inn where the best place to snowshoe was she replied, "Cedar Breaks, Bryce has so little snow that you'll ruin your equipment." Cedar Breaks was where we had spent the night and left the rest of our family downhill skiing. I guess this is the reason that you should call the visitors center before you arrive at the park. A limited supply of snowshoes can be borrowed at the visitor's center for free if you are lucky enough to have enough snow to use them. Toni and I headed for the main gate and visitor's center after a great meal in the empty dining room of Ruby's Inn. The visitor's center has an outstanding array of touristy national park curios; I think it was one of the best visitor's centers I've ever shopped. The ranger on duty recommended hiking the Sunrise to Inspiration Point rim trail and we decided to follow her suggestion.

The vistas from Sunrise to Inspiration Point were phenomenal; Toni was so busy snapping photos I thought she glued her camera to her eye. I briefly considered hiking down into the canyon on the Navajo loop but when Toni informed me that if I broke something while in the canyon, I would be on my own, I reconsidered. I did have an opportunity to pay her back later in the hike by refusing to sit on a tree stump perched precariously on the rim that Toni insisted would be an interesting photo op; she tried to plead to my artistic sensibilities but self preservation won out.

Toni and I had an outstanding time in the park; it was a balmy 47 degree January day when we decided to hike. If you plan to go to the park in the winter I would suggest calling beforehand and asking about weather conditions. (The visitor center number is 435-834-5322) Wintertime is the best time to experience Bryce National Park.

SoGoNow.com by: Kellie Archuletta on: 4:20 AM | What do you think? (2)

January 23, 2006

Visits with the King of Beaujolais & the King of the Rhone

By Ron Kapon

I have enjoyed wine for most of my 69 years, having sampled my first wine I was but three years of age (mixed with water of course). I have met Kings and Queens, Presidents and Prime Ministers, but nothing was as thrilling to me as my recent visit to Beaujolais, the Rhone, tasting with Georges and Franck Duboeuf and their counterpart in the Rhone Marcel and Philippe Guigal.

I first met the senior Duboeuf about 15 years ago when he journeyed to New York to present his Nouveau in the fall and his Cru Beaujolais selections in the spring; a few years ago his son Franck joined him during these trips. Philippe Guigal is almost 30 years old and the last time I saw him he was 10 and my brother and I took father, mother (Bernadette) and son to dinner at Sparks Steak House in New York City. But I was coming to their country and it was to see them, taste their wines and visit their wineries.

A bonus for me was a short visit and tasting at Beaucastel, the greatest producer of Chateauneuf du Pape, and a vineyard tour with the Prince of the Rhone- J.Vidal-Fleury. But we are getting ahead of ourselves; let us return to the point of origin; New York City.

The 11PM Air France flight to Paris is a favorite for several reasons. One, there is very little traffic going to the airport late on a Saturday night. Two, the Air France terminal is almost empty and I was able to be upgraded to business class which made the 7 hour flight much more pleasant. A short 1 1/2 hour layover gave me enough time to get to the other terminal and board another Air France flight to Lyon.

My other option was the TGV fast train right from Charles de Gaulle airport that took about two hours. But that would have meant waiting for my luggage and moving it to the train station so I opted for the easy 1 hour flight. Though a wine story - I am adding certain sources and suggestions to help you with your trip planning.

A taxi from the Lyon airport would have been about $60 so I hopped on the waiting bus to the train station and then a short taxi ride to the 4 Star Sofitel Bellecour Hotel in the center of the city (total cost about $20). A few hours were spent walking the city core and I was ready for bed as my adventure began early the next day. The Duboeuf' operations are in Romaneche - Thorin, less than an hours drive.

More Information - www.lyon-france.com, www.franceguide.com, www.raileurope.com, www.airfrance.com

Beaujolais and Georges Duboeuf- In the 1950's Georges Duboeuf began selling wine from his home in the Macon area and delivering his wares by bicycle. In 1957 he met the late Alexis Lichine who encouraged him in his vinous pursuits and purchased wine from him - Georges calls Alexis "one of my heroes".

Journalist Note - In 1964 I was an apprentice at the Lichine owned Chateau Lascombes and learned much of what I know about the marketing of wine from Alexis. In 1964 Duboeuf started the company that bears his name selling mainly Pouilly Fuisse. Since he needed a red wine for his portfolio he traveled to Beaujolais and discovered his nirvana.

