France's second largest metropolitan area, Lyon, is a true gem in France's trove of treasure. Nestled in the South-East of France in the Rhone-Alps region, Lyon boasts everything that embodies France and more. Lyon has been a fundamental gateway between north and south since Roman times. As soon as you arrive, you sense a southern pace of life. Crowds are not as chaotic as they are in Paris and the sun shines more here than in the capital. Any wandering tourist will be cast under Lyon's spell.

All it takes is a meander through Lyon's geographical and historical centre point to be able to breathe Lyon's soul. This is known as the Presqu'ile (literally, "Almost-Island"), a peninsula between the rivers Rhone and Saone. It is here you will find one of Europe's largest public squares, La Place Bellecour. This should be a sightseer's first stop when visiting Lyon. Not only do the 18th century buildings in Florentine colours and the flower stalls that flank the plaza paint a picture of a bona fide French city, but you will also find a big pavilion here hosting Lyon's main tourist office.

To the west of the plaza, Fourviere Hill looms impressively over the renaissance buildings of Old Lyon (Le Vieux Lyon). The striking rococo work of art, the Catholic basilica, Notre-Dame de Fourviere watches over the city like a queen over her people.

I first arrived in Lyon as an exchange student, there to complete my French major at Jean-Moulin University. Straight away, I was captivated. Lyon captured the essence of all things French. My first impressions were lasting and while university taught me the language and the history, I soon learnt that the best way to appreciate French culture was to live it and see it first hand.

I was amazed to discover the abundance of places to see and things to do in Lyon. To start with, in recognition for its rich cultural legacy, the city was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1998. The renaissance areas of Saint John and Croix-Rousse areas share an aspect unique to Lyon. It is here you will find the traboules. These are narrow passageways that were originally used by silk manufacturers and other traders as short cuts to transport their goods throughout the city. They later served as the backbone to the French resistance movement during the Second World War.

They say a "true Lyonnais" is someone who can navigate the traboules. This wasn't quite the case of my host-mother who hap-hazardly took my friend and I on "un grand tour" of the Croix-Rousse and got us lost. With good intentions in tow I can easily say we had a great time exploring the narrow and winding alleyways. However, the same couldn't be said about finding our way back. So to those wishing to see these historic passages, take a guided tour. These can be arranged by the Office du Tourisme in the Place Bellecour for a very reasonable 9 a head. Money well spent.

Lyon also boasts a multitude of museums, almost all of them worth a visit. If time-restrictions apply, two that stand out above the rest are the fine arts museum, the Musée Des Beaux Arts and the Museum of the Gallo-Roman civilisation. The first of these showcases the country's largest and most important collection of fine art in the country after the Louvre. Housed in the 17th century Palais St-Pierre, a former Benedictine convent for the daughters of nobility, this museum exhibits an impressive collection of antiquities. There is also a wide array of sculptures, paintings and drawings. From Rodin and Bourdelle to Delacroix, Dégas and Picasso you would be hard-pressed to not find something that doesn't interest you here. If you want to beat the mad crowds of the impossibly navigable Louvre, yet still see art of equal quality, this museum is a must-see.

The Museum of the Gallo-Roman civilisation is a truly culturally enriching experience. I had no proper appreciation for the scope and magnitude of the Roman Empire until I visited this museum. Roman artwork, weapons, coins and other artefacts are housed in a museum set right amongst the ruins of former Lugdunum, capital of Gaul (founded in 43 B.C.). The remarkable thing about this museum is that it is located on the site of the Roman theatre and Odeon, offering a panorama of private and public life in ancient Lyon.

To understand why Lyon is known as the "city of light" you have to be there for the 8th of December. This day marks the Festival of Light, the day where the people of Lyon place candles in their windows in homage of the Virgin Mary. A tradition that originated 150 years ago and now attracts thousands of visitors to Lyon each year. This occasion has become a major event for spectacular lighting displays, spotlighting main monuments and sites throughout the city.

It is also the one time of the year when the usually highly convenient metro and bus system the city has to offer is rendered virtually useless. This is probably a good thing as there is far more to appreciate by walking. Ensure you bundle up warm and wear comfortable shoes and you will be set for the evening. A highlight for children is always the giant Ferris wheel that is erected in front of the Place Bellecour each year, not to mention the delightful candyfloss and crepes on offer on street-side stalls.

Lyon has a reputation for being the French capital of gastronomy. You can find quality food just about anywhere in this city with more restaurants per square foot than anywhere else in the world (not to mention the splendid food markets).

Then again, if you are looking for authentic cuisine lyonnaise then Rue Merciere is the place to be. A quaint cobble-stoned pedestrian street a short walk away from La Place Bellecour and tucked behind the avenues that border the Saône, here you will experience wall-to-wall cafes and restaurants that will spoil you for choice.

At night, this street is particularly charming, absolutely full of people, rich with colour and complete with smell of cooking hanging in the air. It is a haven for gastronomes and gourmands alike. The seafood restaurants sport their live crayfish in tanks on the street like market vendors and another restaurant advertises their sumptuous lapin a la cocotte by flaunting a nice plump hare outside their door.

Cruel it may sound but it has to be seen to be believed that when you walk down Rue Merciere you feel as though you are have been transported through time. The street has a medieval feel to it, warm lighting, merry music and isolated from the hustle and bustle of motor traffic. Somehow, you don't think of the rabbit in its hutch as your soon-to-be main course, it simply adds to the authenticity and the charm of the place.

Romance, cuisine, red wine, art, architecture and history. Lyon has it all. With all that this incredible city has to offer, I can't understand why it lacks the popularity that places like Paris and Nice have. Although, I guess this is in part is what makes the city magical. It's like an undiscovered secret waiting to spill its riches to those of the world who wish to know. It's a chance to see that there is more to France than the Eiffel tower. Lyon exudes an atmosphere of vitality and joie de vivre where the people are down-to-earth, the food is to die for and the culture and history has more depth and character than mulled Beaujolais wine on a cold winter's night.