May 20, 2006

Montreal: The City of Festivals and So Much More

A warm "Bonjour!" as we entered the auberge reminded us that we needn't cross the pond to experience European ambience. A flower-bedecked horse-drawn calehe clip-clopped on the cobblestone street, passengers rapt with the romance of the moment.

Our neighbors to the north exude a joie de vivre and Montreal, just 45 miles from the US border, offers a vibrant blend of a modern lifestyle with Old World charm, and experiences rivaling those of the other great cities of the world.

Whether for a vacation or simply a weekend get-away, cosmopolitan Montreal has it all--- some of the best of the past and present, and diversity and diversions to suit all tastes and budgets.

History

Situated at foot of Mt. Royal, for which it is named, the island of Montreal is a port city, part of a system of canals connecting the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Ocean. Once the Indian settlement Hochelaga, it gained the attention of Jacques Cartier (1535) and Samuel de Champlain (1603) for fur trade. Founded in 1642 as Ville Marie de Montreal by French missionaries hoping to spread Catholicism, it became an important fur trading center and base for continued western explorations. It was fortified in the early 18th century, surrendered to the British during the French and Indian War, and occupied briefly by Americans during the American Revolution.

As the city grew in the 19th century with immigration from England, Scotland, and Ireland, the wall was dismantled. The Lachine Canal, Canadian Pacific Railway headquarters and Industrial Revolution brought increased prosperity to Montreal- by then the economic center and capital of Canada.

Mansions were built in Outremont and Westmount. However, the Great Depression and World War II period left Old Montreal in decline until protected as an historic district in the 1960s. Public support and entrepreneurship have restored and revitalized this area.

Site of the World's Fair, Expo '67, and 1976 Summer Olympics, Montreal developed into a dynamic city attracting millions of visitors annually.

Language

Montreal is the second-largest French-speaking city in the world. Try at least a little of the official language. Bonjour, bonsoir, and merci will be well-received and will give you the sense of being worlds away. You needn't be fluent. Most people are bilingual, and English is spoken widely, especially in the areas frequented by tourists.

Getting Around

Streets run parallel to the river and numbers are given as east or west of Saint-Laurent Boulevard, "The Main", traditionally separating the English and French districts.

Walking is a great way to experience the city, buses and cabs are plentiful, and the Metro is clean and convenient. Three and seven day transportation passes are a good value. The Montreal Museum Pass, available at and tourist information centers and some hotels, includes 3 consecutive day admission to 32 museums and other attractions and can be combined with a transportation pass.

Old World Ambience

To best experience what this once-walled city has to offer, opt for an auberge, a Continental-style inn, in the heart of Old Montreal. Elegant 18th and 19th structures of this historic district--former homes, shops, and warehouses-- have been restored to reflect their original grandeur.

Auberge Bonaparte is a charming four-star European-style gem with a romantic, Old World ambience and modern refinements situated in the heart of Old Montreal. The 30 rooms and suite are above Bonaparte, a top-notch classic French restaurant with an extensive bill of fare including a delectable six-course tasting menu and budget-pleasing Table d'Hote (multi-course specials). Rooms, furnished in the Louis-Philippe style, have marble bathrooms and French dormer windows that swing open to connect you with the sights and sounds of this captivating historic district. The rooftop terrace overlooks the city. A scrumptious breakfast of fresh fruit, crepes with maple syrup, or omelets (try the spinach and brie) and croissants, juice, and coffee is included. For that special getaway, splurge for the suite with a balcony overlooking the gardens of Notre Dame Basilica.

The Centaur Theater features English-language plays, and Notre Dame offers concerts, just a few steps away. The more casual sister property, Auberge Les Passants du Sans Soucy, accessed through one of the area's many art galleries, is located around the corner on historic Rue St. Paul, a treasure trove of architecture, shopping, museums, and international dining choices.

Simply wander the streets of Old Montreal. Charming by day, by night gaslights glow and architectural treasures are highlighted by an illumination system.

Pointe a Calliere, Montreal's Museum of Archaeology and History, is built on the excavated area where the first settlers traded with natives. A multimedia show projected atop the ruins precedes a tour guided by historians.

Benedict Arnold, Benjamin Franklin, and General Montgomery visited Chateau Ramazay, originally the residence of the 11th governor. It's now an historical showcase with stunning carved mahogany, gardens, and basement displays of early everyday life.

Across from Chateau Ramazay is the grand Hotel de Ville, the City Hall. It was from this balcony that Charles de Gaulle, invited as guest of honor at the 1967 World's Fair, gave his controversial "Vive le Quebec libre!" (Long live free Quebec!) speech endorsing Quebec separatism.