Remember, this is a story about vision, pleasure, eye-appeal and love of the grape. At present over 500 vignerons and 40 cooperatives in Beaujolais sell their wares to Duboeuf, most with only a handshake for an agreement. Presently Duboeuf sells a million cases in the US (3 million worldwide) through his importers Yale Sager of Winesellers Ldt. and Bill Deutsch of W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd. who began representing his wines in 1980. W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd. cover the east coast and Winesellers Ltd. the balance of the country.

History- Beaujolais owes its name to the Sires of Beaujeu, who reigned over this region during the 9th to 11th centuries. Historians believe that wines were first planted here in the Gallo Roman era, dating back to the 4th and 5th century.

Geography - Beaujolais occupies an area 30 miles long and 8 miles wide in the southernmost part of burgundy with Macon to the north and the Rhone to the south. Lyon, the third largest city in France after Paris and Marseilles, is a half hour south. Beaujolais is very hilly with granite mountainsides and its latitude is similar to that of Portland, Oregon.

Vineyards, soils and grape variety - 1/3 of the area (55,000 acres) are covered by vineyards with the granite soil in the northern vineyards giving aromas of ripe fruit and faded roses and the clay soil in the south reminding many of red fruits. 98% of the vineyards are planted in Gamay with 2% in Chardonnay, which is used in the small production of Beaujolais Blanc.

There are over 4,000 grape growers and 15 million cases of all type of Beaujolais sold worldwide and the US imports about 15% of the total. This area has the highest density of grapevines in the world; over 4,000 vines per acre.

Winemaking - Grape picking is done manually since machine harvesting is not allowed and the fermentation is accomplished by a unique method known as semi-carbonic maceration where bunches of grapes are placed in vats (wood, stainless steel or concrete). The weight of the top grapes makes those at the bottom burst and begins to ferment and this warms the vat, causing fermentation to begin inside the skins of the whole grapes. The result is great fruit extraction and red wines that benefit from being served slightly chilled.

Appellation - Beaujolais - Comes mainly from the southern area of the region with a fragrance of red fruit and berries and are mostly consumed within France and Europe (7 million cases). Beaujolais Villages - The best seller in the US, mostly from the central and northern part of Beaujolais (37 communes). These wines are soft, velvety and fruity (almost 4 million cases). Crus - the 10 Crus are wines named after 10 northern villages. The cru name will appear on the label, often without the word Beaujolais. Here they are alphabetically: Brouilly - Largest and most southern, grown just below Cote de Brouilly;

Chenas- Smallest cru that ages well; Chiroubles- Highest altitude and most feminine; Cote de Brouilly- Steep slopes on Mont Brouilly; Fleurie- The queen of Beaujolais; Julienas - The name comes from Julies Caesar; Morgan- Improves with age after 1 to 2 years in the bottle; Moulin-A-Vent- Biggest and longest lived, oak aged, named after the windmill, not the village; Regnie- Newest Cru- 1988; Saint-Amour- Most northerly cru. Noveau - This fresh, fruity wine (raspberry and red current) is bottled in November and released in the US on the 3rd Thursday of November (4 million cases) and is best consumed within 4 months of bottling. Nouveau was first exported in the 1960"s and today is 18% of Duboeuf's business.

Georges Duboeuf started in the Maconnais, just north of Beaujolais, and today sells Macon-Villages, Saint-Veran and his first wine- Pouilly Fuisse. From the Cotes du Rhone (northern Rhone just south of Lyon to the southern Rhone near Avignon) come Cotes du Rhone red and white, Cote Rotie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Gigondas, Saint Joseph, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Luberon and Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise.

His grape varieties including Merlot, Syrah, Viognier, Gamay and Sauvignon Blanc that come from the Vin de Pays D'Oc in south- central France, on the Mediterranean, the largest wine region in the world. His Loire wines come from Vin De Pay Du Jardin De La France and finally there are the Georges Duboeuf Cuvee red and white table wines.

Georges has organized his wines into several categories, including the flower Label which is blended from coops and growers including Beaujolais, the Crus, Macon and the classic varieties. The Prestige Label is from the oldest vineyards, the best of plant exposure and limited yield wines including: Julienas, Brouilly, Morgan, Fleurie, Moulin-A-Vent, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pouilly Fuisse.

