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A Viking Exploration of Europe: Through the rivers and heart of history...
By Linda Fasteson
Perhaps it was our Scandinavian heritage that drew him to the Viking River Cruises name, but when my husband, Roger, was looking for a way to celebrate my 50th birthday, he came upon a
trip including Austria, Germany and the Netherlands that seemed ideal. Travel was a perfect present for me, and a cruise meant his not having to drive, carry suitcases, or concern himself with the logistics of travel. Little did he know that this journey was to become one of our most cherished memories. I didn't learn about it until a few days before departure. "Country club casual" was the norm for dinner, and with no formal nights packing was a snap. In fact, one couple we came to know on this trip brought only a carry-on bag each. In addition, nearly every shore excursion was included in the price of the trip. All we had to do was to show up, sit back, and enjoy.
Our 'European Adventure', as it is named, followed the Danube, Main Canal, and Rhine from Vienna to Amsterdam on the Viking Europe. Charlemagne, King Ludvig, and others had made attempts to connect the rivers, but it was not until 1992 that the canal and system of navigation locks was completed and it became possible to travel by river all 2000 miles between the North Sea and the Black Sea. The Viking Europe would take us along a most picturesque portion of this route while visiting grand and awe-inspiring cathedrals, monasteries, abbeys, palaces, and castles, as well as major cities, quaint villages, and vineyards, stopping along the way to get a closer look.
Unlike grand ocean-going cruise ships that sail along the coast, river ships venture through Europe's interior to places inaccessible to these larger ships. Our comfortable hotel, Viking Europe, moved with us, and we had to unpack only once. There is a large open-air sundeck, and a lounge area that serves many functions, as the place to gather for evening entertainment, meet with friends, or just relax and enjoy the panoramic views.
Viking Europe, which accommodates around 150 passengers, never felt crowded, and our band of fellow river cruisers did not overwhelm even the smallest villages we visited. In a group this size it is easy to find people with whom you'd like to spend more time, and that we did. We still keep in touch with several, from the United States and from Europe, all made easier by e-mail. Others have since become travel companions and treasured friends.
Mornings we had the option of joining the walking tour of the cities and towns where we were docked, or not, as we pleased. Passengers on Viking River Cruises are typically mature adults. To accommodate the range of passengers, there were usually two walking groups, one for those who enjoyed a brisk pace and another for those who preferred to go more slowly. We found the Viking River guides to be well-informed and land tour time well-spent.
Tours gave us an opportunity to become oriented to a new place, gain a historical perspective, and enjoy some local anecdotes. After a tour, we could either continue on our own or go back to the ship for lunch, and then plan our afternoon's activities. We were provided with maps, descriptions of the area, and cell numbers to reach our cruise manager, Harry, if a problem arose. Viking River Cruises left nothing to chance.
At the end of the day, we would return to the ship for a delectable open-seating dinner with opportunities to sample a variety of local cuisine or familiar standbys such as
chicken or steak. This was also a time to share the day's insights and discoveries with new friends made onboard.We looked forward each day to such simple pleasures as opening our stateroom curtains. Once we awakened to see a mother duck watching carefully as her ducklings bobbed up and down just outside our window. Another day, we saw - could it be? - an elephant flapping his ears. The circus was in town! We were immersed in the real Europe, and this was more than we had expected.
By day, we could climb castle walls for breathtaking views, stroll city streets or village lanes, or stop at a sidewalk café. The choice was ours. By night, we would return to our floating hotel to glide to our next destination while we slept and dreamed of adventures awaiting us upon awaking.
River cruises are for destination-oriented people who want to combine captivating scenery with some of Europe's history and culture. Onboard, there might be a daytime lecture or demonstration, such as strudel-making, and there was nightly entertainment, not of the Las-Vegas style of the mega-liners, but appropriate to the day's activities. It might be local talent, such as the minstrel who entertained us by playing his collection of medieval musical instruments, or the Regensburger Spatzen Quartett, or lively tunes by Otto, our resident musician. Anything more would have been too much of a distraction from the wonders that were just outside our stateroom window.
Arrival and beginning our exploration:
We were met at the baggage claim area of the Vienna airport by a Viking representative, and after identifying our luggage, were whisked off to the Viking Europe in a van. Refreshments were awaiting us on the ship, and we still had ample time to go out and discover some of Vienna before dinner. Our ship was docked next to the subway station, and was remaining there overnight, so it was easy to use this free time to explore on our own.