Adjacent is Place Jacques Cartier, on a street sloping down to the port. In summer, an assortment of performers-- acrobats, magicians, musicians, artists, and more-- delight the crowds. Rent a bicycle, rollerblade, or relax and enjoy Quebec specialties at one of the many outdoor cafes.

The City of Movies is a great place to stumble upon a film in the making. Le Plateau, Saint Laurent Boulevard, and Rue Sainte-Helene are popular locations.

Montreal's only remaining fort is across the river on Ile St. Helene. In summer, the Stewart Museum's collection is enlivened with costumed interpreters and re-enactments of 18th century military drills with French soldiers, La Compagnie franche de la Marine, and Scottish bagpipers, the Olde 78th Fraser Highlanders.

Musee des maitres et artisans du Quebec presents work handcrafted since the city's17th century founding. At Economuseums throughout the city, see artisans at work.

Near Notre Dame Basilica a fast food lunch comes with a side of history. McDonald's is in the former home of Sieur Antoine Laumet de La Mothe Cadillac, who founded a colony in what is now the city of Detroit.

Religious Heritage

"This is the first time I was ever in a city where you couldn't throw a brick without breaking a church window. Yet I was told you are going to build one more..." Mark Twain, during his first visit to Montreal, 1881.

The strong Catholic tradition that continues in this region founded by missionaries is evidenced in its architecture. Three offer particular insight into the makings of this city.

A visit to Montreal would not be complete without a stop at the magnificent Gothic Revival Basilica of Notre Dame. Tours are in French or English, and at night a sound and light show, "And then, there was Light", highlights the features and heritage of this masterpiece.

St. Joseph's Oratory, on Mount Royal, was the dream of Brother Andre, a humble doorkeeper whose devotion to St. Joseph led to his being regarded as a miracle worker. The dome of this pilgrimage site is second in height only to St. Peter's in Rome. Inside are Louis Parent's religious woodcarvings. Renovations are underway in preparation for the 2008 visit by the Pope.

Climb the steps of the steeple of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, or Sailors' Church, the city's oldest stone chapel, to a chapel where sailors prayed for safe passage and the highest publicly accessible view of Old Montreal. The adjacent Marguerite Bourgeoys Museum depicts Montreal's first teacher and Amerindian life.

Olympic Park

The tallest inclined tower in the world leans at 45 degree angle and dominates the skyline. Built for the 1976 Summer Olympics, the funicular ascends to unequalled panoramic views of the city. More than a zoo or aquarium, experience four recreated climates and ecosystems of the Americas at the adjacent Biodome.

Enjoy the sights and scents in a global tour of horticultural treasures in ten greenhouses and 30 outdoor theme gardens at the Botanical Gardens. The Japanese and Chinese gardens are soothing oases and popular picnic spots. Adjacent is Insectarium- the largest collection in North America.

"The Islands"

Drive on the Canadian Grand Prix race circuit, test gravity on a La Ronde, the province's largest amusement park, or picnic at the beach. Jean Drapeau Park encompasses the two islands, Ile de Helene, and Ile Notre-Dame.

Expo 67's American pavilion by Buckminster Fuller has been transformed into Biosphere, an entertaining center of environmental education, with colourful interactive exhibits and multimedia presentations.

Try your luck at the government-operated Casino, open 24/7, in the former French and Quebec pavilions. It features over 3,000 slot machines, 120 gaming tables, a cabaret, performance hall, and a variety of restaurants and bars.

Atop the Casino, the elegant Nuances Restaurant, with a 5 Diamond AAA and CAA rating, offers contemporary creative French cuisine and exceptional wines and liqueurs. Seasonal menus and a tasting of house specialties are available. Celebrate with the Menu Intuition , "a world of taste and surprise". Sampling each course is like opening an elegantly wrapped gift. Artistic presentation, subtle textures and flavors, fragrant aromas- this is an evening of sensory delight.

Fabulous Food

Join locals and save money to splurge on a night on the town. Public Markets, like Atwater or Jean-Talon in Little Italy offer fresh produce, sausages and meats, freshly baked breads, great cheeses, and Quebec wine or ice cider for a picnic. Montreal has the most restaurants per resident in all North America, and its cuisine is a cultural cornucopia as diverse as its population.