The recently launched New Generation Reserves come in very colorful packaging and include Beaujolais , Chardonnay, Merlot, and Shiraz and some are kept for up to three years in barrel. His top of the line wines are the individual domaine producer Beaujolais with the names of each grower on the label. I visited two such growers; Domaine des Rosiers produces 10,000 cases of Moulin-A-Vent plus a small amount of Chenas. He began selling to Georges in 1976 and today proprietor Gerard Charvet sells him 80% of his 10,000 case production. Jean Ernest Descombes has 7,000 cases of Morgan that his daughter Nicole Descombes Savoye insists be bottled on her property. She started selling to Georges in 1968 who today takes 95% of her production.

Duboeuf in Romaneche - Thorin: There are two new building; each with a storage capacity of 1 million cases that were built between 1995 and 2000. Yet they still need more room since there are 5 million bottles stored without labels awaiting orders. There are bottling lines with a capacity of 4,000, 6,000, 8,000, 10,000 and one that can even handle 15,000 bottles per hour.

Remember Duboeuf has between 100 and 130 different labels available in the US. In 2002 they built their newest building, the Jardin Georges Duboeuf, with winemaking facilities for grapes from the over 80 winegrowers and a capacity of 120,000 cases. The building is open year round to the public and includes a museum and audiovisual center. Outside is the Jardin des Vignes with 6 small-scale theme gardens and a rose garden. To insure top quality George and Frank taste two hours every day and five hours per day after the harvest. My guide for most of my visit was Christian de Brises, the export manager who also travels to the US.

Plaisirs en Beaujolais - This name encompasses the Garden, Museum and Railroad Station. Georges has built the first museum relating to the vine and wine in France (The Hamlet of Wine) with a two hour tour either self-guided with audio visual available in English or a guided tour. At the end of the tour there is a wine tasting and the ever present gift shop. I had a quick tour of the museum that included a 3D film, winemaking techniques, cellar cooperage and vinification, glass, cork and capsules along with an art gallery, an animation theatre and a viticulture section. The museum is open 9AM- 6PM from April to August and 10AM-5PM the rest of the year.

The museum is just part of the Hamlet which also includes La Gare reflecting Georges and Frank's fascination with trains. On the ground floor is the Imperial carriage of Napoleon III dating from 1855. The original railroad station was constructed in 1954 and the first floor now contains a collection of miniature trains and a model railroad setup. There is also a private collection of railroad memorabilia and the basement has video and film rooms. The hours of La Gare are 10AM-7PM May through October and 10AM-6PM the rest of the year. The complete visit costs $25 and it is $13 for only the garden tour.

More Information - www.beaujolais.com, www.duboeuf.com, www.hameauenbeaujolais.com

Part 2- A Day in the Rhone with Guigal- In addition to my stay at Lyon's Sofitel Bellecour, I spent two nights at the Minotel Hotel de La Loire directly across the street from the main railroad station. Ampuis is less than an hour's drive north and I was surprised than Philippe Guigal drove into Lyon to pick me up. A lot has changed since I last met him some 20 years ago. Robert Parker: "From this firms Cotes du Rhone to excellent Chateauneuf-du-Pape, exquisite Condrieu and mind-boggling Cote Rotie, there is no winemaker on planet Earth who has produced so many compelling wines irrespective of the vintage conditions as Marcel Guigal". And a superstar was born.

Back in 1924 Marcel's father Etienne began working at J.Vidal-Fleury when he was 14 and became the general manager in the 1930's before leaving in 1946 to start E. Guigal. His son Marcel joined the firm in 1961 and his son Philippe in 1997 with a degree in viticulture and oenology.

In 1984 Marcel bought the firm J. Vidal-Fleury and today both companies operate completely separately. There is a similarity with the Duboeuf family since there is always a family member at the winery. When Philippe picked me up at my hotel in Lyon his dad was in Paris on business and his mother was incapacitated at home (attached to the winery) after an operation on her foot, yet she still managed to oversee everything.

In the Guigal cellars there is a Roman stone dating to 1216 and Philippe told me he was due to move into Chateau D'Ampuis (the town of Ampuis was founded over 2,400 years ago) in the late spring. By comparison, J Vidal-Fleury is a youngster, having started in 1781. Guigal's oldest cellar, which is a natural 55 degrees with 95% humidity, used to be owned by J. Vidal-Fleury; the two newest cellars were built 10 and 4 years ago to accommodate their 1 1/2 million bottle storage capacity.