The next morning, Viking provided a city tour of Vienna by bus, after which we were dropped us off for a walking tour of the historic center of the city. Architecture is a visual guide through history, and Vienna's spoke volumes. The finest buildings of the Gothic age were churches and cathedrals, and an outstanding example and centerpiece of the area is St. Stephan's Cathedral, completed in medieval times. From its beginnings as a medieval castle, Hofburg Palace evolved with the power of the 600-year Habsburg reign to be the Imperial Palace, in the
opulent Baroque splendor for which Vienna is known. Our tour ended in this area, and some took one of the shuttles back to the ship. We continued on our own to the nearby Opera House, and then to the Ringstrass, the city's most prominent boulevard, featuring parks and buildings in a variety of styles. Later that afternoon we went to the outskirts of the city and toured the Baroque Schonnbrun Palace and some of its magnificent 500-acre grounds. Built as were most palaces of the day, to rival Versailles, it was the summer residence of the Habsburgs until the collapse of the monarchy in 1918. We stood in the same Hall of Mirrors where the six-year-old Mozart played for the Empress Maria Theresa and is said to have met Marie Antoinette. Unfortunately, we did not have time to stop and enjoy coffee and Sacher torte at one of Vienna's cafes. However the ship's staff had thought of everything, and we were treated to this specialty upon our return to the Viking Europe.
Viking River Cruises provided us with specially-prepared booklets that described the landscape and history, noting distances corresponding to the markers along the banks of the rivers and even whether to look left or right. On deck, there was often narration for notable sights, such as the castles along the Rhine. Our only responsibility was to be seated before passing under the low bridges that spanned the rivers.
And what destinations lay ahead! The next day we arrived in Melk, most famous for the Benedictine monastery perched high on a cliff. Known for its medieval scholarship, the monastery's lavish baroque library rivaled those of the palaces of Europe. We continued along the Wachau wine region to Linz, a Baroque town of Linzer Torte fame. Passau, well-located at the confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, showcased its prosperity in a cathedral housing the world's largest cathedral organ, with over 17,000 pipes. We were there on a Sunday, in time for a church service in a sanctuary whose beauty has set the standard by which I will measure all others.
As our voyage continued we came to Regensburg, a picturesque medieval city. From here we took a small boat through the chalk cliffs to the Weltenburg Monastery in Kelheim. A visit to Nuremburg, a lesson in history, had somber moments at the Hitler's rally ground and stadium and the Justice Palace, site of the Nuremburg War Crimes Tribunal. On a lighter note, we toured the medieval fortress and admired the Schoner Brunnen, showcasing the fine metalwork for which Nuremburg is known. A touching love story is associated with this beautiful fountain.
Bamberg, with a striking and unusual Town Hall built over the water after a dispute with the emperor, was a perfect place to stop for a local Rauchbier, or smoked beer. We were in the immaculately groomed region of half-timbered homes known as the Romantic Road. We toured through this area to the delightful and touristy Rothenburg, Germany's best-preserved medieval walled city, for sightseeing and an included German luncheon. Not to be missed is the Holy Blood Altar upstairs in St. Jakob's Church. Carved by Tillman Riemenshneider, it is considered one of the finest wood carvings anywhere. The Kriminalmuseum, with devices used for punishing medieval offenders, is a unique experience.
Sailing along the Franconian wine country was a feast for the eyes, and palate. The resplendent Wurzburg's Residenz of the Prince-Bishop rivaled any palace we had seen - awe through architecture at its best. We enjoyed little Rudesheim with its taverns, vineyards, and a unique museum of musical instruments. Each port seemed more special in its own way that the last. Then we were on to the Rhine, where fairytale-like castles abounded. Passing the legendary Lorelei Rock area, we captured castles and fortresses on film.
I felt the impending closure to this Viking adventure down the Danube, Main, and Rhine...all too soon, but then the finale was nothing less than Amsterdam. Our time was organized for us by Viking River Cruises so that we could experience the best of the city. A morning bus tour ended with an introduction to the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of Holland, most famous for its paintings by the Dutch masters. There was time for an optional canal cruise, which we postponed until after dinner, when the bridges would be illuminated, and the mood would be romantic.
We took a meandering walk back to the ship, stopping at flower markets and other points of interest along the way. In the afternoon, we toured the countryside and stopped to see the magnificent multi-national horticultural displays at the Floriade, held just once a decade. How much better could it get?
Those who have yet to discover Europe's river cruises should experience the romance at least once. Viking River is the largest river cruise line in the world and has won not only our confidence but also that of friends to whom we have recommended these vacations. I can hardly wait to travel with them again. Come to think of it, Roger is approaching a special birthday, too...
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Holland Tourist Office
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