Try croissants and cafe au lait at a boulangerie. Fairmount and St-Viateur, named for their street locations, are the best known bakeries for Montreal bagels, made with eggs and cooked in wood ovens. Landmark Schwartz on St. Laurent is a favorite for Montreal's smoked meats.

The most fashionable spot for High Tea is the opulent St. James Hotel. The Rolling Stones booked the entire place during their last concert.

Unique and trendy, the bustling bistro Au Pied de Cochon incorporates fois gras into nearly every dish--including poutine, the already decadent French fries with gravy and cheese curds, and their signature duck in a can. For dessert try Pouding Chomeur, a Poor Man's Cake topped with a maple syrup sauce.

Restaurant districts include Duluth Street and the hip Plateau area (many are BYOB), and, day or night, terraces along Crescent, and boulevards Saint-Denis and Saint-Laurent, between Sherbrooke and Mont-Royal.

Glorious Museum Quarter and the Golden Square Mile

To the east is the Golden Square Mile, with mansions, many donated to McGill University, five-star hotels, designer fashions, art galleries, and fine restaurants.

Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, one of the best in North America, contains impressive collections of art through the ages and impressive temporary exhibits. The vast collection includes ancient artefacts, European masterpieces, decorative, Canadian, Inuit and Amerindian treasures- and admission to the permanent collection is free.

The McCord Museum is a teaching and research facility. It exhibits important collections of costumes, textiles, photographs reflecting the history and culture of Canada.

To the west, in an award-winning building, the Canadian Center for Architecture includes a 19th century Montreal home, Shaughnessy House.

Downtown, the Contemporary Art Museum is linked to underground pedestrian network.

Shopping Network

In Old Montreal, the boutiques of Bonsecours Market feature high-quality regional fashions and crafts.

Saint-Catherine Street has the highest concentration of stores in Canada, and connects to the Underground City, a 20 mile network of pedestrian walkways, Metro stations, department stores, boutiques, linking to businesses, hospitals, churches, and universities.

Find a wide selection at department store, La Baie, specialty items in ethnic neighbourhoods, or a bagpiper at Ogilvies. Antiques are along Rue Notre Dame between Peel and Atwater or Amherst by St. Catherine.

Luxury shopping? Jewelry from Birks includes that signature blue box and ribbon. True to its history, Montreal remains a fur capital of the world.

Entertainment Galore

Cheer your professional sports team at the Bell Center, chuckle at Just for Laughs Comedy Club, or catch the Cirque du Soleil, founded here. There's the Grand Ballet, the Symphony at Notre Dame, or L' Opera de Montreal. The island of Montreal is ringed with bicycle and walking paths, parks, and benches.

Montreal has been named the top cycling city in North America by Bicycling Magazine. The nine miles of cycling and walking paths between Old Montreal and the Lachine canal is a favorite part of the cycling network. Enjoy a European-style breakfast at Atwater Market, another good place to start.

Exploring the St Lawrence River is a great way to spend or end your day. Take a sightseeing or dinner cruise on Le Bateau-Mouche, a Parisian-style riverboat.

Place Jean-Paul Riopelle in the International Quarter is named for the Quebec sculptor who designed the bronze sculpture and fountain La Joute (The Game). Summer evenings, hourly displays include a surrounding mist, water jets, and a ring of fire.

Outside the island, in Delson/Saint-Constant, visitors can take a ride on a train or vintage streetcar. The Canadian Railway Museum highlights the importance of the railway in the nation's development and has Canada's largest collection of railway vehicles, documents and memorabilia.

To the Southwest, linking Lake Saint-Louis at Lachine to Old Port of Montreal, is the Lachine Canal National Historic Site of Canada. Fur Trade, in a 19th century stone warehouse built for storage of furs and trade good for trappers, was an arrival and departure point for trading expeditions upstream from the rapids.

Let the Fun Begin

With over 90 a year, Montreal is known as the City of Festivals, with something for everyone. This summer Flora Montreal in the Old Port complements the 75th anniversary of the Botanical Gardens, the sky is illuminated with International Fireworks Competition, International Jazz Festival, Just for Laughs Festival, International Film Festival, and Grand Prix Canada are but a few.

It's a happening city and a place to relax, with exciting places to discover and a nostalgic step back in time. Whether for a romantic getaway, a family vacation, or simply a change of pace, there is as much to offer as you choose to enjoy.

Directory

Montreal Tourist Office- www.tourisme-montreal.org, 1-877-BONJOUR (266-5687)

Auberge Bonaparte- www.bonaparte.com, (514) 844-1448

Transportation

http://www.stm.info/

Ask for a transit map at the station.