Guigal has made its reputation with Cote Rotie, especially the three single vineyards that are aged 42 months in cask. There is La Mouline (5,000 bottles), La Turque (4,800 bottles) that once was part of the Fleury portfolio and now gives Guigal a vineyard in the Cote Brune and La Landonne (10,000 bottles) which was planted the year Philippe was born.

Philippe believes that St. Joseph will be their next breakthrough wine and they have released two white and three red St. Joseph's including a single vineyard for each color. I have been a fan of the Cotes du Rhone and at about $12 it is a terrific value. My other favorite is the Cote Rotie Chateau D'Ampuis which was started in 1995 and uses grapes from 6 different vineyards, aged for three years and priced between the Cote Rotie and the three single vineyards. Gaining in reputation is their Condrieu sourced from purchased grapes and the two acres of vineyards they own which produces their single vineyard La Doriane. Philippe and I discussed a major problem for small to medium size French companies; the French law that now restricts workers to a 35 hour work week (they get paid for 39 hours) and no overtime. For that reason they close Friday afternoon and all weekend. This presents a problem during the harvest and in the winemaking process.

Since everything is hand picked with no mechanical harvesting and with 6 million bottles produced - all are being supervised by the three Guigal's. There are only 15 other people in the whole company, but not counting vineyard workers. The US is their best market with over 100,000 cases sold through Fred Ek and his Ex Cellar company who has never been a written contract, only a handshake.

Both of these family owned companies are true examples of hands-on operations and of a caring, loving relationship with the product, their workers and their importer partners in the US. Big may be better but quality in both wine and people is very obvious. I was a fan before arriving at Duboeuf & Guigal and am now the official unpaid cheerleader for both companies.

More Information- www.sofitel.com, www.minotel.com, www.guigal.com

Part 3- Short Visits with J.Vidal-Fleury and Beaucastel- The firm was founded in 1781(the oldest firm in the Rhone Valley) by Joseph Andre Vidal who in 1787 greeted Thomas Jefferson in Ampuis and plied him with Vin d'Ampuis (later to be called Cote Rotie) and Condrieu. His great grandson married a Fleury and when his son Joseph Vidal-Fleury died in 1979 none of the children were involved with the company and the firm floundered.

In 1985 Etienne Guigal (who had worked for Joseph Vidal) and his son Marcel acquired the operation and placed it under the watchful eye of Jean-Pierre Rochias assisted by Jacques Regnier-Vigouroux, the export manager, who was my tour guide. Today they still run the company completely separately from E. Guigal, except they share a vineyard manager. In 2005 they will begin construction of a new winery.

J. Vidal-Fleury's style differs from Guigal in the use of less oak and immediate drink-ability. There are 25 acres planted in vines in Cote Rotie with two of those being their single vineyard- La Chatillonne (4,000 bottles). The total production of the company is about 83,000 cases with but five people running the operation. Forty percent of their wine is sold in France and the US is their biggest export market. All their red wines, including Cotes du Rhone, spend at least 4 months in oak.

In a bit over an hour I traveled from Lyon to Avignon by TGV fast train and was picked up for my tour and tasting by Francois Langlois, the sommelier for Chateau Beaucastel. In 2002 they did not produce a red Beaucastel as 60% of the harvest was lost due to heavy rains.

They produce between 180,000-200,000 bottles of Beaucastel and single vineyards and 100,000 bottles of Coudoulet Cotes du Rhone from vines that are an average age of 50 years. 70% of their production is exported with 30% of that coming to their number one market, the US. Francois prepared a very interesting tasting for me showing examples of all 14 grape authorized for inclusion in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (we were taught there were 13 varieties; the 14th is white Grenache) each vinified separately and tasted before the blending process.

They include: Mouvedre, both white & red Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Picpoul, Rousanne etc. In 1909 the Perrin family acquired Beaucastel and today Jean-Pierre & Francois Perrin along with the fifth generation of Marc, Pierre & Thomas Perrin operate the firm.

The low rainfall and Mistral winds dry and clear the air, and combine with long sunshine hours and high temperatures to give Beaucastel its distinct terroir. The limestone soil is stony and porous, allowing a deep root system. The estate is about 320 acres, of which 250 are planted with vines, seventy within Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Chateau de Beaucastel), 30 within the Cotes du Rhone (Coudoulet de Beaucastel). No chemical fertilizers, pesticides or insecticides are used since Beaucastel has farmed organically since 1964.

