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French village of St. Paul clings to past
By Meryl Pearlstein
St. PAUL, France - The French Riviera is dotted with villages, some clinging almost impossibly to the tops and sides of hills throughout the countryside. A favorite is St. Paul (also known as St. Paul-de-Vence), a marvelously preserved and restored gem of a medieval, hilltop village with cobblestone streets and virtually intact ramparts still protecting it from the waning factions of yore.
Just 12 miles outside of Nice, the village towers over the rolling hills and rich valleys of the Vence countryside.
The sight of the town has inspired artists throughout the years to sketch its precarious foothold in the sky. And you might want to park on a curb outside the stone arched climb into the village to draw this 16th century miracle.
Nearby will be the works of more famous artists at Colombe D'Or, originally a gathering place and cafe for young and unknown painters in the 1920s, and now one of the Riviera's toniest restaurants. While a seat at the walled, garden patio is a delight on one of the Riviera's azure-blue, sunny days, it is considered a coup to experience the old auberge itself.
Only those staying at the inn or having confirmed dining reservations are allowed a look at the Colombe's esteemed art collection. Artists who traded their works for food and lodging in the old days include Modigliani, Bonnard and Braques, and their work is on display.
Turning the bend, past the multigeneration boules (lawn bowling) competitions held daily across from the Cafe de la Place, you enter the medieval world of St. Paul, up a short climb and through a well- defined entry arch.
Ascending St. Paul's narrow pedestrian-only main street, the Rue Grande, visitors can almost touch the 17th and 18th century homes on each side, many filled with elegant and creative art and handicrafts galleries. The artist tradition continues at every turn, leading to the town's most spacious gathering spot, a square of sorts around an urn-shaped fountain.
Digressions up the stepped streets off the Rue Grande lead to such gems as the 12th century gothic church on the rue de la Castre, with a commanding position overlooking the village. France's rich religious heritage is revealed in the church's lavish interior decor, replete with colorful tapestries and flowers adjacent to traditional oil canvases and carvings.
An escape from the crowds and a particular delight at sunset is a stroll along the parapet walk adjacent to the thick stone wall ramparts that encircle St. Paul, with views of the Alps, the countryside and the sea.
Farther down the road, the Fondation Maeght is both an interior and exterior art museum that feels like a college campus. It's set in a rich green forest, with artworks all around. Designed by architect Jose Sert in 1964, the sprawling modern art museum ranks among France's most significant, with notable works by Chagall, Miro, Calder, Braques and Bonnard.
There's an expansive outdoor sculpture garden, and especially enchanting for families is the Labyrinthe de Miro, a statue-filled maze of trees, water and gargoyles.
To reach St. Paul, park your car very carefully in the car park down the road from the arch. Parking spaces are narrow and the spiraling turns in the garage require skillful negotiation. After exiting the garage, expect to be faced with numerous shops all hawking household items with the ubiquitous yellow and blue colors of Provence.
