I came to La Manzanilla on Jalisco, Mexico's Pacific Coast from Washington, D.C. to learn to speak Spanish before heading off to grad school. And while my linguistic skills are still a work in progress, I stumbled upon one of the most remarkable places on earth: an undiscovered Mexican beach paradise where just over one thousand locals and, depending on the season, several hundred "foreigners" peacefully coexist surrounded on all sides by mountainous jungle, empty beaches, and oh yes, a crocodile estuary.

Only 45 minutes from Manzanillo (ZLO) International Airport and three and a half hours from Puerto Vallarta (PVR) International Airport, La Manzanilla remains a secluded and authentic slice of the Mexican tropics despite being easily accessible to "foreigners" from the United States and Canada. Whether they come for the complete Spanish immersion experience offered by a small but active Spanish school, the near-infinite number of breathtaking green and blue panoramic vistas, or some combination of both, visitors rarely leave La Manzanilla disappointed. In fact, more than a few "foreigners" have crossed over and become locals, some after only one visit to La Manzanilla. And it's not hard to see why.

Not only is the "Manana syndrome" very real, it's quite possible, dare I say likely, that it was invented in La Manzanilla, where time hardly exists for the locals (I challenge you to find a town in the Western Hemisphere with less working clocks) except to divide each day into the following monotonously peaceful routine: work, eat, siesta, work, eat, sleep, rise, repeat. Most visitors to La Manzanilla keep a slightly different schedule: Spanish classes, eat, siesta, beach, margaritas, margaritas, margaritas...

Offering Spanish classes daily, La Catalina Natural Language School makes a unique promise to students like me: to increase our Spanish fluency without teaching grammar or memorization. It's no surprise, then, that hundreds of grammar- and memorization-hating individuals and groups have descended on La Manzanilla to participate in La Catalina School's complete Spanish immersion experience. The school, started in 2003 by Victor Amezcua, a Mexican mathematician-turned-linguist, and Julie Catton, an American ESL teacher, offers one- to four-week classes for beginners, advanced students, and everyone in between.

La Catalina's School's customizable programs can include homestays with local Mexican families, volunteer opportunities in the community, and guided excursions to the serene beaches of Barra de Navidad, to the sacred volcanoes of Colima, to Mexico's safest big city, Manzanillo, and to other nearby attractions.

Unique among Spanish immersion programs, La Catalina School is sister to La Catalina Educational Foundation, a non-profit dedicated to improving the quality of life in La Manzanilla by raising the educational level of the local Mexican people. In addition to providing Spanish students with the tools to gain fluency quickly and easily, La Catalina School provides education, training and work opportunities to the Mexican community.

Nevertheless, after a full morning of class, Spanish becomes all Greek to me at about 2:00 pm. It's time to feed my brain. I'll stop by Mi Casita, a delicious and simple lunch stop by day, and owner Martha's personal kitchen by night, to grab a quick bite before she quits making her famous tortas (Mexican sandwiches) for the day. Or I might consider Lora Loca's, where the Mexican food is next-to-none, but the real draws to this palapa restaurant are the beautiful beachfront location and the fun-loving proprietor, "Crazy" Lora, who will cook up anything I ask for and even some things I don't.

Now if there's anything more real than "Manana syndrome," it's the Mexican siesta. So after lunch, I'll retire to my bed for a quick recharge. As a Spanish student at La Catalina School, I can opt for a homestay with a local Mexican family. Otherwise, I would ask Palapa Joe's Restaurant & Bungalows if one of their two big bungalows is still available. There are no bad locations in La Manzanilla, but these rooms are particularly well placed in the center of town. (I'd also tell you they're less than one block from the beach, but that shouldn't impress you. So is 90% of La Manzanilla.)

Already? It's time to rub the siesta out of my eyes and head over to La Manzanilla's sandy, smooth, and most of the time (incredibly!) deserted beach as it stretches for several miles around the scenic Bay of Tenacatita. From the lush, steep mountains with rocky outcroppings in the foreground to a whole lot of water, mountains and sky in the distant background, I could spend all day with my eyes glued to the bay's majesty without much difficulty. The actively inclined can explore the bay: kayaking, horseback riding, surfing, snorkeling and sailing are just a few of the available distractions. The sunburn disinclined can enjoy La Manzanilla's indoor activities including cooking, arts and crafts, yoga and dance classes. And don't forget to say hola to the close to 200 American crocodiles living in the estuary at the edge of town.

Be sure to return to the beach in the evening for a La Manzanilla sunset. While "foreigners" end every day soaking in the moment when the sun disappears below the water, it's practically a non event for the locals. They know the mythical green flash lives here 365 days a year