The walled city of Avignon was home to the Papacy during the 14th Century and they built the Palace of The Popes during the period 1334-1362. The Clarion Hotel Cloitre St.Louis was my home and is a perfect starting point for visits to the southern Rhone & Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

More Information- www.choicehotelseurope.com, www.palais-des-papes.com, www.vins-rhone.com, www.avignon.fr

SoGoNow.com by: Ronald Kapon on: 8:15 PM

January 20, 2006

The Galapagos Rocks

By Sheree Bykofsky and Caroline Woods

The Galapagos rocks! Literally. As you trek over lava rocks, you might be lucky enough to see a volcano erupting from one of the 19 islands that form the dazzling archipelago. The Galapagos Islands are paradise to cruise ships large and small filled with outdoor adventurers, animal enthusiasts, bird watchers, swimmers, snorkelers, hikers and nature lovers. Penguins, owls, whales and dolphins: they're all here in the stunning islands of the Galapagos.

Start your exciting soft adventure trip with one non-stop flight from the U.S. to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Stay one night at the upscale Hotel Oro Verde and then take an AeroGal flight in the morning to San Cristobal in the Galapagos, where your tour begins. For people with good sea legs who like to travel in small groups, the 20-passenger Ecoventura fleet of small motor-yachts, an intimate cruise experience halfway between luxury and roughing it, is an excellent choice. Each cabin has a hot shower facility, a moderately comfortable bed or bunk and air conditioning. The Dolphin deck provides the most space during your cruise experience, while the lower decks are more snug. The islands are surprisingly far apart and require overnight journeys. Ships can be rocky. Choose a larger ship if you are prone to being seasick.

The naturalists (two per yacht!) are very knowledgeable and are eager to explain every detail of topography, geology and zoology. They'll tell you that the Galapagos Islands were made famous when Charles Darwin visited in the nineteenth century to study their rich variety of wildlife. Coming face-to-face with hundred-year-old turtles is a humbling and awe-inspiring experience, but that is just the beginning. You'll be thrilled to watch blue-footed boobies soar elegantly into the air and then torpedo dive in groups into the ocean. See a cormorant hanging itself out to dry. Watch the red-billed tropicbird play hit and miss finding its tiny home along the cliff.  Witness the flirty, funny courtship dance of the waved albatross and watch as male frigate birds inflate their enormous bright red pouches to attract mates. The Galapagos are a bird-lover's dream because here the birds show no fear. You can walk right up to them and observe their most intimate behaviors.

The islands are rightfully proud of their location on the equator. You're mistaken if you imagine it to be oppressively hot. The weather can get hot in the afternoon but is mostly dry and temperate. Rarely does it rain, and the evening brings with it a pleasant, cool breeze. Ecuador itself boasts so many climates from the Andes to the coast to the rainforest to the islands. On any given day, you can ski in the morning and swim with sea lions in the afternoon.

Every island presents a unique pleasure: the chance to examine up close a different exotic species, to look into the soft eyes of a baby sea lion. Share a private moment with a red-footed booby as she regurgitates squid to nourish her insistent infant. Find an even more spectacular view from a bluff. Trek over the moonscapes created by lava formations. The technicolor palette of the Galapagos includes red sand, white sand, cobalt blue water, colorful birds and spectacular fish at every turn.

Watch an iguana chomp on a cactus right through the thorns, and you'll begin to care less about creature comforts. The islands are the perfect escape from dirty and busy city life. No eating or gum chewing are allowed on the islands, and you won't find any litter at all. Well-respected, well-preserved and well-marked, the Galapagos are an almost magical place, where tourists are mindful of nature's beauty. Do your soul a favor and escape to the Galapagos, where harmony rules.

IF YOU GO:

www.ecuador.com

www.vivecuador.com

Continental has direct flights to Guayaquil. For more information, visit www.continental.com

Galapagos Network

5805 Blue Lagoon Drive #160

Miami, FL 33126

email: info@galapagosnetwork.com

www.ecoventura.com 

Hotel Oro Verde

9 de Octubre Street

P.O. Box 09-01-9636

Guayaquil, Ecuador

www.oroverdehotels.com

Reservations: reservasgye@oroverdehotels.com

SoGoNow.com by: Sheree Bykofsky on: 2:52 PM

January 17, 2006

Beautiful Brussels on a Budget: Experiencing the richness of Belgium's capital without spending a fortune

By Linda Fasteson

During the special times in our lives, like the holiday season, or when traveling afar, it's hard to curb the urge to overspend. Although a few splurges here and there do add to the fun, creating memorable experiences need not be expensive.

