South Africa will steal your heart and then haunt you. The country has a brutal beauty that entices you to visit and explore. There are many experiences to be had in South Africa: bush and beach, culture and nature. We opted to concentrate on the bush and the magnificent animals while we were there in March.

A visitor to South Africa quickly learns the ultimate experience is to see The Big Five: elephant, lion, rhino, leopard, cape buffalo. Be patient....it probably won't happen in one afternoon (or one night game ride). Over a two week period (not all in the bush), we saw three of the five. In Hazyview, a town near the crown jewel Kruger National Park, we encountered a British tourist who had scheduled nine weeks in the park to ensure she soaked in as much as possible. (The Europeans do take their vacations seriously!)

Kruger is a pilgrimage for those who want to see animals in the wild. Visitors are not allowed to get out of their cars (you will be fined). But you will find surprises everywhere: warthogs, giraffes, elephants, impalas, hippos, crocodiles, guinea fowl, baboons, zebras. On a ranger-guided night ride, we were chased by rhinos, saw a lioness feasting on prey, spotted a civet in a tree, a herd of kudu and witnessed a magnificent red sunset. As we left our rest camp, an elephant walked across the road and blocked the entrance, causing a Kruger-style traffic jam. Accomodations in the park range from the most basic to comfortable. Book ahead at http://www.sanparks.org/.

We also stayed outside of Hazyview in a lovely inn, Hamilton Guest House, off the highway, with gorgeous grounds. There are an abundance of places to stay in the Hazyview area because it is the gateway to the park. If you go, check out the new brew pub that opened in spring 2005 in Hazyview.

For those who seek a more luxurious experience with a private guide, there are dozens of private safari parks surrounding Kruger -- with hefty price tags! 

Animals are not the only thing to see in Mpumalanga Province. Nearby scenery is spectacular. We spent a day touring Blyde River Canyon, the potholes (unique rock formations at the bottom of waterfalls), God's Window and Mac Mac Falls. It was all breathtaking. At most of the spots where visitors stop, there are local artisans who sell their wares. Signs are posted to let you know that the sellers and products are local and important to the economy!

For contrast to our experience in the bush, we stopped for a night at Sun City, a casino-resort built during the apartheid era. Now integrated, Sun City offers gambling, a water park, parasailing, boats, rides, and a myriad of other entertainment. A range of four hotels are offered from "budget" (it's a relative term) to the "uber-resort" at the top of the hill. A Gary Player designed golf course beckons to the links enthusiasts. Or you can just hang out by any of the pools. 

If you are driving to Kruger, stop at the top of Long Tom Pass at Hops Hollow Inn (http://www.hopshollow.com/), the highest brewery in Africa. Look for the 22.2 milepost. We spent the night at this delightful 4 room inn. You will feel like you're in Scotland when the fog rolls in. And hosts Theo and Sori are the best hosts we have ever encountered they have all the local information you will need. Even if your schedule does not allow for a night here, it is a "must stop" to talk with them and enjoy a beer. Their first customers were arriving for a beer as we finished breakfast and checked out! 

My husband and I were also fortunate to be invited to a privately-owned educational game reserve in the Free State, about an hour and a half from Johannesburg. We were able to experience a close-up look at their cheetah breeding operation (and the first successful litter of 4-month olds), a trip to the nearby town of Parys on shopping day and tour of the township. It was a snapshot of "real" South Africa.

A couple of warnings if you plan to visit South Africa: be very careful if you land at the Johannesburg airport. Heed the airport announcement to be wary of anyone who is not an officially identifiable skycap. We were approached by two (unsuccessful) pickpockets. And our credit card number (not the credit card) was stolen; we suspect by the person who rented us a cell phone in the Joe-burg airport.

But neither of those experiences will deter us from a return visit. Our second trip begins in January, this time we begin at the beach and wine country around Capetown!