At the end of a wonderful river cruise along the Rhine, we arrived in Belgium, a kingdom about size of Maryland. We didn't want to miss the capital, and, with a little planning, added two glorious and affordable days of the best of Brussels.

Accommodations

We searched our favorite websites, and found the best pricing for accommodations at www.hotelopia.com , 1-866-321-1730, a European leisure travel company that offers reduced rates in Europe and the US, is accessible 24/7, and has a lowest price guarantee

The Mercure Royal Crowne Brussels, on Rue Royal, adjacent to the Botanical Gardens and a metro stop, bordered on the museums and tourist attractions and offered good value for comfortable accommodations. The rate included a bountiful buffet breakfast.

Getting Around

Signs in Brussels are in two languages-Flemish, similar to Dutch, language of the Flemings in the north, and French, language of the Walloons in the south. English is widely spoken.

Most of the major sights of Brussels are within walking distance of one another. The Tourist Information Office, on the ground floor of Town Hall in Grand-Place, is THE place for transportation and museum passes, maps, and help with planning your visit. If you'll be visiting several museums, consider the Brussels Card, a 72-hour pass for admission to 30 museums, use of public transport, and discounts.

The Sights

Brussels is a melting pot, an international culture in a commercial, financial, and political center, best known as headquarters of NATO and administrative center of the European Union. The skyline is one of modern skyscrapers, but the heart of the city is in its historical center of glorious medieval buildings and impressive museums.

Brussels' Lower Town, traditionally the poorer area of workers and immigrants, has narrow, winding streets and brick buildings. The wealthy and aristocratic resided in Upper Town, with its tree-lined wide boulevards, large public squares, mansions, and the palaces of 18^th and 19^th century.

The place to begin is Grand-Place (Grote Markt), built as a 13^th century merchants' center, and one of Europe's most beautiful market squares. This cobblestoned UNESCO World Heritage site is dominated by the 315' off-center spire of the intricate Gothic Town Hall (Hotel de Ville), built in 1402, and one of the few original buildings not destroyed by Louis XIV's cannons. If you take the tour of this building, don't miss the art and tapestries of the Maximilian Room and the baroque Council Chamber.

The original wooden guild houses of Grand-Place were rebuilt in the 17^th century in the elegant gabled and gilded Flemish Baroque style that stands today.  In spring and summer, there's a colorful flower market by day, and illumination of the facades by night.

Opposite Town Hall is King's House (Maison du Roi), 1536, home of the Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles (City of Brussels Museum). Its collections include fine paintings, tapestries, silver, porcelain, and detailed scale models of the old historic city, but it is best known for its collection of over 800 costumes for the Mannekin Pis, donated by visiting heads of state. Follow the crowd from the Grand-Place to Petite Julien, better known as  Mannekin Pis, a small bronze statue of a boy relieving himself into fountain, the best-known symbol of this city.

Browse the Place de Grand Sablon for upscale antique shops, art galleries, the weekend antiques market, and stylish restaurants in gabled mansions. Stop at Notre Dame du Sablon Church, founded in 1304 by the Guild of Crossbowmen, as their guild church.

You'll recognize Place du Petit Sablon by the wrought iron fence with 48 bronze statues representing the medieval guilds. Nearby is the Musée des Instruments Musique (Museum of Musical Instruments), in a beautifully renovated Art Nouveau building, formerly Old England shops. Infrared headphones bring you the sounds of instruments from around the world and throughout the centuries.

For a picnic, find a bench at Parc de Bruxelles, in front of the palace. The first shots in Belgium's war of independence were fired here.

Walk to the Palace of Justice and on to the Place du Jeu-de-Balle for the daily Marche aux Puces (flea market) from 7am-2pm. There's a public elevator at Palace of Justice, linking Upper and Lower Town.

If you have time for just one museum, choose the Musée aux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium). Its Musée d'Art Ancien presents one of the world's finest collections of 15^th to 18^th century Belgian and international painters in chronological order, including outstanding works by van der Weyden and van Eyck, Bruegel, Hals, and Rubens. The connected Musée d'Art Moderne has a floor plan that spirals downward from the 19^th c. to the present, descending to collections by such artists as Matisse, Dali, Miro, Klee, Chagall, and, of course, Belgian Surrealist Rene Magritte.

Comic strips speak a universal language in this multicultural kingdom. Unique to Brussels is Centre Belge da la Band Dessinee (Belgian Center of Comic Strip Art), known locally as CeBeBeDe, with such cartoon characters as Tintin, Gaston Lagaffe, Smurfs, and Spiderman.

The Gothic Cathedral de St-Michel et Ste-Gudule, begun in the 13th century under the Duke of Brabant, was completed three centuries later by the Hapsburgs with the addition of magnificent Renaissance stained glass windows. A Gregorian choir performs on Sundays. Check the concert schedule. Photographs of royal weddings and funerals conducted here are in displayed near the entrance.

Belgium is renowned for tapestries, diamonds, and lace, but there are less costly shopping alternatives, like rich Belgian chocolate. Avenue Louise may be the fashionable place to be seen, but Rue Neuve is less expensive. For a more exotic shopping experience, try the street market with Arabic and Southern European influences at Place Bara near Gare du Midi on Sundays.

Dining Out

Midday is a good time for a break, and lunches out tend to be half the cost of dinners. Menu refers to the plat du jour or dish of the day, a best buy. The Carte, or Kaart, lists other options. Grocery stores, bakeries, and sidewalk stalls are good sources of local specialties for a picnic in a scenic spot.

You must try one of the big pots of mosselen (mussels) in Brussels, and frites (fries), twice fried and crunchy, eaten with mayonnaise. Other specialties are tomates (shrimp stuffed tomatoes), anguilles au vert (eels in sauce), boudin (sausage) waterzooi (fish or chicken stew) and broodjes (baguettes with fillings). Buy gaufres, vanilla flavored waffles served with jam or an array of other toppings, from vendors around the Grand-Place. And don't forget a stop at a chocolate shop for Belgian pralines!

There are hundreds of varieties of rich Belgian beers. Often flavored with fruits, there are brown, red, and white beers, Trappist ales brewed by monks, tart non-malted regional lambic types, and the champagne-like geuze, a blend of lambic beers. But beware-Belgian beer may contain up to 12% alcohol!

Three restaurants were recommended to us for traditional Belgian cuisine in and around Grand-Place. T'Kelderke, Grand Place 15, in the cellar of a guild house, was the recommendation of locals, and the scrumptious lunch special was the best buy around.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles, 13 rue de Bouchers, is an exception on this street of tourist traps, family run, and has served such celebrities as Danny Devito and Laurel and Hardy. Taverne du Passage, an Art Deco brasserie in Galeries Royales St-Hubert, one of the oldest covered shopping malls in Europe, was a favorite of Surrealist painter Rene Magritte. Might this be the rack where he'd hang his bowler hat?

Outside the City

With more time, we'd have ventured by bus or subway beyond the petite ring encircling the city. Bus W goes to Waterloo, the site of the battle that ended Napoleon's reign. Atomium, is a 335'nine-sphered model of an iron molecule, magnified 165 billion times, built for the 1958 Brussels World Fair. Visitors can walk inside the spheres and catch the view from the deck. It's the site of Brupark!, a mini-Europe, 1/25 scale versions of Europe's most famous buildings, an attraction befitting this multicultural center of Europe.

Travel Light

Unencumbered by heavy luggage you can take an inexpensive train to and from the airport, avoiding hefty taxi fares. With fewer expenses, you'll soon be planning your next adventure!

Special Offer

For a limited time, Hotelopia is offering a special 10% discount to my readers over the age of 50. You must mention Code 393939 to get the discount.

If you go:

Belgian Tourist Office: http://www.visitbelgium.com/brussels.htm

http://www.brusselsdiscovery.com/wabxlint/visitor/index.jsp?lg=EN

     

SoGoNow.com by: Linda Fasteson on: 5:08 AM | What do you think? (2)

January 16, 2006

Wow! It's Macau- A Sure Bet!

By Sandra Scott

Wow! It's not the Macau of yesteryear. A trip to Macau is a sure bet to change any preconceived ideas you may have been harboring of Macau based on casino advertisements or old movies. To think of Macau as the Vegas of the East is to miss the real Macau. Others put Macau at the end of long list of places they want to visit because their image of Macau is one derived for old movies- one of dingy waterfront cafes and dangerous alleys where all manner of decadence takes place.

My image of Macau was a mix of both. Macau is only 37 miles from Hong Kong making visiting a temptation too hard to resist. On the fast jet boat, I knew I was entering a new learning curve as the modern ferry whizzed along the shipping lane. Before we docked at Macau's new ferry terminal, we watched an American video and the attendants took orders for food and beverages.

Macau is an intriguing and unique blend of Europe and Asia. The influence of the Portuguese weaves itself through the fabric of Chinese life producing a unique culture all of its own. Baroque churches and colonial mansions are side by side with Chinese temples.

Start exploring Macau at the top of the hill. St. Paul's, perched on a hilltop, is most spectacular when illuminated against a night sky but during the day it provides a panorama of the Macau. The facade of St. Paul's Cathedral is Macau's icon. The Cathedral dates back to the early 17th century and is the remains of the first Christian church in China. Like everything in Macau it, too, is a blend of East and West. Designed by an Italian Jesuit and built by Japanese Christian stonemasons who had fled persecution in Japan. A fire in 1835 destroyed all but the facade, which illustrates the history of Christianity in Asia including biblical quotations in Chinese.

Next to St. Paul's is Fortaleza de Monte, a good place to reflect on the defensive role it played against Dutch assault in 1600s. And, now part of the fort is the Macau Museum where one can get an overview of the energy that came together to form Macau. Exhibits illustrate life in Macau over the past four centuries, emphasizing the multi-cultural character of the city created by the coming together of people of different faiths and life styles resulting a distinctive Macanese culture.

From St. Paul's descend the steps and wander slowly into the heart of the city. Brush shoulders with the Mancanese as they go about their daily routine. Stop to watch almond cookies being made. Try some- yummy! If you need a rest, stroll down a side street where you will discover little courtyards, sit on a bench under a tree, and you will think you are in a small town in Portugal.

Continue into the heart of the city and Senado Square with its wave-patterned stone mosaic that is symbolic of the blending of East and West. Stop in the 17^th century St. Dominic's Church with its magnificent altar, decorated wooden ceiling, and religious art museum housed in the old belfry.

Along the Pua Almirante Sergio it is easy to find a restaurant to sample of Macanese food that brings together the best of Portuguese, Chinese, and Indian, and Malaya cooking - tasty blend of East and West. At the Litoral Restaurant dine on African Chicken or Linguado Macau Sole accompanied, of course, with a fine Portuguese wine.

The classic Chinese temple of A-Ma rests at the base of Penha Hill. Its name derives from Tin Hau, Queen of Heaven, or the Honored Mother. Myth has it that a poor girl saved the fishing vessel, on which she was travelling, from the ravages of a storm. In tribute to her this temple was built and is a place of pilgrimage for Macau's fishing community.

Another temple dedicated to the power of female intervention is the Kun Iam Temple, built in honor of the Goddess of Mercy. Kum Ian's statue gracefully towers over the Ecumenical Center of Eastern Religions and is a place where people of all faiths can rest, reflect and meditate.

But Macau is much more. It is colonial neighborhoods, quiet parks, sandy beaches, hiking in the woods, duty free shopping, and festivals. Nothing highlights the multicultural nature of Macau better that its festivals- from Chinese New Year to the Feast of the Drunken Dragon, from Macau Arts Festival to the International Music Festival, from the Macau Open Golf Tournament to the Macau Grand Prix.

And, of course, there is the gambling for which Macau has long been famous. Macau is said to have the widest range of casino games in the world. Try your luck with baccarat, blackjack, roulette, boule, "big and small," or fan-tan or feed your coins to what the locals call "hungry tigers" (slot machines).

Visitors arrive on day trips from Hong Kong and leave vowing to return the next time to spend many days. Land reclamation means that Macau is constantly growing and changing.

Macau may be small is size but it is big on variety. For more on 'Mazing Macau check  www.macau.tourism.gov.mo

Images by Macau Tourism, Sandra Scott, www.sanscott.com, John Scott

    

SoGoNow.com by: Sandra Scott on: 7:06 PM

January 15, 2006

Moorish Arches and Other Spanish Delights: Ten Days in Andalusia

Story by Peter I. Rose

Photos by Peter and Hedy Rose

After seven days of motor sailing in the western Mediterranean on the "Wind Surf," one of Holland America's three Windstar vessels, we disembarked in the Andalusian port of Malaga, ready for new adventures.

On the early November day of our landing, the sky was azure blue, the temperature a mild 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and, being "off-seaso